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FrozenGate by Avery

Question about 405nm 150mW module.

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ElektroFreak

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Question:

I recently purchased a Blu-Ray diode in an Aixiz module from ebay seller bandtled. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:11&Item=180303428022) According to his listing they are rated to 150mW. I was wondering if anyone here knows what type of diode these use, or if anyone knows if they tend to be pretty durable or not.

I've got mine in an aluminum round-stock heatsink from jayrob. I'd like to use it in a scanner, so it would have to be powered up most of the time. I'd like to be able to keep it around 100mW with no duty cycle, but I don't know for sure if it will handle constant-on in this configuration.

Any help would be most appreciated.
 





ElektroFreak said:
Question:

I recently purchased a Blu-Ray diode in an Aixiz module from ebay seller bandtled. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:11&Item=180303428022) According to his listing they are rated to 150mW. I was wondering if anyone here knows what type of diode these use, or if anyone knows if they tend to be pretty durable or not.

I've got mine in an aluminum round-stock heatsink from jayrob. I'd like to use it in a scanner, so it would have to be powered up most of the time.  I'd like to be able to keep it around 100mW with no duty cycle, but I don't know for sure if it will handle constant-on in this configuration.

Any help would be most appreciated.
Click to expand...

PHR 803T ;)
 
OK, so here's the real question. Does anyone have any idea what a sweet spot might be for these diodes? By sweet spot I mean a power level that would allow maximum lifetime without sacrificing too much power. Keep in mind that I do have the module locked into a large chunk of aluminum.

(I'm mostly just asking because I've blown several of these diodes while learning their characteristics. I'm a little tired of buying them over and over. Now that I've perfected the driver design, I'm ready to stick the whole thing in a scanner and start projecting things.)
 
ElektroFreak said:
OK, so here's the real question. Does anyone have any idea what a sweet spot might be for these diodes? By sweet spot I mean a power level that would allow maximum lifetime without sacrificing too much power. Keep in mind that I do have the module locked into a large chunk of aluminum.

(I'm mostly just asking because I've blown several of these diodes while learning their characteristics. I'm a little tired of buying them over and over. Now that I've perfected the driver design, I'm ready to stick the whole thing in a scanner and start projecting things.)
Click to expand...


If you want 100% duty cycel and a longer lift span anywhere from 80-120mA should be ok.

-Adam
 
Well, this is the fourth diode I have purchased from this seller. I blame the deaths of the first three on myself, since it is kind of hard to find a datasheet on a diode if you don't know what kind it is. The first came disconnected between the driver and diode while powered up, and the other two died from me trying to figure out how hard I could push them. The one I'm using now has never seen current over 100mA and is encased in a large aluminum cylinder. I have a heatsink that will fit an Aixiz module on the way (http://www.z-bolt.com/MODIIIbg-green-laser-module.html look for the heatsink tab). This heatsink should work even better than the aluminum block, especially with a fan.

My goal is to have a module over 60mW with extremely high reliablility, due to the fact that it will be used in a stage scanner and once installed, I don't want to have to mess with it again for a LONG time. The scanner will (when finished and operating reliably) be used in a nightclub here in St. Louis. Don't need it to go dead right off the bat..

Bandtled has a 100% positive feedback rate, and ships fast. No returns/exchanges, though, but that's understandable. He's a quick, easy source of blu-ray diodes that are lazy-man friendly. I would recommend him highly.
 
john_lawson said:
125 ma usually gives me 70-90 mw  ;) aka schweet spot
Click to expand...


This makes me think that maybe these aren't PHR diodes.For all four modules,  threshold is around 30mA and at 90mA they are burning stuff like crazy. I'm not sure what kind they are, but they seem more efficient than PHRs. At 90mA if you don't have a heatsink, they'll only last a few hours. I don't know how they would perform at 120mA, but according to the person I bought them from, they tend to produce around 135mW of output (before optics) at 90mA of current. I don't have a LPM so I haven't checked any of mine. All I have to go by is burning ability and what the supplier states.
 
prob a phr because he said "Negative is not case ground", phr's pins are both insulated from the can unlike most other diodes.
 
carulli said:
prob a phr because he said "Negative is not case ground", phr's pins are both insulated from the can unlike most other diodes.
Click to expand...

Yes, and if possible, connect the cathode (-) pin to the case, or at the very least, connect the case to ground to avoid static discharge problems that could damage the diode.

Also, if you grab one of Igor's lenses when they are available, you can easily get 100mW out at a Very reliable current level ;).
 
i have 1 unit in my front pocket my baby its at 125 ma -its 120mw nice
i made scopeguy another at 100 ma it runs 100 mw +- a few
now i have made a few more one is at 125 ma and is 90 mw ??

like everyone has said these prh's have thier own mind I love em !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
i bought one from that ebay seller and the diode was a led .


edit: sorry, it wasnt the same seller ( by nickname ), but sold the same item anyway ...

i wont trust ebay sellers anymore.
 
I am surprised nobody has mentioned this. The PHR-803T diode has a square code mark on the back with the pins. It is easily visible on a clean diode.. If it does not have the square code stamp, it's not an 803T..
 
the seller left the tiny PCB that the diode is mounted to on in order to minimize the amount of heat the diode is exposed to from soldering, which blocks the symbol (if there is one). thanks though, good idea.
 
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