PHR-803T HIGH POWERED HD-DVD diodes! CLOSED

[vathink]

Got it sorted out I think. I figured out that the diode has a voltage drop of 5.5V. So I bumped up the input voltage on my driver to 7V just in case and now I'm pushing this thing to 230mA and got 200mW on the dot! more than 230mA and the output power will drop instead of going up. I know, it's still not that good when you look at the mA over mW ratio. This must be because of the Meredith acrylic lens and I don't have the glass one unfortunately . I'm gonna try measure its power output before optics. Anyway, I'm gonna try run this 405nm DIY labby at this current level for 24 hours to see if good cooling can prevent it from dying.

Cheers.

 

[nvmextc]

Woohoo, in Australia, received my 3! A million things to do today so may have to leave em till the weekend

 

[Zom-B]

[quote author=daguin link=1210888983/288#294 date=1215576988][quote author=amkdeath link=1210888983/288#293 date=1215576658]
mine always die at 180mA. I have stabily pushed one to 140, (bout 190mW) then to 180 (which was 230mW and then dead)
the other ones are good at around 120, then they get a little weird at around 140, then they die after that.

Let me make sure I am reading this right.

With 140mA input from the driver, you were getting 190mW out of the diode

With 180mA input from the driver, you were getting 230mW out of the diode

Am I reading that correctly?

Peace,
dave[/quote]


yup, that was a SPECIAL diode. the other ones usually aren't as efficient when you start to go high, that one was marvelous. Too bad my DMM died after that. I dont have anymore 9v batteries, and I got 30second bursts of DMM here and there form the little juice left in my 9v's that I had lying around.

the rest of these die after 160mW. [/quote]
Mind that DMMs's with depleted batteries give off VERY wrong readings. Even my professional $400 DMM.

Got it sorted out I think. I figured out that the diode has a voltage drop of 5.5V. So I bumped up the input voltage on my driver to 7V just in case and now I'm pushing this thing to 230mA and got 200mW on the dot! more than 230mA and the output power will drop instead of going up. I know, it's still not that good when you look at the mA over mW ratio. This must be because of the Meredith acrylic lens and I don't have the glass one unfortunately . I'm gonna try measure its power output before optics. Anyway, I'm gonna try run this 405nm DIY labby at this current level for 24 hours to see if good cooling can prevent it from dying.

Cheers.

Driving the diode at the point where after it starts dropping in power is very bad. You have to drive them at the 'sweet' spot, which is maybe best described as the point where the increase in efficiency starts to drop rapidly, and also called the 'knee' in current-power graphs.


Here in Holland - not received yet.


And something else: I want to see power graphs because they can be used both to find the sweet spot of everyone's diodes, and can help to distinguish 'normal' diodes from SPECIAL diodes easily.

 

[amkdeath]

[quote author=amkdeath link=1210888983/288#295 date=1215580885][quote author=daguin link=1210888983/288#294 date=1215576988][quote author=amkdeath link=1210888983/288#293 date=1215576658]
mine always die at 180mA. I have stabily pushed one to 140, (bout 190mW) then to 180 (which was 230mW and then dead)
the other ones are good at around 120, then they get a little weird at around 140, then they die after that.

Let me make sure I am reading this right.  

With 140mA input from the driver, you were getting 190mW out of the diode

With 180mA input from the driver, you were getting 230mW out of the diode

Am I reading that correctly?

Peace,
dave[/quote]


yup, that was a SPECIAL diode. the other ones usually aren't as efficient when you start to go high, that one was marvelous. Too bad my DMM died after that. I dont have anymore 9v batteries, and I got 30second bursts of DMM here and there form the little juice left in my 9v's that I had lying around.

the rest of these die after 160mW. [/quote]
Mind that DMMs's with depleted batteries give off VERY wrong readings. Even my professional $400 DMM.

Got it sorted out I think. I figured out that the diode has a voltage drop of 5.5V. So I bumped up the input voltage on my driver to 7V just in case and now I'm pushing this thing to 230mA and got 200mW on the dot! more than 230mA and the output power will drop instead of going up. I know, it's still not that good when you look at the mA over mW ratio. This must be because of the Meredith acrylic lens and I don't have the glass one unfortunately  . I'm gonna try measure its power output before optics. Anyway, I'm gonna try run this 405nm DIY labby at this current level for 24 hours to see if good cooling can prevent it from dying.

Cheers.

Driving the diode at the point where after it starts dropping in power is very bad. You have to drive them at the 'sweet' spot, which is maybe best described as the point where the increase in efficiency starts to drop rapidly, and also called the 'knee' in current-power graphs.


Here in Holland  -  not received yet.


And something else: I want to see power graphs because they can be used both to find the sweet spot of everyone's diodes, and can help to distinguish 'normal' diodes from SPECIAL diodes easily.[/quote]


dont worry, the readings were not off. And yes, I jsut wanted to see how Far I can push those things

 

[Zom-B]

I just received them!! I tested two of the four and they are sweet. I increased the current with 1mA steps and tested my new progressive sweet spot detection formula. I got these sweet spots:

First one (5): 102mW @ 145mA (108.6mW peak)
Second one (6): 129.2mW @ 157mA
Third one (7): 172mW @ 168mA
Fourth one (8): 189.9mW @ 198mA and I feared this might be a strange one which does not show a knee before breakdown, so I didn't dare to go any further.

The Hook you see in the curve of diode (5) is the peak output at the sweet spot, during warm-up. The other points on the curve are the CW output when hot.

[edit]I added the curves for diodes no (7) and (8) and I corrected the curves of the others because the peak did indicate the output when hot after all. During extraction of diode (5) from the aizix, the glass broke, and after removing the pieces and hooking it up again, it was no more. :-[

 

[icecruncher]

Got mine today and I know why it took so long.

Boy, you can't spell. (and it was handwritten, always takes longer)

Thanks, look good.

 

[amkdeath]

Got mine today and I know why it took so long.

Boy, you can't spell.  (and it was handwritten, always takes longer)

Thanks, look good.

lol, last minute shipping ;D ;D

The Open can GB is professionally labeled and in 6x9 packaging ;D ;D

 

[D3StRoY]

Hey amk, thank you for your service !!!

The 3 pieces arrived in good condition, too bad im leaving the country for 3 weeks so i dont have time to make a bluray laser

Thanks amk! Great GB

 

[Zom-B]

I just received them!! I tested two of the four and they are sweet. I increased the current with 1mA steps and tested my new progressive sweet spot detection formula. I got these sweet spots:

First one (5): 102mW @ 145mA (108.6mW peak)
Second one (6): 129.2mW @ 157mW

The Hook you see in the curve of diode (5) is the peak output at the sweet spot, during warm-up. The other points on the curve are the CW output when hot.

darn! I forgot to mention, they are WINDOWED cans, not windowless like most of the reports I read. I received just sleds, not the whole rails and stuff.

[Edit] I updated my graph on the previous forum page with all four curves.

 

[D3StRoY]

Nice one Zom-B !

Got mine running now, had some spare parts.. measured 161mA - 113mW, not really hot.. though 113mW is quite enough atm, im satisfied with the results.. maybe ill boost 1 of my other 2 spare diodes to 150mW+

Its currently running in a mdxl host
Gonna spraypaint my rings blue so i know its the bluray laser

 

[daguin]

I just received them!! I tested two of the four and they are sweet. I increased the current with 1mA steps and tested my new progressive sweet spot detection formula. I got these sweet spots:

First one (5): 102mW @ 145mA (108.6mW peak)
Second one (6): 129.2mW @ 157mA
Third one (7): 172mW @ 168mA
Fourth one (8): 189.9mW @ 198mA and I feared this might be a strange one which does not show a knee before breakdown, so I didn't dare to go any further.

The Hook you see in the curve of diode (5) is the peak output at the sweet spot, during warm-up. The other points on the curve are the CW output when hot.

[edit]I added the curves for diodes no (7) and (8) and I corrected the curves of the others because the peak did indicate the output when hot after all. During extraction of diode (5) from the aizix, the glass broke, and after removing the pieces and hooking it up again, it was no more. :-[

Great work!!!!!

Can I bear your children?


Peace,
dave

 

[amkdeath]

Well, I am left with 4 dead chillun and 1 in a JayRob Heatsink + 3x10440 MXDL (100mW) (I decided to keep it at ~100 this time, NO MORE PUSHING FOR ME) (*sobs* 100 down the drain... or at least on my workstation's floor...)


One thing I have found is that these things dont hold up to well afterwords for load testing... I mean, its a good LED for like 5 minutes total time, then it just goes out.



now I has my 20mW KES-400A wit no homez...

 

[daguin]

Well, I am left with 4 dead chillun and 1 in a JayRob Heatsink + 3x10440 MXDL (100mW) (I decided to keep it at ~100 this time, NO MORE PUSHING FOR ME) (*sobs* 100 down the drain... or at least on my workstation's floor...)

It's only money. You just go to that ATM thingy and get more, don't you?

Peace,
dave

 

[amkdeath]

[quote author=amkdeath link=1210888983/312#316 date=1215794535]Well, I am left with 4 dead chillun and 1 in a JayRob Heatsink + 3x10440 MXDL (100mW) (I decided to keep it at ~100 this time, NO MORE PUSHING FOR ME) (*sobs* 100 down the drain... or at least on my workstation's floor...)

It's only money.  You just go to that ATM thingy and get more, don't you?

Peace,
dave
[/quote]
;D

 

[D3StRoY]

http://80.57.226.24/measure.jpg Running perfectly

 

[Zom-B]

I'm a little concerned for your diode, D3StRoY. If I plot a point of your diode in my graph, it's either the same as my weakest one except pushed farther, or it is less efficient than my weakest and you're pushing it even more. For a long lifetime, I suggest you draw a graph like I did and watch for the knee.