PHR works !!!!!! Got few questions...

[Tabish]

Finally got my PHR working. Its awesome.

Had to drill out the back of the aixiz module tube so the wires could pass through.

It's purplish but turns blue when pointing on cloth/paper etc...

LIGHTS RED MATCHES !!!! (only ones I tried)
SMOKES PLASTIC!!!

I am using the 15$ aixiz glass lense from ebay.
I think I'll need to crazyglue the lense to the metal turning knob.

DRIVER CURRENT: Using RKCSTR driver

Calculated: (1.25 / Resistance) x 1000 = Current in MiliAmps
(1.25 / 12.3) x 1000 = 101.6 mA

Actual: 101.5 mA
(Tested using digital multimeter between battery positive and driver positive input)


MY CONCLUSION: Test Loads for rkcstr/phr ARE USELESS!!!!!

Use the formula: (1.25 / Resistance) x 1000 = Current in MiliAmps


SOME QUESTIONS:

- Should I stay at 101.5mA or is it safe to go higher????

- Should I use crazy glue to glue the aixiz knob to the aixiz glass lense???

- Whats a CHEAP HOST??? (I mean dirt cheap, I'm pretty much broke atm haha)

Can this work ??
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22336 OR
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.91

 

[pullbangdead]

Don't crazy glue/super glue a lens. Many glues of that type "fume", as in as the solvent evaporates, it leaves a coating of glue on everything nearby. Needless to say, this is bad for optics.

And test loads aren't useless. Not overly useful for an LM317 driver, but absolutely critical for other drivers. A lavadrive, for instance, will break if you use it without a testload. And I don't know about you, but I'm not putting an expensive diode on there to serve as my testload.

And you can do what you want, but I'd say just stick with that current. It'll last a long time at that, go higher with later builds.

And go get a project box at Radio Shack. It's a little black box, very easy to fit a laser in. Just get the smallest box that you're sure you can fit everything into, it's a great way to start your first laser. Then you can start planning more for future builds to be in nicer hosts, but it's always nice to get that first one enclosed in SOMETHING, just to say you really finished it.

 

[bobhaha]

wait wait wait.. you can check the current from the pos battery output and the pos driver input?? is that correct? doesn't sound right to me..

there are many hosts out there.. finding one for you really depends on your budget, as pullbangdead said you can get a project box from radioshack for a few $$ and drill out a 12 mm hole for the aixiz module, or depending on your budget you can go for "kits" from members here or off online sites. I'm guessing its going to be the first option but extra info can't hurt!

 

[ElektroFreak]

wait wait wait.. you can check the current from the pos battery output and the pos driver input?? is that correct? doesn't sound right to me..

With strictly linear drivers like the LM317 and rkcstr you can, yes. There is a very trivial difference between the current reading there and the current reading at the diode.

 

[Tabish]

Don't crazy glue/super glue a lens. Many glues of that type "fume", as in as the solvent evaporates, it leaves a coating of glue on everything nearby. Needless to say, this is bad for optics.

And test loads aren't useless. Not overly useful for an LM317 driver, but absolutely critical for other drivers. A lavadrive, for instance, will break if you use it without a testload. And I don't know about you, but I'm not putting an expensive diode on there to serve as my testload.

And you can do what you want, but I'd say just stick with that current. It'll last a long time at that, go higher with later builds.

And go get a project box at Radio Shack. It's a little black box, very easy to fit a laser in. Just get the smallest box that you're sure you can fit everything into, it's a great way to start your first laser. Then you can start planning more for future builds to be in nicer hosts, but it's always nice to get that first one enclosed in SOMETHING, just to say you really finished it.

Thanks for stopping me. I almost glued the lense haha

Btw, I never said test loads are useless. Just not usefull it seems for PHR / rkcstr. I mean I was of by 0.1 mA lol

 

[bobhaha]

what do you mean trivial difference.. and btw do you measure the resistance between the two.. and does it have to be used with a test load? i dont see how the input will determine the output current.. maybe im missing something..

btw your off by 1.6ma not 0.01 work it out..

1.25/12.5 = 0.1
0.1*1000 = 100ma not 101.5

 

[ElektroFreak]

By trivial i mean overlookable, maybe .1mA. And no, you don't really need a test load with linear drivers. The driver circuitry doesn't draw any current of it's own, really. Only the diode draws current, a linear driver just conditions and regulates the current and the voltage This does not apply to switching or buck/boost drivers (flexdrive) as these draw extra current over and above what the diode draws.

 

[Deleted member 8382]

I read the current on the batteries to know the current. It's way easier and you can adjust the pot while looking at the MM screen

 

[bobhaha]

ok.. so just to verify.. you measure the current between the pos battery (out) and pos battery (in, driver) in series? and you can adjust the pot and get differing readings.. does that all sound correct?

 

[lasersbee]

Thanks for stopping me. I almost glued the lense haha

Btw, I never said test loads are useless. Just not usefull it seems for PHR / rkcstr. I mean I was of by 0.1 mA lol

Everything you Post is recorded on the Form...

Originally Posted by Tabish
MY CONCLUSION: Test Loads for phr ARE USELESS!!!!!

@bobhaha... yes with a linear current driver like the DLL only...

@ EF.... yes... I believe a Test Load should be used to adjust the
current of a driver BEFORE connecting an expensive and sensitive
LD... (it is not written in stone or a Law of the Land but prudent)

The miniscule pots on the drivers are so touchy that you could easily
over drivevthe LD and blow it while adjusting it's current..
With a Test Load that would be avoided... IMO


Jerry

 

[bobhaha]

ok thank you laserbee!

 

[Deleted member 8382]

Well, not exactly. Use the amperimeter to close the circuit replacing the switch for example.

I find it easier anyway to put a 1 ohm resistor between any part of the circuit outside the driver. For instance, on a Dilda, get the rear button out and put a resistor there closing the circuit. measure the voltage and you have the current. Easy right?

 

[Tabish]

what do you mean trivial difference.. and btw do you measure the resistance between the two.. and does it have to be used with a test load? i dont see how the input will determine the output current.. maybe im missing something..

btw your off by 1.6ma not 0.01 work it out..

1.25/12.5 = 0.1
0.1*1000 = 100ma not 101.5

Ahh, my bad. I meant a resistance of 12.3 not 12.5.

 

[lasersbee]

@ Hallu......

I'm talking about adjusting the Driver with a Test Load BEFORE you
assemble the LD and driver into a Host..

After the LD is already in the host.. you can easily use the Amp or
MilliAmp setting on your DMM directly across the battery and Host
case to see how much current you are pulling.

But if you want to re-adjust the current on the Driver... my above
thoughts on the Test Load and why.. still apply...

Jerry

 

[Tabish]

Everything you Post is recorded on the Form...



@bobhaha... yes with a linear current driver like the DLL only...

@ EF.... yes... I believe a Test Load should be used to adjust the
current of a driver BEFORE connecting an expensive and sensitive
LD... (it is not written in stone or a Law of the Land but prudent)

The miniscule pots on the drivers are so touchy that you could easily
over drivevthe LD and blow it while adjusting it's current..
With a Test Load that would be avoided... IMO


Jerry

Rofl, got me. I meant for the rkcstr. I have never used a flexdrive so I guess you need test loads for it.

 

[lasersbee]

I use test loads on all drivers before I connect any sensitive
and expensive LD to a Driver..

Jerry