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FrozenGate by Avery

Ultimate Aixiz Heatsink

Joined
Feb 1, 2007
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It gets no better than this. Machined and mirror finished from T-6 grade Aerospace Aluminium. I added some cooling fins to increase the surface area and aid cooling.
The bore is a very snug "Transition" fit , so the Aixiz module can easily be pressed out again, should I need to swap out. I made this for my upcoming 405 labby burner. (thanks Dave) ;)

I have been running one of Greg's closed can diodes at 420 mA for almost 150 hours in one of these with no problems. The weakest link in the chain is actually the aixiz module itself and its ability to transfer heat into the heatsink from the diode, but by completely encasing the whole module into the heatsink, I guess this is as good as it gets.

Jase.


Pics:
 

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Transition fit of the module, the length is exact.

Jase.
 

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it could be better...Cu, maybe? It would be quite heavier however it would provide superior heatsinking ;) Ok small rant over, very nice and much more usable due to the lighter weight of alu against copper.

You make em yourself?


brtaman
 
Aye. Copper is superior to ally in terms of heat transfer, however it is heavy, expensive and is a pain to machine. It is also a very reactive metal and tarnishes easily.

Aluminium is a wonderful metal to machine and can be highly polished. It will self oxidise and protect itself from corrosion and is as light as feather.
And yep, I made it myself.

Jase.
 
No. Thank you, Tallaxo. My 300mA "experiment" awaits ;)

Peace,
dave
 
Nice, you plan on "mass" producing them for the LPF market? :)



brtaman
 
do want! how about copper that's treated or coated with something to prevent tarnish?
 
VillageIdiot said:
do want! how about copper that's treated or coated with something to prevent tarnish?
You can always use a clear lacquer to prevent the build up of oxide salts. But apart from colour, there really is no need to choose it over ally for the sorts of power a diode will radiate.

But I have to agree, a polished copper heatsink would look kinda good :)

Jase.
 
brtaman said:
Nice, you plan on "mass" producing them for the LPF market? :)



brtaman


Sadly not. A full time job , wife and 2 kids prevents that , soz.

Jase.
 
Of course, I can imagine the added responsibility of two kids and a wife (especially the wife) I was just a bit curious/hopeful :) hehe

Yeah your right though on the polished copper looking fine, there is just something about the color/tone of copper before it starts to tarnish.


brtaman
 
Tallaxo said:
Sadly not. A full time job , wife and 2 kids prevents that , soz.
Jase.

Frivolous distractions!

Get you priorities in order, Man!

Peace,
dave
 
I think aluminum is better for this. Copper, as a big chunk of metal (not tiny little fins, which are superior to aluminum fins) is GREAT for sucking up heat, but has it's own problems. It has a huge capacitance for heat, which can work against it. Aluminum cant hold as much heat as copper, and therefore disperses it to the air faster. Whereas copper (in a big chunk, like this one) can soak in tons and tons of heat and therefore has a harder time dispersing it into the air, because it just keeps holding more and more.
 
GooeyGus said:
I think aluminum is better for this. Copper, as a big chunk of metal (not tiny little fins, which are superior to aluminum fins) is GREAT for sucking up heat, but has it's own problems. It has a huge capacitance for heat, which can work against it. Aluminum cant hold as much heat as copper, and therefore disperses it to the air faster. Whereas copper (in a big chunk, like this one) can soak in tons and tons of heat and therefore has a harder time dispersing it into the air, because it just keeps holding more and more.

Yup... copper will transfer heat great metal-to-metal but will have a hard time dissipating it to the air.  That's why the huge PC heatsinks made of copper like my Zalman use a crapload of very thin copper plates to give the greatest surface area while also having the great thermal transfer characteristics of copper.

Also, someone mentioned using a lacquer finish, which would work to prevent oxidation, but will need to be VERY thin otherwise it will insulate and cause it to retain even more heat, which is why they typically anodize aluminum for heatsinking rather than painting since anodizing is extremely thin.
 
How do you adjust the focus with is snug all the way inside of there? or do you just focus to infinity?
 
Well, you see the bit sticking out the front? That's the focusing ring. It's free (not in the heatsink), so it's easy to wind it and adjust the focus :)
 





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