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Tutorial: 3405 Build Tips!

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No it's giving me ~500mw on 3XAAA primary batteries. I put the 18650 in without modifying the driver and it's much brighter. I'm not able to screw the tail-cap on or even start the threads it's just that the tail-cap is barely touching at an angle. :) Also the flexdrive isn't set to the highest jumper setting, if that's what you mean. I tried to disassemble the clicky/switch but no luck so it seems that it would not be possible to modify for the 18650 after all. I mean you could just get a short glimpse of the higher output beam, but it's not practical. Jay, I was hoping that we could get these to take an 18650. :)
 
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DTR

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Also the flexdrive isn't set to the highest jumper setting, if that's what you mean.

I was just wanting to see if you had your battery holder set up like mine.

Anyway do you think the 17500, 17670 or the 18500 would fit?
I saw these browsing on lighthound
AW 17500
AW 17670
AW 18500

obviously you would need something to center them in the host.
 
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Well, I haven't used those batteries in anything yet, so I don't know. I did get an 18650 to work after all, but I don't know if you could do it without destroying your host. I actually drilled out the plastic in the tail-cap very carefully and was able to pull out the plastic that surrounds the brass tip. It's a touchy operation. Then the brass tip slides off from a spring. Then I shaved the black plastic down from the top about 4mm and pushed it back in place. It doesn't come out easy because it's glued in place. Then I put in the 18650, being sure the clicky is turned off and screwed the tail-cap on and turned on the clicky. Nice bright beam. You have to have luck and patience to do it or you can ruin the host. I'm going to go to tap plastics and look for a sleeve to center the battery. Good luck if you try it, and I can't recommend doing it unless you are a really skilled DIYer. :)
 

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Millirad
I would be interested to see any pictures you have of how you did it and what it looks like if you have any.
Also did you find a good sleeve for centering the battery?
 

jayrob

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The 18500 would fit with out any modification except to use about an 8mm thick spacer on the negative end of the battery...

You could easily cut some plastic from a 2 liter bottle, roll it up, and us it as a 'adjustable size' sleeve to keep the battery from rattling...
 

DTR

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The 18500 would fit with out any modification except to use about an 8mm thick spacer on the negative end of the battery...

You could easily cut some plastic from a 2 liter bottle, roll it up, and us it as a 'adjustable size' sleeve to keep the battery from rattling...

Funny you say that I actually order an AW 18500 the other day and planned to bore out the 14500 dowel that Daguin sent with the 3405 from him. Since the batteries are the same length It should work great. But I am a more power kind of guy and would still like to see how to make an 18650 fit:eg:
 
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If you put the driver in the module grounded, pop out the pill, and somehow work a (+) spring in, you probably could pull it off.
 

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If you put the driver in the module grounded, pop out the pill, and somehow work a (+) spring in, you probably could pull it off.

I don't know if I would want to do away with the pill entirely on this particular unit since I am using such a large heat sink to drive it at 1.5A.
3405%20Flex%20Max%202.jpg


But there is still a lot of room above the pill. Maybe the pill could be move up a tad somehow.

Also wen looking at the tail-cap it seems to be wasting a lot of space.
tailcap.jpg

So I am interested the modification that Millirad did as well.
 

jayrob

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As long as the pill is tight to the host (path to ground), it will be fine...

You could even wrap the threads on the pill with aluminum foil so that it can be tight to the host with only a turn or two...

That would give you some room for the longer battery. That plus some tail cap modification, and it would not be too difficult to fit an 18650...

One thing to keep in mind. Some 18650 batteries have a flat top. So that is why most 18650 hosts have a spring, or a solder mound at the positive contact point. (board at the bottom of the pill)

So you may want to make a small solder mound to make sure there is no way a flat topped battery could short out on the pill...

L2P%205.jpg
 
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Ok, here is how I modded my host for 18650. If you look to the bottom right of the battery, you see a drilled into round piece of plastic. That plastic is "very" tough. I drilled a few "shallow" holes around the brass tip until I could pull the tip off of the spring. "Warning"- don't drill too deep or you will "ruin" the plastic clicky. Then I was able to eventually get a "bite" onto the round beat-up plastic piece that was glued to the sides of the tail-piece. After pulling it free(difficult because it's glued in), I used my dremel to shave about 4mm from the top(the part facing up). Then I just slid the plastic back over the spring and into the tail-piece. Make sure that the clicky is turned off and install your 18650 battery. Screw the tail-piece on and turn-on the clicky for your new brighter beam. Don't ruin your clicky in the process. Good luck!

4855584089_59d34d02da_b.jpg
 
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jayrob

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Hmmm... I guess they started gluing that plastic retainer in there huh?

I've taken a couple of them out in the past and they just unscrewed...
 
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Yeah, what could have been a slam dunk mod now requires a little risk to get done. I was just thinking, another maybe easier way to do it would be to slide some very thin brass shim with a slight radius into the space around the glued in plastic piece. Just move it around until all of the glue has been removed. Then pushing the clicky up from the bottom should free it up. And then remove the ~4mm from the top. It might need to be glued in again if it doesn't push in super snug like mine does. :)
 

DTR

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Millirad thanks for the idea.;)

I finally dove in and modified my 3405's to use a 18650. Took all of five minutes. All you have to do is take out the plastic retainer by using a drill to cut it out. Then put a blob of solder on the side contact point on the switch and press it in. It works great and the cap screws down to the perfect tight point.

tailcap.jpg

tailcap1.jpg



Here on the Clicky switch just put a blob of solder on the contact point(marked in yellow) for a snug fit and use something to press it into the tailcap.
tailcap3.jpg


And there you have it a perfect fit for a 18650 battery.
tailcap4.jpg
 
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Not bad. But I didnt have to drill the switch out. I pushed on the side of the button from the out side with a butter knife, and the switch popped right out.

Maybe they make them different now. I'm not sure.
 

DTR

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Not bad. But I didnt have to drill the switch out. I pushed on the side of the button from the out side with a butter knife, and the switch popped right out.

Maybe they make them different now. I'm not sure.

I have two and on the first one I tried with pliers to turn it and it was glued and would not come out without drilling. Then on the second went straight for the drill and it started turning as soon as the drill started to get into it. No glue on that one. Go figure.

Jay this would make a good mod offering for your 3405 kit.;)

Now if we could only find a quality 22650 for this host that would be incredible.
 
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jayrob

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I have two and on the first one I tried with pliers to turn it and it was glued and would not come out without drilling. Then on the second went straight for the drill and it started turning as soon as the drill started to get into it. No glue on that one. Go figure.

Jay this would make a good mod offering for your 3405 kit.;)

Now if we could only find a quality 22650 for this host that would be incredible.

Good job with that 18650 modification...

Remember that most 18650 batteries have a flat positive end, so you want to build up a little solder mound on the 3405 positive contact board at the bottom of the pill because the board is flat on these 3405's...
 




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