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FrozenGate by Avery

Red DIY DVD laser burner.

Dark_Horse said:
Gazoo, If I used an open-can LD, like from the DVR115, in place of the GB LD, would I be OK with the 350ma that my Dorcy is putting out without resistors, then I would just need to add a capicitor to the LD, and I should have a reliable-long-lived that can burn like the GB LD, maybe a little better?
BTW, Where do I buy the Merideth module, I would like a little better optics?
Thank you all,
Dark Horse
Click to expand...

I think you would be fine with an open can running directly off of the circuit. Maybe Kenom can confirm this but I don't think a capacitor is necessary because the Dorcy circuit already has one on there.

The meredith modules do have some drawbacks. Sometimes when turning the focusing ring the diode turns with it. Jay noticed that the adapter was a bit too long in one he received so he had to trim the adapter down so it would focus for distance. The the lenses are better than the aixiz, whether or not you get a glass or acrylic lens. The acrylic seems to burn a bit better especially when lighting matches at a distance, however the glass lens lets more light through so the output is increases, but the beam diameter is larger. As with the aixiz, there is some wiggle in the threads. It would be nice to find modules that don't have this problem. By making finer threads the problem would be solved. Anyway, here is the link:

http://www.mi-lasers.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&keywords=diode_optics

If you order one make sure to get the 5.6mm to 9mm adapter.
 





I'm running an open can straight off of the Dorcy circuit @~320mA w/o any problems. ;) It works great! I have been using it for about a month with many runs > 1 minute.
 
I'm running an open can too using the Dorcy circuits for over 3 months now. [smiley=wink.gif] Using Panasonic Lithium Primary I can get 340mA, run time ~2 minutes.
 
Kenom,
Thanks for reposting the picture of the circuit, I am not very familiar with Suface-mount componets, can you verify that one is a capicitor, and so I do not need to add one?
Thank you to everyone else confirming that an open-can can run directly from the stock circuit, looks like I will be doing some experiment with diferent LD's , hopefully I will get to try the "Phasor LD" next, if the GB goes through;)
Dark Horse
 
Dark_Horse said:
Kenom,
Thanks for reposting the picture of the circuit, I am not very familiar with Suface-mount componets, can you verify that one is a capicitor, and so I do not need to add one?
Click to expand...
Kenom said:
yeah it has 2 capacitors on it.
Click to expand...
Yes, but are they across the laser diode? They don't look like high-value capacitors from the photo...
 
tone1132 said:
How do you know what pins are pos & neg on the diode??
Click to expand...

There is a sticky posted at the fop of this section of the forum called Group Buy Diode Pin-outs !
 
hey kenom how hard is it to get the driver out of the dorcy? i was thinking to rreplace the surface mount resistor with a higher rating resistor so no need for it on the diode
 
it's pretty easy to remvoe. Just push another battery in there as well as the existing one and keep applying steady soft pressure.
 
hey,

I am thinking about starting one of these projects soon, as I have a spare 50 dollars(or whatever will be left after buying a CR123 battery for my Galileo). I have wire and a switch and a capacitor (47uF 10V I think, is that large enough?). I also have an AixiZ module to put a diode into. the only thing (I think) I need would be a power source, maybe a pot (what rating?), a resistor, and the actual diode itself!

I can figure out or look up what resistor size to use, but what about all those other components. Is my capacitor large enough? What pot would I need, and what kind of power source would I want? also, is an AixiZ module enough to heatsink it? and I won't be over driving this diode, only keeping it at a constant 150 or 200 mW.
 
did you cut the bottom off the laser housing? and is there any resistors or anything protecting the diode?? im pretty new here, thanx
 
well i watched the video. i electricly isolated the cooections, i cut into the aluminum, is that ok? i had a good connection when i soldered it and put it together it was completely dim and got pretty warm. whats the deal??
 
if it was dim then you've fried the diode. it's possible that you killed it by esd or shorting the pins together. I'm putting together a more complete walkthrough video.
 
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