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FrozenGate by Avery

What lights do you have?






Coleman 144 lumen.

Stanley Fat Max 10 Watt "2000 lumen" is more likely 1400 lumens comparing to light bulbs.

Tons of keychain likes.

Some 225 lumen china light for $12 that is actually really bright.

That's pretty much it.
 
Just tried out, and sold an Impalent DDT40.

An otherwise excellent small light, with one unforgivable flaw. From the four main LEDs (it has four front facing xml2u3, and two side xpl for flood) it always, always starts on turbo.

I must admit the voltage and temperature display were handy. The compass function didn't seem to work, but the remote was a nice touch. Although the modes accessed by remote were different from the ones accessed by the light, and the light has to be turned on at the light itself first, before the remote ca be used.

Also despite some marketing showing all six LEDs lit up, this is not possible with the actual light.

All in all, it's a nice, but gimmicky light... until UI issues are resolved I would stay away from it.
 
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Yeah for some reason I don't know why manufacturers like the modes to start on the brightest. The good ones I have (Fenix and Nitecore) ramp up from the lowest to highest and has mode memory.
 
I have a crappy light that has mode memory but only lasts 30 seconds.
 
djQUAN said:
Yeah for some reason I don't know why manufacturers like the modes to start on the brightest. The good ones I have (Fenix and Nitecore) ramp up from the lowest to highest and has mode memory.
Click to expand...

Especially on this light it was mind boggling. I mean it has a LCD display with voltage readout, compass, temperature, ~20 different mode settings, and even a freaking remote control. To not have that super basic feature of just turning on in the same mode it was turned off on, it's just so asinine.
 
NITECORE TM26 3800 Lumen Flashlight

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djQUAN said:
Yeah for some reason I don't know why manufacturers like the modes to start on the brightest. The good ones I have (Fenix and Nitecore) ramp up from the lowest to highest and has mode memory.
Click to expand...

Its a UI preference. Tactical users tend to WANT the light to come on at max output. Everyone else, typically, HATES that, and wants it to come on low, and let them ramp up as needed.

I have many of both...and, as long as you know what you are buying ahead of time, it should not be an issue.

So, if I have lights that come on at high, I grab them when that amount of light is what I want at that time.

If they'd come on too bright...then, its the wrong light.

:can:
 
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I have a tactical Nitecore MH12 as allday-light with 1000 lumens, 232 m,13500 cd, 520 h 0 m / 21.67 d and USB charging.
Might buy a headlight for running, but not sure which yet..
 
Wi-Fi-connected LED bulbs, such as those from Connected by TCP, can be operated from a smartphone. Taking it a step further, platforms such as Philips Hue and LIFX combine red, green, blue, and sometimes white LEDs to produce millions of colors, from bright purples to daylight whites. Most offer stand-alone, plug-and-play functionality, so you don't need to buy into a larger connected system. Integrate them into an IFTTT (if this, then that) recipe and their colors automatically adjust to suit, say, the weather, the time of day
 
Alaskan is there any corner of your house that doesnt have a flashlight handy:)
 
I have a lot of lights too, I want to do some custom builds in this area also, I really like the deep reflector throwers and I would love to do a large Recoil style thrower where the diode fires into a deep flat reflector, but heat sinking will be creative. It will probably be a large build. Multi diode lights...I love them but they are under driven, more efficient emitters will be awesome and they will come in time, not because of battery life, but because of byproduct heat.
 
Ha, I only have one TK75, that is just a photo I found on the net.
 
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