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water resistant arctic?

LaserRX

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WAIT!

Sorry for the excitement, but that vid is of the Spyder II NOT the Spyder III. I don't want people ruining their lasers thinking that the Spyder III is water proof.

The Spyder III is indeed water resistant, meaning if you are out in the rain nothing will happen. The threads are beefy and the battery cap and lens cap does fit together quite snug. However there are no o-ringsl, and is not water proof. It is even advertised as water resistant, only the II's were advertised as water proof.

The Spyder II had o-rings and was desgined to be submerged, as was the photonic disruptor.
 



Prototype

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As stated before, we know those aren't Spyder IIIs, they're Spyder Is, they don't have the right shape to be anything else.
 

LaserRX

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That's pretty amazing, but I'll say again it is not water proof. Things fit together rather snug, but there are no o-rings...he got lucky imo. On a side note, that seems like dirty water, if you have swapped out the stock lens with an AR one or some other modified lens... you would not want that water on it. At any rate even the stock glass will likely be covered in residue, maybe permanently smeared. :/
 

Blu lase

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Well I definitely wouldnt have done that.. But i guess he did buy 4 arctics.. And he was under the impression that they were water proof..

Blulase
 

RA_pierce

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The tail cap of the Arctic will leak.
In other words, it is as waterproof as your cell phone in a paper bag.

Waterproofing a laser is only useful for a laser that is to be used for diving or for use outdoors in wet conditions.
Submerging a laser will dirty the window and distort the beam.
Waterproofing a laser is pretty useless unless you are Aqua-Man or if you spend a lot of time playing with lasers at Sea World.

It is a nice feature to have if you want to play outside in the rainy season, but other than that, I can't imagine a situation that would call for a water proof laser.
 

bbshamsa

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I wouldn't have thought machining a simple groove the same radius as your chosen o-rings, at the aperture cap end and battery cap end would be more than a 5 min job. Then, you could simply epoxy the safety pin in place, making that water tight. as well as the 2 contact pins on the other side; losing the safety feature in the process, of course. I think there is a bigger issue though. Isn't the host body made up of 2 seperate parts? The front half looks to be seperate from the rear half, pressed together. That would be a nightmare to waterseal cleanly.
 




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