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FrozenGate by Avery

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They won't be actual battries, but 15 volt DC power supplies - two of them, one negative and one positive. People in electronics often use the battery symbol for all kinds of constant-voltage dc supplies.

As for the correction amp thing: On my project i'm doing them ilda standard for X and Y to the galvo controls. I will not bother for the laser controls as i'll do those TTL for now, and just switch current sources on and off based on a threshold voltage that is adjusted with a single pot. I've gotten in to work already, though the current source isnt the best design available yet.
 





Okay now i am lost. so i need a like 9volts at the vcc but i also need 15 at vdc? a plus and a minus? so what 30V in total? i do not have a psu for 30v i got a old pc psu but max it has is +-12 so 24
 
The galvos run from +24 and -24 volts, and that is what the included power supply unit provides. I regulate those down to +12 and -12 for the compensation amps, as the opamps in the circuit cannot handle 48 volts total on their supply lines.

You will need an additional power supply to power the lasers though, that could be 5 or 9 volts positive depending on the circuit and type of laser. It would draw too much current to power them off the 24/12 volt system too - but if that did provide enough power, it would be entirely possible.
 
OnInitialUpdate(): Unable to instantiate output device 1 object.
OnInitialUpdate(): Unable to instantiate output device 2 object.
OnInitialUpdate(): Unable to instantiate output device 3 object.
No MIDI devices currently connected.
No MIDI devices opened.
Read the following values from LFI_Player.ini:
BasePort: 0x300
DisplayLaser: 0
DisplayScreen: 1
FlickerFree: 1
InvertBlanking: 0
ScriptRepeat: 1
Blank/Clip View: 0
GlobalDelay: 0
LaserScale: 100
VerticalScale: 100
BlankingShift:
DisplayTimer: 60
ColorMode: 0
MasterRed: 100
MasterGreen: 100
MasterBlue: 100
TTLThresholdRed: 50
TTLThresholdGreen: 50
TTLThresholdBlue: 50
InvertBitmap: 0
Frames2Write: 350
RecordPalette: 0
RecordView: 1
FadeInFrames: 1
FadeOutFrames: 1
GlobalFrameRepeat: 1
MoveIncrement: 1000
RotateIncrement: 5
ZoomIncrement: 1000
Drag Speed: 1
DragInertia: 200
Points Per Second: 18000
Beam X1 Origin: 0.15
Beam Y1 Origin: 0.4
Beam X2 Origin: 0.85
Beam Y2 Origin: 0.4
Beam 1 Height: 0.35
Beam 2 Height: 0.35
Beam 1 On: 1
Beam 2 On: 1
Beam 1 Invert X: 0
Beam 2 Invert X: 1
Beam YAG View: 0
Beam Mode: 0
Content Directory: C:\Laser\
Main Window Left: -4
Main Window Top: -4
Main Window Right: 1028
Main Window Bottom: 742
Left Preview Edge: 267
COM Port Index: -1
Baud Rate Index: 2
Data Bits Index: 3
Parity Index: 0
Stop Bits Index: 0
Hand Shake Index: 2
Use Serial Port: 0
OnInitialUpdate(): Initial values restored.
OnInitialUpdate(): COM Setup() failed.
OnInitialUpdate(): COM SetupHandshaking() failed.
Device_EZAUDDAC::EzAudDacInit() - Found 1 audio devices.
Starting program LFI_Player from directory
C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\Desktop\New Folder

I am unsure what that means but i also do not see an area to adjust my
midi for this card. i used the drivers that came with it so i am
unsure if that is the problem
 
Why would you need anything with midi if you want to set up your own soundcard dac system?

LFI will drive any sound card you want. If you happen to select something connected to speakers, you'll hear the output whining and rattling about.

I have configured it to use sound device #1 as the output. On my vista system that corresponds to the windows default soundcard, so its just a matter of selecting the usb soundcard as default to make it work.

If in doubt, just connect some headphones to the output of the usb soundcard. They will produce a rather loud sound when taking LFI output - dont put them in your ears, leaving them on the tabletop will be loud enough to assert you have selected the right output.
 
Okay got a new sound card and dac pre built coming so that should solve my problems.
I want to know how to setting up the lasers so they dont interfere with each other aka the common ground.
I want to mount them in a 1.5x1.5x4.5in block of aluminum but if i do they they will as share a common ground.
Is that a bad thing?
If yes might there be a way around it?
1Could you heat shrink the axis housing and still get it to dissipate enough heat?
2 Super glue that rubber heat transferring material to the housing then install axis modal.
3 Let them share a common ground
i think 2 would be the best way, i am confident that i could wrap it perfectly around the housing and then apply a bit of mineral oil for lubrication and press it into the heat sink.
What are your ideal and suggestions?
The reason i want to use one solid block is it will make sure everything is on the save level and be perfectly parallel.
 
You will almost never get the beams to exit the aixiz module at the same exact angle(at least not in my experience). I've got a GGW and LCC in Aixiz housings and mounted in z-bolt heatsinks, neither exits the modules exactly straight.
 
That could be because they were not set all the way in the aixiz housing. If you push them all the way forward and not just flush it should work perfectly.
But then again i have yet to try, and this world seems far from perfect for things to go my way.
 
With the aixiz module there is also a fair amount of 'wobble' in the output lens. This can be a nuisance, but also used to correct minor errors (a degree or perhaps a couple) in output angle. Downside is that you'd need to glue it in final position if you want the unit to be portable.

As for the ground problem:

It's good in terms of cooling and mechanical stability to set everthing in a single piece of metal. The downside is, as you mention, that all the module casings are at the same electrical potential.

If you have a red and a greed, its most common that the red will be case-negative and the green be case-positive. This means that you need to drive the red with a 'high side' driver, which isn't that much of a problem (the LM317 circuit does this).

The green, however, would have to be fed by a negative current source with a low side driver. To do this, you need a negative power supply. If you fancy the LM317 based drivers, you can build a mirror image of that using the LM337 chip, which behaves indentical to the 317 but from the negative side.

Obvious warning: Do not bolt the LM317/337's onto the block as their metal tabs will not be a ground level in this application.
 
Well as for heat from the laser and stuff i am starting to think i would be better off going with 3 different blocks just so i dont have to worry. I also am planning on mounting them on a plastic cutting board for now. then later get a 6-8mm plate.
 
Thats one way of going about it. I ordered an insulating heatsink from Andy (its in the b/s/t board), waiting on that to arrive here. The advantage is that i can power both red and green from a positive supply, and only have to design a single ttl driver that works for both (with different current, but thats no problem).

The cutting board sounds like a cheap option, but as long as its very sturdy should be workable. I plan to put the entire optical setup (galvo set, 2 lasers in one mounting block, and combining optics) on a epoxy printed circuit board.
 
For now i just want to get my projector up and running asap.
I just hope i dont push anything.
How small is to small for an case?
I noticed that peoples scanners have huge amount of space between components why is that?
I am fitting mine inside a 8x5x3 case, besides from cooling why do people use such large cases for such small stuff?
 
Perhaps to leave space for future upgrades, like bigger laser units?

It also makes adjusting beams easier using small deflections with mirrors. A 1 degree adjustment obviously results in a bigger displacement of the beam if whatever you are aiming at is further away. But that can be a con too if things get too finicky.
 
woot just extracted my green laser out of its pen host. that was a huge pain.
 
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