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FrozenGate by Avery

Uniphase 2114P-40MLA & 2214-40MLA Argon Ion Laser






pschlosser said:
The supply is there, the demand is not. I still have five left from my last batch of PSU controllers for the JDSU 2110 PSU.

The style shown in the pictures is without displays or enclosure to keep costs down. One must use their DMM for the output display.
Click to expand...

Very nice, how much were you selling these for? Looks like I don't have to spend my time making remotes now, yay!

norbyx said:
Please post pics of the laser head to see what it is...
Click to expand...

headzf.jpg


Note my little autotransformer to step up the 120V mains to 240V for the fan. I have a nicer enclosed stepup coming in the mail which can interface to the nice 220V plug without the use of aligator test jumpers. Yes I cut the styrofoam support for the argon with my CO2 laser, hehe.
 
pschlosser said:
The supply is there, the demand is not. I still have five left from my last batch of PSU controllers for the JDSU 2110 PSU.

The style shown in the pictures is without displays or enclosure to keep costs down. One must use their DMM for the output display.
Click to expand...

I don't remember these being offered
Whatcha gettin' for 'em?

Peace,
dave
 
Well the head unit looks a lot like mine (incoming), as for the rest of the parts I think you did a great job in building them.
 
I'm asking $60/each. I'll even pay for shipping, if the destination is within lower 48 US.
 
I confirmed it with Sam (from repairFAQ) that running the tube in current mode presents no measurable level of stress on the tube over light mode for hobbyist purposes. That isn't to say that is always the case, just that with THIS tube on THIS power supply, there is nothing to gain running it in light mode over current mode. It would appear though that due to the increased noise when set to Idle, that idling may be worse than running at the lowest current which does not produce noise (about 5.2A).
 
Sigurthr said:
I confirmed it with Sam (from repairFAQ) that running the tube in current mode presents no measurable level of stress on the tube over light mode for hobbyist purposes. That isn't to say that is always the case, just that with THIS tube on THIS power supply, there is nothing to gain running it in light mode over current mode. It would appear though that due to the increased noise when set to Idle, that idling may be worse than running at the lowest current which does not produce noise (about 5.2A).
Click to expand...

Ok so let me get it straight it is better to run it in current mode than in light mode.... Since idle in light mode produces less "stressful sound" than in current mode?
Just trying to learn since my Argon will be here soon.....
 
Idle mode is the same regardless if it is set to Light or Current - Idle overrides the other settings.

Light mode engages a noise reduction loop that prevents stress to the argon tube.
Current mode has been tested to produce negligible noise above a minimum current point, but no better than Idle mode below this point (on mine it is 5.2A).

If you cannot test your equipment to check it for harmfull oscillations use Light mode (better safe than sorry!). If you can test it or if you have equipment confirmed to not suffer from damaging oscillations in current mode then there is no harm of running it in curren mode as long as you don't run it below where it wants to be happy (the situation mine is in).
 
Even if you can check, there's no way to be sure it won't start up a few moments later.
 
it is my understanding that when the laser is turned on and and begins lasing, running it in light mode is hard on it, because the laser output and operating temperature have not stabilized, and as such, the PSU must chase the output level. However, running it in current mode (at startup) allows the PSU to stabilize much faster without the need for a bunch of correction.

I read some documentation that said when the laser begins emitting output, the power supply spikes up to max current, and then slowly falls back to the current set-point (on the remote) within a 1 or 2 second time-span.
 
I read something to that effect as well. I do know that running at too low of current to where the arc pinches and sputters is terribly bad for the tube so it is best to always start the tube at a higher current. I would think that this pertains to both modes though.
 
The PSU has to chase the output level either way. It chases the light setpoint by adjusting the current. It chases the current setpoint by adjusting the current. It's called regulation. The power supply is designed to do this - it is not hard on the power supply.

It is, however, hard on the tube to start it, since bits of the cathode are blown off with every strike of the arc. This will happen in either mode.
 
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Nicely done.

My brain is fried right now

I can't pull up who had it, but recently we dealt with another of the "gold" PSU's that didn't follow the pinout shown in Sam's. :(

I'll work on pulling that one up
We can compare the full model numbers to see if we can find a clue

+1

Peace,
dave
 
I use a "gold" one that matches the pinout :thinking:

What does the power meter in the head read? I would trust that meter more than a thermal meter.
 
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