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FrozenGate by Avery

Optics for white beam

lv128

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I just got my galvo - a 33Kpps from china, came with the ilda breakout board and the power supply for the galvo. I'm in the process of assembling my diodes that I intend to use for the RG and V, question here is does anyone have a good source for optics such as the combining blocks in order to produce a white beam (before it reaches the dichro)

Another optics question while I'm at it, I'm assembling this kit here:
Green laser kit
and it has a 808 that goes into a correcting lens, then focusing lens, then ktp i can't really come up with a good way to mount all these into a nice little package, and I'd prefer not to have a 808nm spreading light into my scanner box for obvious reasons. I've got a slew of axiz modules, but no good ideas.

I've got no problems with the 635 and the 405nm...

so any help or ideas would be appreciated
 





Not sure why you would go to a Dichroic mirror after you already have white light. Dichroic mirrors are usualy used to do the combining of light. Cubes are often Polarized Beem Splitters or PBSs. Thay can be used to combine lasers but only two because the resulting two waves of the combine beams will be both horizontaly and verticaly polarized. Do a search on PBS cubes and you will find an illustration or two of what I'm saying.

For Greenies most people just buy moduals from 0-like.com or somewhere similar. the modules are all ready to go.

I do have a kit for making white lasers. It takes good DIY skills,tweaking and patiance to align the beams well so if that's you and you choose to build one that's great. If it's not you and you would still like to have one; there are builders around that will do it for you if you pay for their time. See my signiture for a link to the White Fusion Kit.


Thanks and good luck whichever way you go,

-Ryan
 
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My advice to you is don't plan on using that "green kit" in a laser scanner.. Due to the fact that any laser used in a projector is modulated (pulsed) rapidly, a homebuilt DPSS laser like that kit will not be stable enough unless you have built many DPSS lasers before and you are experienced enough to make it stable..
 
My advice to you is don't plan on using that "green kit" in a laser scanner.. Due to the fact that any laser used in a projector is modulated (pulsed) rapidly, a homebuilt DPSS laser like that kit will not be stable enough unless you have built many DPSS lasers before and you are experienced enough to make it stable..

Stable in what way? you mean physically stable so nothing moves out of place or thermally stable?

I will probably end up getting an olike green, but I couldn't seem to find a decent 100-200mw for less than $100, that's why I started down the make it myself path. I want to make a min of a 1W scanner overall.
 
Thermally stable, which can be quite difficult from a DIY perspective. DPSS output is prone to large power fluctuations and extreme changes in beam shape. To ensure that these are kept to a minimum requires a bit of know-how.
 
I know this isn't the complaint thread, but I hate ordering things from china.... olike looks like it'll take close to 3 weeks.
My IR goggles still aren't here.
 
Stable in what way? you mean physically stable so nothing moves out of place or thermally stable?

I will probably end up getting an olike green, but I couldn't seem to find a decent 100-200mw for less than $100, that's why I started down the make it myself path. I want to make a min of a 1W scanner overall.

Remember the human eye is a lot more sensitive to green light so you will most likely turn your green way down to output a balanced white and correct balance for other colors. Do you have your modulated drivers picked out yet? I'm liking Flex Mod drivers so far but I havn't finished that build to say for sure.



Thanks,

Ryan
 
Do you have your modulated drivers picked out yet? I'm liking Flex Mod drivers so far but I havn't finished that build to say for sure.

I haven't picked drivers yet, but I'm liking the one I've seen posted somewhere around here that was 1 circuit board and individual power controls, i think it was originally designed to be used with your sled mount.
Although, I think that one had programs built into it rather than using a dac to control them.
 
There is the driver by FireMyLaser that is realy cool but yes it has a controller built in and is not realy what you want for ilda graphics. I tried an RGB driver I got of ebay from a developer named norm that I realy didn't like because the PCB was cheap and the traces came up real easy when I swapped out fixed resistors (needed to set the max current) or remove LD wires. I have 3 Flex Mod drivers from Dr Lava now that I think are worth the little extra cash I paid for them. Jumpers to set range and pots to set your bias and gain current, good solid traces, small board for what you get, specs are good and so far it's been stable but I havn't finished the build with them yet so that is where my experiance ends.

-Ryan
 
The flexmods are great drivers, though somewhat expensive. Do a search on Photonlexicon for the "stan ham" laser diode driver, it's a complete analog driver and would only cost <$12 in parts.

Are you trying to combine 2 green lasers? Why? Green lasers are quite cheap, and for the price of a PBS cube to combine them you could get a cheap, powerful enough green module.
 
The flexmods are great drivers, though somewhat expensive. Do a search on Photonlexicon for the "stan ham" laser diode driver, it's a complete analog driver and would only cost <$12 in parts.

Thanks for the stam ham ref.


Are you trying to combine 2 green lasers? Why? Green lasers are quite cheap, and for the price of a PBS cube to combine them you could get a cheap, powerful enough green module.

He is making white.
 





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