Training-lens/Nerf-device for Yob 445nm 1w

[KanoBox]

(sorry if this has been asked before, or if this is the wrong section)
:wave:
But recently i bought a 1-1.2w 445nm Yob laser And its an excellent laser,

something that I noticed was, who ever isn't used to the laser, get more
irritated to the blue light than those who are adjusted~

So im wonder if there is a way to "nerf" the laser for non-burning use?

I tried the single 18650 3.7v cell (since there are a rumor that it'd under power the laser to about 140mw), but when i tried it, wasn't able to power it~

The 2 juice cell(cr123a 3.7v) when drained do produce a weaker dimmer light, but that effect only last a duration of less than 60 seconds

While I was watching a video review (kofff... kiplay...) of a wicked lasers arctic laser
They had a "training" lens" which "decreased the power by 80%"
Is there such thing for that will fit this laser?

(if you have any other ideas on nerfing the laser, please say~)

I know safety glasses are important (i have a pair) but it impossible for me to buy a pair for everyone~ :tinfoil:

And I can't really afford a 2nd laser at the moment~ :undecided:
:thanks:


thanks for reading :3

 

[HIMNL9]

That "training lens" is just a neutral density (AKA "grey" ) filter ..... you can use photographic "stops" filters or ND1 filters ( just remember that photographic filters goes in "stops", and each stop is the power divided by 2, so 1stop = 50% pass, 2stop = 25% pass, 3stop = 12,5% pass, and so on ..... where instead ND filters goes logaritmically, so ND1 = 10% pass, ND2 = 1% pass, ND3 = 0,1% pass, and so on).

 

[KanoBox]

hmm im not really well in tune with the photography world :/
Can you help me find a source/keyword i can get either of the filters for a cheap price? :O
(so far ebay/google came up with things priced more than the laser itself D: )

 

[KanoBox]

actually i think i realized what you ment:
nd1 seems to quite rare/expensive
but if you type in nd2,nd3,nd4 u'll get the next lvl of blockage

i found an nd2 (1%)... what would that make the yob 445nm 1-1,2w equivalent to? :O
is this correct? :http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260713364373&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

(i still have no idea on the photographic "stops".... is there a specific keyword to search for?)
would this be it?(2stop): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330514012001&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

What would 6.25% of 455nm 1-1.2w be like?
(actually are stops stackable? o,o would a 2stop stacked on a 2stop make a 4stop?
or would it be like 25% of 25% >.< )

2 other questions~
It won't melt through correct?
and
are the filters cuttable/millable/sliceable so I can shape it into what shape needed?

thanks for responding :3

 

[Bionic-Badger]

Hemlock_Mike ran some tests on that "training lens" that WL provides. The thing is a complete gimmick and reduces the power of the laser by negligible amounts. I think HM's laser power was reduced by about 100mW from 750mW or so. That will not make the laser any safer, and be hardly noticeable to a viewer.

Also note that your laser is a Class 4 laser, meaning even the back-splash from diffuse surfaces is a hazard. Perhaps if people are "used to" the laser after previous exposure as you have noted their eyes are already damaged. Furthermore, even if you find a usable ND filter, where will that light be going? If it is absorbed, it might damage the filter, if it is reflected back, it may damage your laser. It'll probably do both.

For the safety of yourself or your audiences, first of all get some protection goggles. Second, the best way to reduce the output power is to provide the laser less current. If you can adjust the laser's driver that will be the best method, and the cheapest.

If you're hell-bent on getting a filter, see if stage lighting filters from Rosco can help you. Look at the response curves from the datasheets and see how much they attenuate your 445nm wavelength. They may degrade under such intense light however.

 

[KanoBox]

according to yob:Upon Receipt of your laser....DO NOT OPEN THIS LASER!!!!!!!!!!!!!! doing so WILL BREAK IT (I know how to open it without breaking it)

so that leaves driver modification out of the question :/
(also i wanted it to be something that i can do on the fly, not with a whole toolkit on hand~)

What i was thinking is.... next time my batterys are also almost out.... (and the light/beam is a whole lot dimmer) I'll check out the volts the batteries are out putting
And see if i can find the absolute lowest amount of volts my laser can run off of.
Then find a battery cell(s) that matches it (maybe with a resistor/circuit or custom case)

Anyone think that'd work? :O
(or any ideas that will help bring this into action?)

Thanks :3

 

[HIMNL9]

actually i think i realized what you ment:
nd1 seems to quite rare/expensive
but if you type in nd2,nd3,nd4 u'll get the next lvl of blockage

i found an nd2 (1%)... what would that make the yob 445nm 1-1,2w equivalent to? :O
is this correct? :For Cokin P series Filter ND2 ND 2 Neutral Grey - eBay (item 260713364373 end time Jan-27-11 00:22:30 PST)

(i still have no idea on the photographic "stops".... is there a specific keyword to search for?)
would this be it?(2stop): Lee 210, 20x24 2 Stop Neutral Density Lighting Filter - eBay (item 330514012001 end time Jan-30-11 13:09:19 PST)

What would 6.25% of 455nm 1-1.2w be like?
(actually are stops stackable? o,o would a 2stop stacked on a 2stop make a 4stop?
or would it be like 25% of 25% >.< )

2 other questions~
It won't melt through correct?
and
are the filters cuttable/millable/sliceable so I can shape it into what shape needed?

thanks for responding :3

Uhm ..... about these ones, and about almost all photographic ebay sellers, i see they just confused stops and ND and NG all together ..... those are NG (neutral grey) 2stops filters, NOT ND (neutral density) 2 filters (a ND2 filter left pass 1% of the light, so it looks almost totally black ..... a NG 2stops filter left pass 25% of the light, it looks dark grey)

The first link, the seller don't state the material, if is plastic is not good, if is glass is ok ..... the second one is a no-no, the description say "neutral density gel" , and at 1 / 1.2 W, gels have almost no life and melt discretely fast ..... you need glass filters.

And yes, stops filters are stackable as any other filters, and you just add the relative stops, so as example, if you place 2 pieces of 2stops filters one over the other, you get a 4stop filter (6.25% pass, at 1W it pass around 65mW, at 1.2W it pass around 75mW ..... maybe something less considering the filter reflections).

BTW, the 25% of the 25% is still 6.25%

And for the last question, yes, but for glass you need the help of an optician (they have cutters and grinders for glass, and the machine for the glasses lenses can grind pieces perfectly rounds, also if i don't know what's the smaller diameter, it depend from the machine ..... an alternative can be find a glass worker that can do small round holes in glass, and ask him for drill off two rounds from your filter (drills for punch holes in the glass uses normally "cup style" drill bits, that "cut away" a round part, not normal solid drill bits, so if for the optician is impossible to go to the diameter that you need, and you find a glass worker that have a drill bit that have the inside of the diameter that you need, this is the more easy way for get them)

 

[LSRFAQ]

If you really want to do this you need a chromium or aluminum or dielectric coated beamsplitter or ND filter. Your other choice is a "black" glass filter. The sheer cost of such devices is why wicked's is a fake. You also need to mount it at a slight tilt, say 5 degrees, so it does not reflect the beam back into the laser diode, which can in some cases, kill it. Plastic or gels should not be trusted in this application. The cokin filter uses a plastic film inside a glass disk, it may not last long.

TECHSPEC® Absorptive Neutral Density (ND) Filters - Edmund Optics

Mounted Color Filters - Edmund Optics

(actually a Edmund red or green glass filter might just do it, despite what the graph says, transmission will NOT be truly zero for a thin glass red or green filter)

http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/m2108.html

http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/m2108.html




Steve

 

[KanoBox]

thanks guys for responding :3

I'll submit a design/blueprints/part-list And I'll get your guys opinions before I build it :3

thanks~

 

[KanoBox]

hmm it actually seems to work pretty well :3

Found an used glass nd6 filter at a local goodwill
And shining the laser though it makes it less harmless than my 126mw dhgate greenie. (still brighter than over spec 20mw laser pen though)

And the glass appears to take more than 2 minutes of beam (i usually won't use it for more anyways)

Im in the middle of making measurements/calculations on the lens holder for meh yob 445. (based off the suggestion off the previous post... slanted... glass... etc.)

The guy was correct about it reflecting the beam. The beam that gets though its nearly harmless,
but reflected part of the beam seems to have more punch than the beam that get though (thus not harmless)

Anyone have any ideas on a "laser insulator" or something Thin that i can fit within a casing, That will suck up the laser(no reflect back @ diode), and can sustain 2minute+ of 100mw-700mw laser (without smoking, or melting)?