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FrozenGate by Avery

Want to make own 445nm blue laser pointer - Convoy S2+ host

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I find out that couplings for stepper motors are good idea for heatsings. ID: 12mm, OD: 20mm, and with locking screws. I need to check this options too. 😁
 
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¸¸¸ said:
I had also purchased four 5W 447nm Osram diodes, I wanted to build a laser pointer, but I chose a driver that was not suitable, in fact, not understanding anything, I burned one of the four diodes, I returned the drivers, and now I only have four diodes new Osram 5W 447nm.
Perhaps it is better to dismember ready-made pointers and extract the module complete with driver, diode, electrical cable connections.
Starting from 0 is not easy.
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You sometimes have to learn from your mistakes..
I am curious though how the seller let you return the drivers even though they weren't correct? You can in most cases adjust the driver to work with your diode.
A 5 W diode will take what ever Amps you throw at it I believe.
Edit: maby 5A max.
 
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What is good yellow laser diode ? If this "model" will work perfect, my next must have laser pointer is yellow color 😁
 
patrykz103 said:
What is good yellow laser diode ? If this "model" will work perfect, my next must have laser pointer is yellow color 😁
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The laser addiction has began:)

Yellow lasers that are affordable will only be from 10mW to maby 50mW?
It will either come as a complete module thats ready to drop in a host or a complete build. They are way way cheaper to buy than 2 years ago.
As far as I know they are DPSS lasers and there is no direct yellow diode?
 
Correct. No diode yellows yet. The current yellow DPSS wavelengths that are accessible are 573, 589 and 594nm. 594nm is currently the cheapest option and its a beautiful amber colour. Next is 573nm which is a truer yellow with a slight green tint. Highlighter yellow. These are semi affordable from Tinker Tavern. 589nm used to be easier to obtain, but you can still get modules from CNI and CNI retailers like Dragon lasers.
 
Those modules you are using are nickel plated brass. I have only rarely used those as pure copper ones work much better. All my lasers that I built use copper modules. I have used the brass ones for other people's builds when requested.
 
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Right now i tested couple projects of heatsinks for Convoy S2+ (printed on 3d printer) and have performed the individual project to make heatsink in aluminium - for testing - and looks like this:
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Right now, Im waiting for all parts to build this up. I have S2+ flashlight, and based on this i make project, which someone in my country made this for me for some $ on lathe. I will post more steps in future, maybe someone will be intrested in.
 
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I've got some S2+ heatsinks and drivers if you want
Driver 4.2vin, 6vout, 1-2A adjustable
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patrykz103 said:
Nice, do you know thread size in S2+ ? This in head of S2+.
I can figured out, its not M22x1,5.. It is something between M22x1 and x1,5.
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Can you draw a sketch of how you plan to build it.. That will help alot for members to answer'
Not sure where you want to thread on the host. The head piece of your Convoy S2 should be what holds down the heatsink. You can tap the side of the heatsink with any small tap to use a set screw to lock down the module. 4-40 or 6 -32 would be good.

They do sell cheap thread gauge testers, The ones that are flat stock and swing out with different pitches.

Like member Paul mentioned, since your using a brass module you will have to be careful on your duty cycle..
 
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GSS said:
Not sure where you want to thread on the host. The head piece of your Convoy S2 should be what holds down the heatsink.
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I mean, this thread which i screw in brass driver "holder", I dont know what type of threadd is this. I know only it it trapezoid thread, but size?... I dont know. Something between M22x1 and M22x1,5. My idea is to make on lathe something like retaining ring to hold heatsing in place.
 
If I think what your mentioning is right, I would have your friend with the lathe take a little bit off the heatsink width to where the front part of your Convoy host will slide over it. I'm guessing its still 25mm like you bought the stock.
Thats how the majority of these flashlight hosts are modded for lasers.
Holding the 12mm brass module in you will need a set screw thats short enough to go a little below that heatsink width so theres no interference with the front piece of the host that we are talking about.
 
I'm at a loss.
What is this 3D printing about? You 3D printed molds in plastic of some type and saw that they fit?
Why not turn down your heatsink so the front will fit instead of buying a tap and thread?

Any ways, hope it works out.. Good luck.
 
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