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FrozenGate by Avery

What driver to use for a 6x build

trever22

trever22

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I just purchased a hotlight kit from Mohrenberg and I will probably make a 6x build out of it. I wasnt sure what driver I should use though, I know o-like has 1 or 2 that will work I think. But I didnt really want to spend the money for a flexdrive but if I have to I will. So should I buy a flexdrive or will the o-like driver work?
 





If You use 2 CR123's You can use a liner driver, and that's what O-like sells if memory serves Me. You can get drivers stateside to avoid the long shipping time. Aixiz/stonetek and others.
 
The hotlights will take an 18650, so it should then hold 2 CR123's. 3 AAA's won't power a liner driver as it need more than 4.5 volts.
 
Your are wrong Sir as I have a hotlight, and I'm using an 18650. Read further into the sales thread and You see where Moh confirms that an 18650 does fit.
 
Ok I am wrong sir, But since I am wrong you must be right about what driver I should use ;)
 
If You don't want to shell out the coin for a Flex or microboost your only choice is a liner driver like a rkcstr. Aizix sells a two pack for cheap, and they will hit Aprox ~420ma. For more current you could build your own DDL.
 
Also in some builds they use the three AAA holder but go with higher power rechargables- either all three(~11vdc) or with a 'spacer' or soldered jumper and just two-~7.2v

AixiZ sells the same inexpensive( two for ~6$) driver that O-like has and super quick shipping-'Vaporizer' has been working with these and may have some solutions to make them work better.

hope this helps
hak
 
I need to EAT CROW. I mixed up the Holtlights with the Guidesman. You can try 2xCR2 that gives 6 volts, and might not be enough. You make be stuck with a boost driver after all.

SORRY:yabbem:

Or Len's suggestion on the rechargeables.
 
If you are building a 6X blu-ray with a rkcstr driver I don't think 2XCR2s is going to be enough voltage.

A 6X blu-ray diode needs ~5V then you have to add in the 2.25V the rkcstr driver needs that comes out to ~7.25V

My recommendation would be to spend the money on a microboost (or flex drive). That would give you the option to use a Li Ion 18500 or 22600. Or you could use 3XAAA primaries or 3XAAA NiMH.
 
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There are a few sites that sell blu-ray drivers that would work for a 6X... you're only going to be feeding it 160-180mA anyways so you don't anything fancy. I know O-like sells a 200mA boost driver that even has a button on it. All you'd have to do is remove the button and/or jump the button contacts. Easy.

3X AAA alkaline should be fine because that would put out 4.5V in series and should easily supply the max current for a 6X. You could use a rckstr or grove or other linear driver and use only 2X 10440.
 
LazyBeam said:
You could use a rckstr or grove or other linear driver and use only 2X 10440.
Click to expand...

I think 2X10440s would work but they are pretty small capacity, I don't think you'd get much run time. Figure when they are charged fully to 4.2V each, thats 8.4V total but the second you put a load on them, the voltage will drop immediately and you need a minimum 6.25V using a linear driver to run everything.

I'm not say it won't work, you just won't get that much run time before having to recharge your batteries.
 
I wouldn't recommend a linear driver because with 2 cells you can only get a max voltage of ~7.4 on a full charge. If you have the original 3xAAA battery holder from the host you could use three 3v 10440s in it which would give you ~10.8v which would be under the 12v max of most drivers. The down side is 10440 batteries have a low capacity.

Personally I'd use a flex/boost drive and either an 18500, 22600. Looking at DTR's mod for the 18500 if you leave the spring out you may be able to fit an 18650. I used one of drlava's microboot drivers for my 6x since he was out of flex drives when I ordered. You could use a flex drive too which would be a little easier to wire since it has a continuous ground between batt - and LD-. Remember if you use a microboost you'll need to run an isolated ground from the LD's case pin to batt - as well as lines from from the diode's + and - pins to the driver's +/- pads.

BTW that plastic pill looks like what's in the guidesman host. You can remove one of the ribs like I showed in my 6x build thread and it makes a nice cavity to stash your driver in since heatsinking the driver isn't needed for for the ~170ma you'll be using.
 
I've done a few microboost builds with blurays and i've never wired anything to the diode case pin. I always just wired the - input of the microboost to the heatsink itself. I never trusted using the diode case pin as a contact because in my builds that use aixiz modules, I usually coat them in thermal grease before installing them in the heatsinks. In direct press heatsinks though that don't use aixiz modules.. It is a convient source for the - input to the driver though. But I still don't see why you would need an isolated connection from the case pin to the battery - though. Unless you were using a non-metal host.
 
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