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- Dec 29, 2009
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For a blue build, I actually might have to recommend against the 7135's, because once the battery voltage under load drops below (Vf+0.12V), it essentially acts as direct drive, i.e. your output starts dropping as the battery depletes past Vf+0.12V.
If you are running it at 1.4A, your Vf would be in the upper end of 4V.
I've wanted to experiment with using diodes to drop the 8.4V to 6V going to the Vcc pin, while keeping the full 8.4V available for use by the load. I can't say if this will work or not, but it's worth a shot.
Alternatively, you could source some 3.0V RCR123's (yes, there is such a beast) and just use those to power your light. Just try to use protected if you can, because you'll be drawing 1.4 amps from the cells, and that's just a wee bit over the 2C recommended limit for Li-Ion.
If you are running it at 1.4A, your Vf would be in the upper end of 4V.
I've wanted to experiment with using diodes to drop the 8.4V to 6V going to the Vcc pin, while keeping the full 8.4V available for use by the load. I can't say if this will work or not, but it's worth a shot.
Alternatively, you could source some 3.0V RCR123's (yes, there is such a beast) and just use those to power your light. Just try to use protected if you can, because you'll be drawing 1.4 amps from the cells, and that's just a wee bit over the 2C recommended limit for Li-Ion.