Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Sony 20x burners $24 at Newegg

ok, this is what my schematic looks like. I took it off the little circuit board (next diode is going to have the circuit on it, NOT that little board), and soldered it all together.
schematic.jpg


the multimeter read .336 A. which should be 336mA

I am probably doing it wrong, and would like to try that 1 ohm resistor way, because I've seen that used before, but I never figured it out or tried to use it. I am also probably going to buy all new components just for the heck of it. I'm thinking of buying from digikey. any suggestions?
 





Yes, that's another way to measure current going to the diode. And by the looks of the pic, you wired up your driver just fine. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
So I guess your LD really is dead. :'(
 
Abray said:
I am also probably going to buy all new components just for the heck of it. I'm thinking of buying from digikey. any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I just found a parts list from radioshack, the only problem is that they don't sell any 3 ohm resistors. :(
 

Attachments

Abray said:
ok, this is what my schematic looks like. I took it off the little circuit board (next diode is going to have the circuit on it, NOT that little board), and soldered it all together.
schematic.jpg


the multimeter read .336 A. which should be 336mA

I am probably doing it wrong, and would like to try that 1 ohm resistor way, because I've seen that used before, but I never figured it out or tried to use it. I am also probably going to buy all new components just for the heck of it. I'm thinking of buying from digikey. any suggestions?
Click to expand...

The diagram does look right, like chido said. One thing, you should be using 3.6 volt rechargable batteries. (RCR123) The CR123's are only 3 volts each, and this could be the reason for the 336mA reading.

I like Digikey, here are the parts that I always order:
LM317 - http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=LM317TNS-ND
Silicon diode - http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=1N4001DICT-ND
Cap - http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=478-1911-ND
Digikey has 3 ohm 1/2 watt resistors, but I got 1 watt resistors from here - http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=003-3

Just in case you didn't already know, the silicon diode and the cap, each have a negative and a positive lead for connection...
Jay
 
Oh yeah, forgot to mention about the batteries. ;D With the LM317 you have to use a power source that gives an output above 6v. But since you're using the MXDL, then just use the Rechargeable CR123s, just make sure they're protected batteries. ;)
 
Jay and Chido, thanks for all those parts! I'll probably order those when I earn some more money. I already did order 2 more drives, though, so all I need are those parts and now batteries.

also, thanks for that tip on the batteries! I can order the batteries and charger online right? because the CR123s that I'm using right now ARE only 6v, and I'm almost positive that I won't find them anywhere else than the local radioshack (which only has the 3v CR123's).
 
Gazoo said:
[quote author=Abray link=1202158967/180#187 date=1204335152]Gazoo, I went back and looked at the first page again, and I did find the part that explained the extraction process. It turns out that when I gave up on the completely closed one (now known to be IR), I had started on the correct one, in the CORRECT way!! With that knowledge, I have completely and (as far as I know) safely gotten it out!!!

and GEEZ this diode is tiny! I guess I always knew they were small, like 5 mm, but I guess I never actually realized how small it would be. If that makes any sense lol. This is the first diode I have ever harvested, and I'm extremely happy it was a success!!!
Click to expand...

Excellent! I will never forget when I got my first diode. It was from Ebay and I thought the same...how in the hell can something so small produce a powerful burning beam...I was truly amazed.  ;D

steelybob....contratulations on your extraction too. It is very easy with the Sony especially after you do the first one. I will continue to recommend this drive.
[/quote]
the only thing is now that i see how SUPER TINY those wires are i will be even more carefull the next harvest i do. i was very careful b/c i knew they were small but my god you have to use a microscope or a hell of a lupe to confirm they are even there lol. i will be posting pics of my build once i get over 20 posts... no point of whoring it up just to show more pics of the same stuff you guys have already done. thanks again for all your help gazoo and jayrob.
 
Abray said:
Jay and Chido, thanks for all those parts! I'll probably order those when I earn some more money. I already did order 2 more drives, though, so all I need are those parts and now batteries.

also, thanks for that tip on the batteries! I can order the batteries and charger online right? because the CR123s that I'm using right now ARE only 6v, and I'm almost positive that I won't find them anywhere else than the local radioshack (which only has the 3v CR123's).
Click to expand...

For the charger and batteries, DX will be the best price if you don't mind the 3 weeks for free shipping:
Charger: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.936
Batteries: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8683

If you wanted them faster, and didn't mind the extra cost, you could compare this price:
Charger: http://www.batteryjunction.com/tlunlichfor1.html
Batteries: http://www.batteryjunction.com/uf16340.html

Unless there was some other problem with your circuit, the low supply voltage was definitely the cause of the low current reading...
Jay
 
The IR is still stuck in, anyway to get it out without a hacksaw? Once I scratched the glue off the red it fell right out.
 
goldfingerfif said:
The IR is still stuck in, anyway to get it out without a hacksaw? Once I scratched the glue off the red it fell right out.
Click to expand...


just use a hacksaw to slit the metal a bit, then use pliers to gently peel away the metal from the diode. I salvaged 2 IR's in those heatinks quite easily.

@abray: make sure as jay said the metal heatsink tab on the LM317T isn't touching ANYTHING!!! Also, if you are using unprotected CR123's, make sure the smoke isn't from them venting, although the MXDL would probably be in flames if the batteries vented.

take pics, they are helpful, and don't hook up another diode to the MXDL until you find out why the first one died. also, are you sure the diode didn't die during extraction?


regards,

amk
 
amk,

I'm almost positive that the diode didn't die during extraction because the wires were still intact and everything looked good. But I guess that possibility is always there. As for pictures, I'll try to take some, but I don't know how much you guys are going to be able to see from them! everything it really smashed together!

as for the LM317, would it be safe and possible to put electrical tape over what's left of the heatsink to keep it from touching anything? I'm asking because I see a potential problem, the tape is if anything an insulator, and would cause overheating and melting of the tape and more problems....

But I have to ask, How do you guys make the circuits so small and nice looking? Trying my hardest, mine looks ugly.

also (lol more questions) what kind of wire do you use? I am using standard multistranded wire that is quite stiff and kinda thick. The problems is that the solder doesn't seem to want to stick to it, and I need alot to actually make ANY kind of sold. also, it won't bend without breaking solds. This is hard to deal with when trying to put all the wires in the MXDL as they don't bend easily and all the connections break. Should I be using a different type of wire?
 
Abray said:
amk,

I'm almost positive that the diode didn't die during extraction because the wires were still intact and everything looked good. But I guess that possibility is always there. As for pictures, I'll try to take some, but I don't know how much you guys are going to be able to see from them! everything it really smashed together!

as for the LM317, would it be safe and possible to put electrical tape over what's left of the heatsink to keep it from touching anything? I'm asking because I see a potential problem, the tape is if anything an insulator, and would cause overheating and melting of the tape and more problems....

But I have to ask, How do you guys make the circuits so small and nice looking? Trying my hardest, mine looks ugly.

also (lol more questions) what kind of wire do you use? I am using standard multistranded wire that is quite stiff and kinda thick. The problems is that the solder doesn't seem to want to stick to it, and I need alot to actually make ANY kind of sold. also, it won't bend without breaking solds. This is hard to deal with when trying to put all the wires in the MXDL as they don't bend easily and all the connections break. Should I be using a different type of wire?
Click to expand...

Wire makes a HUGE difference! The best wire I have found, was from a mouse cord that I no longer needed. The wires are very fine and flexible. I tried a CAT 5 cable, and even that is kind of thick. You can 'ream out' the aluminum threaded piece. That will give more I.D., thus, more room. Then, just put a piece of electrical tape along the inside of the aluminum 'reamed out' driver mount. Like half way around the inner wall. When you 'press' the driver board in place, make sure the LM317 is where you want it to be in relation to the tape...
Jay
 
jay, thanks!
I'll look around for some wire. actually, could I take a single thread from the multistranded wire or would that be TOO thin and flexible? and as for the threaded aluminum piece, I have already cut off the top with a hacksaw. I know, a little unconventional, but I don't have anything else to do it with. I guess I can position the LM317 right If I try hard enough, especially with that tip on the wiring!

thanks,

Alex
 
Abray said:
jay, thanks!
I'll look around for some wire. actually, could I take a single thread from the multistranded wire or would that be TOO thin and flexible? and as for the threaded aluminum piece, I have already cut off the top with a hacksaw. I know, a little unconventional, but I don't have anything else to do it with. I guess I can position the LM317 right If I try hard enough, especially with that tip on the wiring!

thanks,

Alex
Click to expand...

Single strand? Make sure what ever wire you use is insulated! About the hack saw, the threaded piece is wider at the top. That's so you can tighten it down when you screw it into the MXDL body. It also sets the correct distance for the battery compartment. But the getting it tight, helps for a good ground. So, hopefully you didn't cut it too low...
Jay
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top