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Prototype Mount NUBM44 Build

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Backstory
My BD209 laser wasn't powerful enough to vaporize the material I was concerned with, so I wanted to build something more powerful. At the same time, I didn't want to spend a lot on a fancy host, when really I'm only concerned with doing power tests at this point.

Materials
NUBM44, 12mm short-back module, no driver [DTR]
Blackbuck 8 driver [DTR]
G2 Lens [ebay]
AixiZ 12mm aluminum heatsink [ebay]
18650 battery holder [local shop]
2x 18650 batteries [already own]

Phase 1: Build Test Load
I chose the Blackbuck partly because it is able to do PWM / TTL modulation, and I wanted to be able to calibrate it myself.
Several LPF threads were instrumental in learning how to build a test load for myself:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/diy-diode-test-load-circuit-26772.html
http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/open-source-heavy-load-really-high-current-10-amp-test-load-88040-5.html

To build it, I bought the parts from my friendly local electronics store:
6x 8A diodes
6x heatsinks
1x 0.1ohm 10W resistor
1x prototype strip board
1x screw terminal


Test load with laser and driver.


Underside of the test load.

Phase 2: Assemble Prototype

I attached the components to DC power barrel jacks to make them easy to connect together.


12mm NUBM44 module in lab-style heatsink.


Test load with power connector.


Blackbuck 8 driver, and my first time doing SMD soldering!


Driver octopus!


All the pieces are falling into place.


I attached the control pins from the driver to a breadboard, which I put a momentary switch on. Here, the driver is set to 900mA, which seems to be its lowest setting.


First lasing! Connected a toggle switch and 10k pot to the breadboard here to make the beam adjustable at run-time.


Measuring the beam. It looks really pretty reflected off the marble tile.


Unfortunately due to software issues, I wasn't able to save a log of the power output. Here, the driver is set to 2A, and we're getting 1.75W of power!


Beam shot at 1.75W. Already it's so bright!

(Yes, this is the laser that I got a lens stuck in, as chronicled in this thread here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/my-lens-stuck-please-help-99928.html)

Thanks for reading!
:beer:
 
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Alaskan

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Impressive, +rep when I can.
 

BobMc

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Very nice, real clean pictures also. No sucess with getting your g2 unstuck? Bummers :(. Hoping the best.
 

Alaskan

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and I thought he was the help me troll who keeps posting here with new member names and a lot of silly questions, lol... very nice work.
 

lasersbee

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Nice clear pics of your build...
Like the Heat Sinks on the test load...:gj:

Jerry
 

Alaskan

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If you want to use that laser diode for burning, letting the output from the diode expand without a lens on it for a few inches, and then collimating with a 2 inch or larger PCX lens, the beam can be focused down to a very tiny spot 20 feet away which will tunnel through wood very quickly.
 

RedCowboy

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It's better I think to use a G2 and cyl pair and you can add a 3X BE from sanwu to really concentrate the power, or a 3 element and 3X BE will do pretty well, but either way you protect the diode's window from dust.

Of course your end purpose matters as well, a short FL lens like the G2 is very good for a DIY x-y table cutter.
 
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Alaskan

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3X will help reduce the divergence to allow long distance burning, and if it can focus down to a point by being adjustable, I agree.
 

RedCowboy

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Yes, it really depends on the end use, but for distance even with a large BE using a CYL pair to correct the rapidly diverging axis will do wonders with any given BE, I would love to find some like sanuw's 3X only much bigger, sadly the JET 10X needs a wider objective to properly utilize 10X with our MM diodes, you can cheat the focus in way short but you trade off the useful amount of distance, now if that JET 10x had about a 75mm objective and a little bit wider inlet, maybe 7mm rather than 5mm that would be great.
 
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Thanks for the kind words guys! I'm working on a tabletop vaporizer setup, so the working distance will be pretty short--maybe 30mm or so. So I've not done much research in the way of beam expanders. Though it would be super cool just to have this diode in a handheld pointer like some of the builds I've seen around here. But maybe later.

@Alaskan, maybe I'm just pulling the long troll! ;)

...

Just kidding. I've seen there are a lot of trolls that seem to appear here. :rolleyes:
 

Alaskan

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Naw, you don't appear to have the teeth of a troll.
 

dden4012

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I didn't see a heatsink on that driver. Keep the diode window clean. 7w through 2mm or 3mm is going to permabake any stuff that gets on there.
 

alphabirth

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Hi dden, nice catch! Yeah without a heatsink on the driver I didn't want to take it over 3A (as recommended on the product page). Though measuring it with an infrared thermometer showed it didn't get over 30 degrees C. The diodes of the test load, on the other hand, got to around 35C. I've held off putting one on, partly because I may want to use this driver in a portable build at some point, and would want to use a heatsink like the Survival Laser heatsink pill in that case.

The lens getting dirty is something that concerns me though... Do you have experience with a cutting system and have any advice?
 

ElectricPlasma

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Hey nice setup, alphabirth!! +rep from my end. Tinkering and prototyping is half the fun in this hobby! :D

If I read correctly, this is the module with the stuck lens? Have you tried talking to DTR asking for some help?
 

dden4012

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Hi dden, nice catch! Yeah without a heatsink on the driver I didn't want to take it over 3A (as recommended on the product page). Though measuring it with an infrared thermometer showed it didn't get over 30 degrees C. The diodes of the test load, on the other hand, got to around 35C. I've held off putting one on, partly because I may want to use this driver in a portable build at some point, and would want to use a heatsink like the Survival Laser heatsink pill in that case.

The lens getting dirty is something that concerns me though... Do you have experience with a cutting system and have any advice?
That driver will not fit the SL pill in an SL host. I would have built one already if it did. The BB8a driver will require a different approach. Do a search for Lifetime17 NUBM06 and a search of Lifetime17 NUGM01T to see how I used the driver. It's requires only a flashlight host and a custom cut heatsink to fit the flashlight.
I have a NUB44 and I had to pop the diode window out because I somehow burned something into it. I do not have any experience with anything productive with lasers. I just enjoy putting parts together and toying around with them. So advice is pick a lens and don't take it out.
 

alphabirth

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I have asked DTR for help on this module at this point, so hopefully he might be able to help me. Bummer about the SL heatsink not fitting, I hadn't actually looked at the measurements.
 




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