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FrozenGate by Avery

RGV Adjustable Sled Mount Heat Sinks - Feeler

One tricky part of this build is the final positioning of the turning mirror...

The Green must meet the other beams precisely in order to have a single beam at the exit aperture. So you pretty much have to have your green mounted and at least one of the other lasers mounted to do the final adjustment of the turning mirror.

I have a really cheap and easy 'beam alignment' tool. A 20 oz. Pepsi bottle! Lol...

I just drilled a hole in the lid, and glued in a plastic flashlight lens so that I can keep the smoke from a couple of matches inside. This actually lasts for quite some time. Over an hour.

Anyway, this allows you to check the beam alignment at aperture in the comfort of your office or work desk. Once you have the aperture beam alignment, you can then go for the dot alignment at distance. ;)
Jay
 
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Interesting maybe just do the drilling and lathe(ing?) on the sled and leave the gluing of the turing mirror to the customer.

Oh and I found a source for 18650 battery holders! :O
Bit expensive thats all but you can't expect stuff made by hand to be DX price :P.
FINALLY! http://www.turboferret.co.uk/products.php
 
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Nice Jay,

I ordered this rgb driver from Norm with TTL or analog modulation:
RGB TRIPLE LASER DIODE DRIVER w/TTL-Analog Mod DIY KIT


Ryan

I have this driver in my RGV projector....its a sexy little thing..Prety Small.
STA70641.jpg


STA70641.JPG
 
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I like the Pepsi bottle idea Jay, genius!

Misterwilling,
What about a pot in between the diode and the and the flex driver?
Drlava should be the one to answer this but I’m almost positive that would work fine.

I am currently working on a driver to power this build w/ a single li-ion cell. I ordered some IC samples of the MAX711 and the LTC3529 and have already received my inductors (samples as well) for the build. I'll let you’ all know how well this works out once I have tested them.
 
Dr. Lava

Talked to drLava, Hes going to help me out and remove some of the pots on some flex drives and solder on some wires(I am not skilled enough to do this). Then replacing the SMD pot with one of the same resistance value, a larger sized one should allow me to control the current easily within the set range of 108-412mA for both my blu-ray and red diode. This should give control of the power output. And for the green I think a 10 ohm pot in-between battery and driver is still the best option for me because I really don't want to mess up my $75 green. Burnt out enough lasers as it is.
 
Hey KGB,


Are those masive resistors in the background of your picture?


-Ryan
 
Why not take OUT the optics (or use better optics Wink wink) and make a machiened alu holder for them it would proberly work way better and be smaller then you would just have to make a heatsink that screws onto the optic holder and put the diode/module in the heatsink and tighten the set-screw.

Then power it up what do you think sightfx somthing like that would make this stuff EASY I'm sure people would pay alot of money for one.
 
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Unfortunetly I am without a shop for the next week as well and this one so progress will have to wait. I do have some more tools on the way to help make them easier to build.

I am ready to start building the 1" version of the mounts on the cover when I get back.

Version 3 will only take another week or less to finish once my tools get in. They should also be less expensive because they are easier to build. I like the 1" version best personaly. They look cool when it all together. I plan on using the same clear case from jayrobs build to display it once I have this driver built.


Thanks,

Ryan
 
I'd choose version 2 but we really need to find some real optics for these 7 color lasers the one's in the sleds are pure fail.
 
JayRobs figures are showing a 22% loss for blu Ray when oriented properly. I'm sure this can can be beat for a price. I have been reading up on PBSs and Dichros and it seems to me that most of the loss is with using the PBS cube. Dichros can be tuned in to reflect and transmit different frequencies very well with verry little loss. Diodes give out more of one polarity than another but there is still some polarized light that is not parallel to the main so a PBS will block it. Using two Dichros and ditching the PBS cube seems to be the way. I think the Dichro in the PHR does a good job of reflecting red and Blu-ray while transmitting green. All we need is a harvestable Dichro that reflects blu-ray and transmits red and we have the solution on the cheep. Buying the one misterwilling points to in one of his posts is worth it though if a harvestable one with the same properties can't be found.

-SiteFX
 
We could use two dichroic mirrors one reflecting green and transmitting red and one transmitting violet and reflecting red and green put-together.

You can get two for about 20 bucks and only have about 10% lose for rgv.
 





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