jayrob
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I'm sure there are several different ways to modify these with a laser...
I would like to show how I did it!
This modification is done using the Playmates brand, 1994 Classic Star Trek Phaser... (stock #6118)
I found the perfect switch for this mod... And this tutorial is mainly on how the switch mounts to make this a nice clean build using a 3 volt supply with either a green module, or a red/blu-ray modification too! (with FlexDrive)
But I'll show two switch options for you!
Update: I have upgraded this green build to use the safety switch set up with stock trigger button shown in my 12X tutorial. I like it much better with this easy trigger activation, and safety switch too...
Note: With this build, using a 3 volt supply, the power to the green module (or FlexDrive), must come directly from your trigger switch. Or via the safety switch. Not from the sound board...
* Switch: (Mouser part # 612-TL1290AF500RR)
TL1290AF500RR E-Switch Tactile & Jog Switches
* O-like modules:
50mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=18
100mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=16
150mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=17
If building a red or a blu-ray mod, the heatsink set screw would be positioned in a different location on the heatsink. And you would mount a FlexDrive to power your diode from the 3 volt supply. (plenty of room) Other than that, the wiring will be the same as shown here for my green mod.
The other thing would be the use of a custom EzFocus adapter that would allow the focusing of a blu-ray (or red) mod.
See this custom 'cone tipped' EzFocus adapter on my 12X Phaser Mod shown here!
I have parts available in this FS thread - Click here!
I'll be showing my green modification in this thread... (balloon pop video at the bottom of this post)
I'm using a very stable, 100mW o-like module that is overpowered at 140mW's to 150mW's.
Very thin beam, good for lighting black tipped matches and popping balloons.
I really like how the drilled out nose cone glows green! The beam does not touch the sides, but the tip still glows nice and green...
The best features about this modification:
* Large heatsink
* Not having to move the stock board (because of my switch mod shown below)
* Nice sound (only two sound choices, but sounds better than the similar looking phaser from Diamond Select - IMO)
* Using 3 volt supply
Here are the pictures & details...
Switch Modification:
For me, it doesn't matter that the switch does not look like the stock switch. Because the 'feel' of this switch when you squeeze the trigger button is the best part of this build...
This switch has a nice spring inside of it, and when it activates, it has a nice little 'snap' to it. So you hear it click when you pull the trigger, and when you release it too. It's a very nice momentary switch!
That said, without my 'comfort cap' glued on, it does have a similar look to the stock button...
Another switch option:
If you want to use the stock trigger button, you could just set it up like this!
I am using this switch mod on my 12X build. It also has a safety switch installed. See here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/tutorial-12x-star-trek-phaser-mod-46886.html
Note: We know these switches are not rated for this application, but then again, they are used widely in green pointers and many other things...
This tiny belt sander is a priceless tool for this modification! Perfect for sanding the little plastic tabs that need to be removed to make room for the heatsink, and sanding the switch to size...
Hope you enjoyed this project!
Note:
One other thought on this mod...
I could easily make it fit two 14500's, and it would work the same. It would involve some slight modification of the battery compartment to fit the slightly longer batteries. And also to re-wire the way the batteries connect to each other, and the leads to the switch and negative connection.
Because I would set it up so that the two 14500's are in parallel. Doubling the capacity at 3.6/4.2 volts supply.
But I would have to use a 7833 (3.3 volt) regulator for the sound board and LED 'armed' indicator light...
I just wonder if it would be more capacity than the two AA's in series. :thinking:
Update/current draw:
I just measured the battery current draw (2 X Energizer e2 lithium primary - 3 volt supply) at 740mA's for the 140mW o-like module running simultaneously with the sound circuit.
Since the batteries are about 3000mAh's capacity per battery (which would mean about 3000mAh's at 3 volts in series), I should get about 2 1/2 to 3 hours of run time!
That's much better than 2 X 14500's in parallel. (which would be approximately 1200 or 1400mAh's - never the stated capacity)
After playing with it tonight for at least 30 minutes of total run time, I checked the power and it is still very steady at 140 to 150mW's!
So I will be staying with the 2 X AA e2 lithium batteries. And again, this is perfect for a FlexDrive blu-ray build as well!
Balloon pop video:
Just for the record, in the video, the beam looks like it is angled up a little. Because the camera is above the phaser. But as you can see from my beam shot picture at the beginning of this post, it is perfectly aligned...
Check out my 12X Star Trek Phaser Tutorial here!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/tutorial-12x-star-trek-phaser-mod-46886.html
Click here to see my list of projects and tutorials!
I would like to show how I did it!
This modification is done using the Playmates brand, 1994 Classic Star Trek Phaser... (stock #6118)
I found the perfect switch for this mod... And this tutorial is mainly on how the switch mounts to make this a nice clean build using a 3 volt supply with either a green module, or a red/blu-ray modification too! (with FlexDrive)
But I'll show two switch options for you!
Update: I have upgraded this green build to use the safety switch set up with stock trigger button shown in my 12X tutorial. I like it much better with this easy trigger activation, and safety switch too...
Note: With this build, using a 3 volt supply, the power to the green module (or FlexDrive), must come directly from your trigger switch. Or via the safety switch. Not from the sound board...
* Switch: (Mouser part # 612-TL1290AF500RR)
TL1290AF500RR E-Switch Tactile & Jog Switches
* O-like modules:
50mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=18
100mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=16
150mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=17
If building a red or a blu-ray mod, the heatsink set screw would be positioned in a different location on the heatsink. And you would mount a FlexDrive to power your diode from the 3 volt supply. (plenty of room) Other than that, the wiring will be the same as shown here for my green mod.
The other thing would be the use of a custom EzFocus adapter that would allow the focusing of a blu-ray (or red) mod.
See this custom 'cone tipped' EzFocus adapter on my 12X Phaser Mod shown here!
I have parts available in this FS thread - Click here!
I'll be showing my green modification in this thread... (balloon pop video at the bottom of this post)
I'm using a very stable, 100mW o-like module that is overpowered at 140mW's to 150mW's.
Very thin beam, good for lighting black tipped matches and popping balloons.
I really like how the drilled out nose cone glows green! The beam does not touch the sides, but the tip still glows nice and green...
The best features about this modification:
* Large heatsink
* Not having to move the stock board (because of my switch mod shown below)
* Nice sound (only two sound choices, but sounds better than the similar looking phaser from Diamond Select - IMO)
* Using 3 volt supply
Here are the pictures & details...
Switch Modification:
For me, it doesn't matter that the switch does not look like the stock switch. Because the 'feel' of this switch when you squeeze the trigger button is the best part of this build...
This switch has a nice spring inside of it, and when it activates, it has a nice little 'snap' to it. So you hear it click when you pull the trigger, and when you release it too. It's a very nice momentary switch!
That said, without my 'comfort cap' glued on, it does have a similar look to the stock button...
Another switch option:
If you want to use the stock trigger button, you could just set it up like this!
I am using this switch mod on my 12X build. It also has a safety switch installed. See here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/tutorial-12x-star-trek-phaser-mod-46886.html
Note: We know these switches are not rated for this application, but then again, they are used widely in green pointers and many other things...
This tiny belt sander is a priceless tool for this modification! Perfect for sanding the little plastic tabs that need to be removed to make room for the heatsink, and sanding the switch to size...
Hope you enjoyed this project!
Note:
One other thought on this mod...
I could easily make it fit two 14500's, and it would work the same. It would involve some slight modification of the battery compartment to fit the slightly longer batteries. And also to re-wire the way the batteries connect to each other, and the leads to the switch and negative connection.
Because I would set it up so that the two 14500's are in parallel. Doubling the capacity at 3.6/4.2 volts supply.
But I would have to use a 7833 (3.3 volt) regulator for the sound board and LED 'armed' indicator light...
I just wonder if it would be more capacity than the two AA's in series. :thinking:
Update/current draw:
I just measured the battery current draw (2 X Energizer e2 lithium primary - 3 volt supply) at 740mA's for the 140mW o-like module running simultaneously with the sound circuit.
Since the batteries are about 3000mAh's capacity per battery (which would mean about 3000mAh's at 3 volts in series), I should get about 2 1/2 to 3 hours of run time!
That's much better than 2 X 14500's in parallel. (which would be approximately 1200 or 1400mAh's - never the stated capacity)
After playing with it tonight for at least 30 minutes of total run time, I checked the power and it is still very steady at 140 to 150mW's!
So I will be staying with the 2 X AA e2 lithium batteries. And again, this is perfect for a FlexDrive blu-ray build as well!
Balloon pop video:
Just for the record, in the video, the beam looks like it is angled up a little. Because the camera is above the phaser. But as you can see from my beam shot picture at the beginning of this post, it is perfectly aligned...
Check out my 12X Star Trek Phaser Tutorial here!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/tutorial-12x-star-trek-phaser-mod-46886.html
Click here to see my list of projects and tutorials!
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