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FrozenGate by Avery

Picking my first laser build

paul1598419 said:
I doubt it. If you need it pressed send it to me. I'll press it for you. No charge. I have the same modules DTR has and also nickel plated brass ones too. I would have to charge you for the module, but nothing for labor. I do it a lot for members here. If you like, PM me and I'll send you my address. If you buy a diode, you can have them send it to me and you will only need to pay the postage back.
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Okay thank you, its hard to believe how many people here are willing to help me haha I love this forum.
I'll have to wait for the diode to come from China since I haven't found any in US except the kit that Lifetime offered me.
 
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Ultracrepidarian said:
Okay thank you, its hard to believe how many people here are willing to help me haha I love this forum.
I'll have to wait for the diode to come from China since I haven't found any in US except the kit that Lifetime offered me.
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No problem. I'm always around. Let me know if I can help. :)
 
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Ultracrepidarian said:
Would this be a good set?
https://www.survivallaser.com/Survival_Laser_R_660nm_Diode___Driver_Module/p556088_4103666.aspx
https://www.survivallaser.com/S4__Host_Assembly/p556088_7162268.aspx
https://www.survivallaser.com/635-685nm_AR_Coated_Acrylic_Lens_Assembly/p556088_4088031.aspx

Why is the diode and driver set so expensive?
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Because diodes and drivers are expensive lol

Those should work, but it’s not the most economical option. Instead, you could use the “bargain host bundle” that already comes with the driver set, will be cheaper but you might have to do a little more soldering.


Congratulations on your rep :beer:
 
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Gazen said:
Because diodes and drivers are expensive lol

Those should work, but it’s not the most economical option. Instead, you could use the “bargain host bundle” that already comes with the driver set, will be cheaper but you might have to do a little more soldering.


Congratulations on your rep :beer:
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The diode alone is $10 on ebay, I don't mind soldering, the wiring and pressing is what troubles me atm, is thermal paste a necessity? Might just send the diode to Paul like he suggested.

Thank you. :beer:
 
I’m sure Paul will do a great job if you choose to send it to him, but if you plan on doing more builds in the future you might want to invest in a diode press, I got one from DTR.

The wiring should be pretty simple if it’s the same as mine was, here’s a helpful thread, just to give an idea of how it should all come together:
https://laserpointerforums.com/f40/2w-470nm-c6-20mm-overdrive-special-100260.html
 
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I would not buy those diode, driver, module sets from SL. They are way over priced and include an LPC-826 which is lower in power than the LPC-836 or LPC-840. They are using the least expensive modules and charging $5.00 for the free acrylic lens that comes with any module you happen to buy. Also, there is no need to isolate the driver from the host unless you use their Blitz driver which is continuous positive. If you use a continuous negative driver, it will work fine. That cheap module they use should only cost you $3.00 as I can buy them in quantities from China for $2.00 each with the acrylic lens. I would use an aspheric lens like the "G-2" as it will give you the most power and the divergence would not suffer a bit.

My 2 cents.
 
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Gazen said:
I’m sure Paul will do a great job if you choose to send it to him, but if you plan on doing more builds in the future you might want to invest in a diode press, I got one from DTR.

The wiring should be pretty simple if it’s the same as mine was, here’s a helpful thread, just to give an idea of how it should all come together:
https://laserpointerforums.com/f40/2w-470nm-c6-20mm-overdrive-special-100260.html
Click to expand...

Thank you for the link, how much would a diode press cost me?

paul1598419 said:
I would not buy those diode, driver, module sets from SL. They are way over priced and include an LPC-826 which is lower in power than the LPC-836 or LPC-840. They are using the least expensive modules and charging $5.00 for the free acrylic lens that comes with any module you happen to buy. Also, there is no need to isolate the driver from the host unless you use their Blitz driver which is continuous positive. If you use a continuous negative driver, it will work fine. That cheap module they use should only cost you $3.00 as I can buy them in quantities from China for $2.00 each with the acrylic lens. I would use an aspheric lens like the "G-2" as it will give you the most power and the divergence would not suffer a bit.

My 2 cents.
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Yeah I was wondering why the price is so high. Does it matter if the driver is positive or negative? Will it affect the diode?
I am happy to buy everything separately and put it all together but my knowledge on it is still subpar, I looked through a lot of step by step tutorials but none of them are really "step by step". A bit more research and I'll be ready. :D
 
Since the diode is case negative, if you use a case positive driver like the Blitz Linear driver from SL and don't isolate the diode from the rest of the host, you will short your batteries out through the switch when you turn it on. I only use the Blitz driver for case positive diodes like some of the 505nm ones. Otherwise, there is no need for it at all. For this diode, I use a buck driver as the Vf is very low and you have the option of using either one or two Li-ion batteries. This can be done for much less than SL wants from you. And will likely turn out better than their build.
 
Alright, I want a case negative driver now, I still have a lot to learn.
Thank you Gazen for the link.
 
Hi Ultra,
DTR has a micro flex driver that will work for you. It has a pot to adjust the current, But you will have to solder a bridge across two resistors to get to the second range. On his site under drivers there is an illustration of how to do it.

Rich:)
 
Lifetime17 said:
Hi Ultra,
DTR has a micro flex driver that will work for you. It has a pot to adjust the current, But you will have to solder a bridge across two resistors to get to the second range. On his site under drivers there is an illustration of how to do it.

Rich:)
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that's too bad I have a lot ongoing projects because I would love for you to make me something again rich :)
 
I checked out the MicroFlex driver for this and since it uses boost/buck topology you still have a problem unless you isolate the case from the driver's cathode contact. I sent Ultracrepidarian a PM with a viable option, but haven't heard back yet.
 
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