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FrozenGate by Avery

Soldering questions

When it comes to soldering non-thru-hole components, I take a non-standard approach (and probably considered "improper" :p). Adapted mostly for SMT components, but works just the same for laser diodes if you're try to attach to a board since the pins aren't held in a hole. Instead of using the wire-feed-and-heat style, I just add some flux to the connections (I like my MG Chemicals flux pen!), then hold them in place in one hand (I typically clamp the board in something and hold the diode/module), take the tip of my iron and touch the solder wire to get just a tiny bit on the tip, then touch to the connection to allow it to flow and join them together. Trying to fit a solder wire in there with the tip of the iron as well isn't always easy, especially when you have to hold parts in tweezers, like the SMT stuff.

Flux is crucial in this method since the flux core of the solder is effectively already burnt off. I like using flux in any soldering just because it makes it so much easier and faster to get a good connection, especially if there's any oxidation or coating on the PCB's pads.

Like I mentioned, a really handy thing I've found is this flux pen:
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=6610307&MPN=835-P

There are probably others out there, but that's the one I have. It is very convenient because it is a liquid, so you can just dab on a light coat quickly with the tip and solder. Then, if you want to clean it off (it is considered "no clean"), pick up a bottle of 91% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol from the store and use an old toothbrush; takes a few seconds to scrub and rinse... pat dry :D

Also, as Senkat mentioned, using solder paste is a good alternative as well since it has flux and solder premixed and in a convenient semi-liquid state. You'll need a way to accurately apply (I use a syringe with a short, blunt tip) and also be sure you either melt ALL of it or clean off excess afterward, otherwise you risk shorting something out if it gets somewhere it isn't supposed to be.
 
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I've been soldering for over 25 years on an almost daily basis.. and the
best way to ruin a high quality clad tip is to scratch its surface with a
hard metallic object.
The Weller tips we use in the shop have a life expectancy of (minimum)
a full year before we need to replace them..

We leave the solder on the tip after doing a solder joint... and only just
before making another solder joint do we clean (with a moist sponge) and
re-tin the iron's tip..
wink.gif


BTW.. we use .020" dia. Rosin core Kester or MultiCore Solder...


Jerry
 
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to solder a driver to a diode pin (i have the PHR-803t and both micro and flex driver) ; do i just need Rosin Core solder or do i need something else to solder them together?
 
I've been soldering for over 25 years on an almost daily basis.. and the
best way to ruin a high quality clad tip is to scratch its surface with a
hard metallic object.

I'm not suggesting scraping or scratching anything. If you have a spanner or something with nice soft edges, all that happens is that the solder on the tip will freeze onto its surface taking the dirt with it. Since they are usually made of steel, solder wont adhere to it and you can basically wipe it off.

If you have a soldering station there is no need for this kind of trick since it will come with a sponge and as long as that' moist you're fine. For anylone looking for a cheap soldering station, i can suggest looking into aoyue products - they are really affordable and more then adequate for most work poeple on lpf want to do.
 
Solder

Does the rosin core solder have flux in the inside?

Da... have you been paying attention ? yes you need solder with flux in the core, than means inside. you should also get other flux to use as needed. please read my posts read other posts then do some research, go on ersin web site and find out something about solder, you can't do a good job if you don't have good materials to work with. and practice practice practice!



Pyro
 
Any solder for electronics will have flux inside - just dont buy the stuff for plumbing.

I've never needed additional, seperate, flux to work on components with pins, but to each his own in that department.
 


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