It is the current regulating chip in the host that connects to the diode.
It also looks like you hooked the diode up backwards which mean your probably roasted it.
If you are referring to the pins, that looks like a mixture of..
* Alcohol pad cotton (tried to clean the area, but stupid ol' me failed to realize the material would stick to the wire)
* Plastic (from the red triangle thing)
* Plastic (from the wires -- not the shrinktube).
When the device is locked, either there is no current going to the positive and negative wires, or there is a very small ~3mW current. Originally I got the wires backwards (positive-to-negative and negative-to-positive, and quickly realized I got the pins wrong to which I quickly turned it off and went to google up a laser diode pin diagram). The device was only in this incorrect solder for about 7 to 15 seconds tops; I don't remember if I ever switched it to max power or not. But I corrected the soldering (pos-pos and neg-neg) and it the laser worked. (This is the first solder successful attempt I mentioned earlier.)
But I think it's still possible I might have fried the diode like that.
EDIT: And yes, if you have to ask, I was aware and careful of the heat the solder might send through the circuitry/wires. I tried my best to minimize iron contact time.. but you must remember, I'm n00b. Sure, I have replaced capacitors in LCDs (soldering involved), but that's just very basic and easy (and more than likely isn't as sensitive).
EDIT2: It takes 11.25 to ~11.3 revolutions of screwing the housing back in. Just mentioning this so I can look it up later as necessary.
EDIT3: 9.25 to ~9.3 revolutions for the external, user-changeable lens. The inner lens is glued from the outside to the housing, and I won't even bother or try to unscrew that. Might need to keep things as original-looking as possible. :X
The diode. Plastic is just plastic (no volatile function), but the diode is something else (actually does something).
