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FrozenGate by Avery

rkcstr driver acting wierd / wierd artifact in phr beam

Tabish

Tabish

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Aug 30, 2009
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I used the formula 1.25 / resistance = current

Worked like a charm for 100ma. Then 110ma.

Now I took it to 120ma. Set the rkcstr to a resistance of 10.4

1.25/10.4 = 120ma

When I connect my amp meter to the + of battery and + driver input.

It shows 95ma. Then quickly goes up to about 97ma. Slows down but keeps going up. 98ma, 99ma, 100ma, 101, 102ma.....

It gets slower and slower. I mean REAL slow but current keeps going up. I didn't let it stay on longer because I don't want to overheat the PHR (no host, just module)

Battery is fully charged at 8.4V btw. Capacity is 900mAh.

Also, meter showd 100ma when I set to 100 and 110ma when i set to 110..



Also, check the diodes splash pattern. Always been like that. The picture looks wierd but look at the top right.


EDIT: The diode isn't Dead !!!! It can light matches.
 

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your diode looks like fail:cryyy:

you still got another one right?

Dont know about your driver tho sry.
 
I highly doubt that. It still has lots of power.

It lights matches.....
 
Glutton means your diode looks like it's getting ready to die by the pattern it's throwing out on the wall. Could be a couple of things, lens artifacts on the diode window, one the collimating lens, it does put out a weird pattern. Eh, if it works don't stress. The driver on the otherhand does sound funny. I never set mine that way though. I use the actual current method and measure actual current through the diode output pads without using a test load. It is what it is, 135 mA = 135 mA. That is the easiest way to set them and if you know what your are shooting for, you can't miss. Never, ever had any problem doing them that way. ;)

Could be a bad solder joint or a trace or any number of things. Try another driver and see what happens.
 
lens problem ?

I mean, lens scratched / spotted, or similar ?

BTW, the current derive is almost normal, if the assembly have no heatsink ..... both the diode and regulator changes a bit their characteristics, when the temperature change (in the past i made a test for that ..... with labby stabilized PSU, well heated, connected a PHR with a constantane resistor and set the current to 90.0 mA ..... in few minutes, module rised temp, and current rised with a similar curve til 114.6mA, then i turned all off, cause at that point the diode was going over 50 C and all was starting to rise too much quick)

Try to dissipate both the module AND the driver.

In alternative, if you can still find a 20 ohm power PTC (they was common, years ago, but actually is becomed difficult to find them, at least here), you can put it in the current limitation line, so if the temp rise too much, the PTC increase the value, and the current decrease.

I made it with some high power reds, in the past, but actually i ran out of these PTC, and desperately searching others :p
 
It has always had that dark spot.

EVEN WITHOUT A LENSE.


EDIT: Hmm i'l try to clean the diode window with a q-tip.
 
CAREFULLY, not much pressure. It may be just the way it is made. Stranger things have happened. :D
 
daguin said:
I can light a match with 35mW of well focused violet light

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...

It smokes plastic instantly too. 35mW cant do that can it ?

I have another phr. Just waiting on rayfoss driver to arrive. Then I can compare both beams.
 
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Dude, I have the same problem, i have a artifact in the middle of my unfocused beam and when i look at the diode itself on the glass there is an extremely tiny dot. I cant clean it off and its really annoying because its putting out 200mw but its acting like 100mw. I have a 6x bluray diode.
 
Clazgar said:
Dude, I have the same problem, i have a artifact in the middle of my unfocused beam and when i look at the diode itself on the glass there is an extremely tiny dot. I cant clean it off and its really annoying because its putting out 200mw but its acting like 100mw. I have a 6x bluray diode.
Click to expand...

Something got "cooked" onto the diode window. Maybe a bit of plastic melted from the back of the lens nut. Sometimes you can scrape it off. However, be gentle

Peace,
dave
 
daguin said:
I don't know. I didn't try it. What kind of plastic did you want me to burn?

Peace,
dave

**EDIT** YEP!
I just smoked both black plastic and black rubber with the 30mW module I have for sale in my "modules" thread
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-modules-modules-more-44008.html
Click to expand...

Umm anything lol. It burns my cheap 5$ plastic keyboard lol

Cd cases too

EDIT: ok, so maybe it doesn't take too much power to burn when it comes to blurays lol
hope mine isn't under powered.
 
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