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FrozenGate by Avery

SXD Driver Advice

I use kester "44" rosin core solder, it's 63% Tin and 37% Lead which is what you want, it goes from molten to solid pretty much instantly once you remove heat, I have several soldering stations but on my bench here I am using a basic cheap temp controlled soldering station with a small point tip.

Try to set things up so that you can brace your hands against your workbench and use magnification and plenty of light to see well, when I was younger I could see the smallest detail unaided but now I have to wear reading glasses, it happens to most of us.
I use the same solder and have for years. They call it a eutetic blend....low melting point good flow. Reading glasses are not enough... cataracts unfortunately. I use magnification and various ways if stabilizing. Didn't you get something a T100 soldering iron?
 





You mean a rework station ?
I have one in my basement with a hot air wand but I like my heat gun better for extracting laser diodes from the high security blocks.....actually the 1st time I extracted laser diodes from one of the thick blocks I heated it with a blow torch, the trick is to keep it moving along the sides only and heat evenly, however the heat gun works well and some have said a toaster oven will also do the job which I expect it would, but for the blocks with a PC board that's soldered in I like my heat gun, for general soldering work any temp controlled iron with a decent tip will be fine.
 
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You mean a rework station ?
I have one in my basement with a hot air wand but I like my heat gun better for extracting laser diodes from the high security blocks.....actually the 1st time I extracted laser diodes from one of the thick blocks I heated it with a blow torch, the trick is to keep it moving along the sides only and heat evenly, however the heat gun works well and some have said a toaster oven will also do the job which I expect it would, but for the blocks with a PC board that's soldered in I like my heat gun, for general soldering work any temp controlled iron with a decent tip will be fine.
No, this TS100

Didn't you recommend it in a thread? You do reflow? Your talents never cease to amaze me. I have not tried that out yet. I have no idea how people solder the little components on our drivers. They are not smd or are they?

I was thinking about getting one of those Galalian magnifiers like surgeons use. All the others make you just about stick your nose in what you are soldering? I am going to be 69 on the 9th. Maybe I will give myself one as a birthday gift lol.
 
I haven't done any re-flow, just pulling parts, this 1000X scope/monitor is cool, I have one and you can record video to a micro SD card and use it to see tiny stuff you're working on.
 
No, this TS100

Didn't you recommend it in a thread? You do reflow? Your talents never cease to amaze me. I have not tried that out yet. I have no idea how people solder the little components on our drivers. They are not smd or are they?

I was thinking about getting one of those Galalian magnifiers like surgeons use. All the others make you just about stick your nose in what you are soldering? I am going to be 69 on the 9th. Maybe I will give myself one as a birthday gift lol.
50+ here same eye issues got a pair of these Watchmaker Magnifier work great (y)
for jobs where nose lol gets in the way have also 1 of these
20210407_103904.jpg
 
I don't remember that TS100 but I bought something similar that I'm not even using, I have a lot of unfinished projects.

No I sometimes use the magnifying glass on my helping hands and the little clip arms to hold parts I am working on or wear my reading glasses, but the little scope with monitor is handy........I should mount some articulated arms on the base for holding work but I am used to looking through glass, on my basement bench I have a big magnifier like this.
 
I don't remember that TS100 but I bought something similar that I'm not even using, I have a lot of unfinished projects.

No I sometimes use the magnifying glass on my helping hands and the little clip arms to hold parts I am working on or wear my reading glasses, but the little scope with monitor is handy........I should mount some articulated arms on the base for holding work but I am used to looking through glass, on my basement bench I have a big magnifier like this.
You know, I built a complicated 3rd hand using cooling hose components and magnets. Sometimes I think I should buy that inexpensive 3rd hand with the magnifying glass which is what I suspect you are talking about.

I do need a new soldering iron. I will probably get rid of the one I have and get the heat gun you have me the link to and some kind of soldering device. The one I have worked for awhile but the digital temperature is not accurate. Since I also use lead tin traditional solder, I don't need the high temp for silver.

Just not sure what to purchase... something light for sure.

Are you using a set of diodes for your dummy load. I think I told you that I am using SL high power one...I put a smile volt meter right on it. I find though that my readings are a little bit higher than I get with the clamp meter which I suspect is more accurate.
 
Naw I use a 1 ohm resistor or a decanned junk laser diode and an inductive meter but I know most here use the dummy load, it's probably the better way for most people, that and I fine tune with my LPM which I now need to replace, I am thinking I will either get a LaserBee A10 or a Sanwu

Yea I have a bunch of these that I still use, that and I make use of wood clothespins to hold small items.

SANY2066.JPG
 
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Naw I use a 1 ohm resistor or a decanned junk laser diode and an inductive meter but I know most here use the dummy load, it's probably the better way for most people, that and I fine tune with my LPM which I now need to replace, I am thinking I will either get a LaserBee A10 or a Sanwu

Yea I have a bunch of these that I still use, that and I make use of wood clothespins to hold small items.

View attachment 72253
I have two of those laser power sensors that everyone was talking about. I only am using one with a meter someone mae for me. It is really just a part that can be purchased. When I get a chance I can look it up....probably under a 100 bucks if that. I don't know what I paid for the second sensor I think ithey are the: 20C-A-1-Y. Let me know if you want to look into it. I can test the second sensor. It has not been used but stored.
 
Naw I use a 1 ohm resistor or a decanned junk laser diode and an inductive meter but I know most here use the dummy load, it's probably the better way for most people, that and I fine tune with my LPM which I now need to replace, I am thinking I will either get a LaserBee A10 or a Sanwu

Yea I have a bunch of these that I still use, that and I make use of wood clothespins to hold small items.

View attachment 72253
I found my LPM. Has rechargeable batteries. I have another one of these sensors if you are interested. No reason to just have it lying around.
20210408_014035.jpg

The LFP cells came today. Marked 32650 but actually 32700! Won't fit... return.

Measured the output of the 44 build. Only getting about 5400 to 5600 ma at 4.5 amps. I get the same with 3 cells using the ASC4500 driver. It will actually put out a bit more but I left it at 4.5.

This is with a G8. Will a G2 give me more power I wonder?
I have two of those laser power sensors that everyone was talking about. I only am using one with a meter someone mae for me. It is really just a part that can be purchased. When I get a chance I can look it up....probably under a 100 bucks if that. I don't know what I paid for the second sensor I think ithey are the: 20C-A-1-Y. Let me know if you want to look into it. I can test the second sensor. It has not been used but stored.
Dr
Naw I use a 1 ohm resistor or a decanned junk laser diode and an inductive meter but I know most here use the dummy load, it's probably the better way for most people, that and I fine tune with my LPM which I now need to replace, I am thinking I will either get a LaserBee A10 or a Sanwu

Yea I have a bunch of these that I still use, that and I make use of wood clothespins to hold small items.

View attachment 72253
I figured out the problem. I have been away been away from the hobby so long, I did not realize I had a 3 element lens on it. With a G2 or G8, I am getting over 7 which is what I want!
 
Ahh, that will do it, also a dirty lens can rob a lot of power, I use ZEISS LENS WIPES in the individual foil packs.
 
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The original maglite that Jayrob did for me is for 2 D cells.

2 Felong 32650 cells fit. I got an extension tube when I realized I should probably use 3 cells.

But I think 32650s are not exactly D size. I think D is more like 32600 because 3 cells don't fit.

Do you know if 3 32650s will fit in a standard 3 D cell maglite host?

2 32650s plus 1 26650 will fit because the 26650 will fit in the tailcap.

I need to find a replacement for the 32650s. I just found out that there was a 32600 but it was discussed....now there is a 32700! Those are the LFP cells I just got that are mislabeled as 32650 right on the cell. The company that I got them from did not even know.

I really have gotten to like LFP cells...but though you charge them to 3.65 V, they really hang out at the nominal V. And you can't cover discharge. It has a very flat discharge curve so you really cannot tell state of charge by voltage. For my 50 amp hour pack, I have a battery management system that also balances them. I have a solar charge controller...but no solar roll up panel yet lol. Got it for a satalite station. If I can find the Amateur Radio Field Day I can show you the antenna. It has a rotor that tracks satalites. I want to hit the ISS and talk to one of the astronaut dudes. He can tell me once and for all that the earth is not flat! Ever talk to a flat earther?

Maybe I should have Richard make a custom host for 32700s. 3 cells

Below is the number I was looking for!

20210409_040510.jpg



20210409_035210.jpg
Elevation Azimuth rotor dual band antenna

20210409_035240.jpg
IC 9700 radio for satalite work... before I made the 59 amp hour battery I borrowed two lead acid ones.
 

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Nice pics. :)

The 1st two numbers are the diameter and the following three numbers are the length.
18650 is 18mm wide and 65.0mm long.
18500 is 18mm wide and 50.0mm long.
 





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