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FrozenGate by Avery

Review: DRY 3 XM-L T6 CW *PIC HEAVY*

IIRC, there should be a contact board that will come with it and it was 30-32mm. The depth inside is around 10-15mm. The original driver the DRY comes with has just enough space for a thermal pad to place on the IC to make contact with the screw to the aluminum reflector.

Are those XM-L LEDs happen to be the U2 bins? That would be pretty cool.

I was able to fit a UCL lens to replace the original for more OTF lumens :beer: Same size as the mags.
 





Do you know if they make a skeleton handle? Im guessing it didnt come with the torch? Niteye makes a similar 3x light , its a few bucks more but its has a knock Hellfighter handle which is a cool accessory especially for long run times. And internals appear to me made with better components and materials. Im judging only from pics its could be the same basic light with some bling. If anyone is familiar with the Niteye It would be good to get some feedback.

And i was kidding about gutting this particular torch...Heck, i wouldn't even know what to put in it...
 
@DarkSide: No, they don't make a skeleton handle for this light. I don't think it was designed to be weapon mounted. You would have to DIY.

Are you refering to the the Niteye EYE30? That's a good light with pretty cool features, just a bit pricey for me. There's probably some reviews on CPF and or BLF on that light.

@Blord: That's a pretty decent driver, it might be a tight fit in there though. I just measured inside and its 16mm, but since the screw adds in just about 13mm clearance.

From the specs on the driver it looks like it about 12mm in height.
 
I got the DRY host faster than I thought. I even haven't ordered the driver yet.
Is it possible to direct drive all three XML led with 3 18650 batteries in series ? Maybe 2 18650 battery and bypass one holder with wire.

I have direct drive my P7 with one 18650 and it works wonderfully well but the XML leds have lower Vf. That will give massive current surge thru the system.
I don't know if the standard silicon wires from the laser builds are adequate enough for this job ?
 
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I'd probably recommend using a power resistor to drop some additional voltage and restrict the current. It might be too much of a difference in voltage between the LEDs and the batteries without the resistor. I use 20g silicone wire on my flashlight builds.
 
My DRY supposedly DD's on turbo. Haven't seen a resistor. Is noticeably brighter than high. By noticeably, I mean just that, I can notice that it is brighter, so that's not saying much, but there you have it.
 
I have a couple DD lights and my XM-L has a MOSFET while my P7 is straight wire, but has a resistor for low mode. I wonder if this is the same case in the DRY because I saw a MOSFET in the driver, but not sure how it tied in to the whole driver.

I killed 2 SST-90s direct driving =[
 
I manage to solder three XML T6 leds from 3 different flashlight into the DRY. It works well. Color and efficiency are a perfect match. The white templates between the leds and the reflectore are also perfect. They are made for the XML leds.
I use my bench psu for the power at 3A.
Looks like a nuclear bomb went off on my desk, so bright. :D

I could shave off a few mm from the inside bolt to gain an extra space or find a bolt with a flatter head.
 
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Cool review! I'm still torn about weather to grab a HID now or wait and see if they come down a bit in price.


Looks kind of hand soldered. Silk print shows up an ATMEL 211. Searches come out to be a IC switch?​


I'm pretty sure that chip is an ATMEL AT24C01A serial memory chip. I have some here and have used them in micro projects. Which indicates that the other unmarked IC on that board is a processor of some kind.​
 
@Blord: Crank up the amps to 4A!! Maybe a flatter head screw would be better. Just wondering did the host come with isolation rings for the LEDs??

@AUS: 85W HIDs are pretty cheap now. I've seen them for about $135 free DHL or EMS shipping.

That explains it better. So I guess this is used to control the modes? The other IC has to be the used to power the LEDs.
 
Hehe, I know they can do 4A under very good heatsinking. It's my first XML build and I want to keep it longer.
But I did try them on 4A but I didn't see any significant increase in brightness over the 3A. Maybe my eyes are already overloaded :)

The butterfly isolation thing come standard with the empty host. Above it there is a circular extrusion that match perfect with the back of the reflector. It makes the alignment also a walk in the park. :)
 
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Nice, I like those isolation rings. They come in handy if you have an aluminum reflector and don't want it to short out.
 


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