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NUGM03 1W 525nm Laser Diode

The cans are easy to remove with a little practice, just grasp and twist or mount and pry.
Yes I have run mine a lot and unlike the blues these de-canned greens show no degradation, not that I have seen yet anyway.
 





RedCowboy said:
The cans are easy to remove with a little practice, just grasp and twist or mount and pry.
Yes I have run mine a lot and unlike the blues these de-canned greens show no degradation, not that I have seen yet anyway.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Decanned (when not scanned) they are by far my favorite diode ever. Wavelength is super visable and impressive!

I can't remember what I set my current to but I think it's either 1.8 or 2.4A, opting for 1.8A. I think I even went to 3.5A with my PS before any noticeable knee with raw diode output. (No power meter)

Anyway, 2 element lens is the go to lens IMO I've tried Sanwas BE with it but don't really need it or like it.

Can't give this diode enough praise!
 
Well I switched out the driver for a inexpensive 2.3A round LED driver. Wanted the Black buck for another build. Simple on off, no modes. Still alive and works great. Used A LOT and no signs of degradation. A MUST have diode!!!
 
paul1598419 said:
Just curious, but did you happen to measure that driver using the appropriate dummy load forward voltage to see if it is pushing 2.3 amps through that LD?
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Yes I did.. Wouldnt connect without measuring first. No oscilloscope so not sure about spikes. Diode seems tough though.
 
Yeah, we have had problems with LED drivers used for some laser diodes. Not saying that this one used with the laser diode you have will be a problem, just that they have been in the past. Hope it doesn't cause a failure for you. The green diodes might be okay as they seem to be hardier than the reds and blues.
 
Hi, Led drivers well ??? hope it works with the 525nm diode they are awesome diodes . The ball lens can be taken off with no problems to the diode. Just need to read the specs on the diode some state no out gas. Some Blues with a ball lens are filled with a gas to prolong the diodes life so they say.
Paul is correct about the led driver some folks had issues combining them with a laser diode , hope this isn't true in your case.
Rich:)
 
Lifetime17 said:
Hi, Led drivers well ??? hope it works with the 525nm diode they are awesome diodes . The ball lens can be taken off with no problems to the diode. Just need to read the specs on the diode some state no out gas. Some Blues with a ball lens are filled with a gas to prolong the diodes life so they say.
Paul is correct about the led driver some folks had issues combining them with a laser diode , hope this isn't true in your case.
Rich:)
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Thanks for the warning fellas!
No issues yet.... I do realize I'm chancing it without a properly scoped/designed driver. I really need to invest in a decent scope one day and learn how to use it.

No modes, just on- off. Remember they were supposedly good to 15V. Just running them on two lion cells 8.4V max.

Just wondering, would a cap placed between the anode and cathode help with potential spikes? If so and size recommendations..

I bought these drivers years ago and they just sat in a box. Don't even remember where I bought them from.

Hearty diode indeed. Decanned and coupled with a 2 element lens gives a beautiful tight beam. Much better than any other multimode I've tried. Everyone who's seen it needs to pick their jaw off the floor. Been foggy around the DC area lately. Man does it look impressive! The increased eye sensitivity makes it so much more visable than my much more powerful 445nm diodes.

I really wonder about the cans being purged and filled with an inert gas, Personally, I don't think they are. I think the diode window/gball lens protects against back reflection and debris contaminating the facet. Maybe moisture plays a in degradation with the IGnA or whatever semiconductor gain medium the 445nm diodes are made of, a can would help mitigate that even without gas.
 
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Hello good sir,

Have you by any chance measured the wavelength on one of these?

Thank you!
 
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barthchris said:
Thanks for the warning fellas!
No issues yet.... I do realize I'm chancing it without a properly scoped/designed driver. I really need to invest in a decent scope one day and learn how to use it.

No modes, just on- off. Remember they were supposedly good to 15V. Just running them on two lion cells 8.4V max.

Just wondering, would a cap placed between the anode and cathode help with potential spikes? If so and size recommendations..

I bought these drivers years ago and they just sat in a box. Don't even remember where I bought them from.

Hearty diode indeed. Decanned and coupled with a 2 element lens gives a beautiful tight beam. Much better than any other multimode I've tried. Everyone who's seen it needs to pick their jaw off the floor. Been foggy around the DC area lately. Man does it look impressive! The increased eye sensitivity makes it so much more visable than my much more powerful 445nm diodes.

I really wonder about the cans being purged and filled with an inert gas, Personally, I don't think they are. I think the diode window/gball lens protects against back reflection and debris contaminating the facet. Maybe moisture plays a in degradation with the IGnA or whatever semiconductor gain medium the 445nm diodes are made of, a can would help mitigate that even without gas.
Click to expand...

Hi,
Just to play it safe get a SXD driver from DTR preset. And add a heat sink to the IC with Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy. Greens run hot and have a good main heat sink on the host,Copper is best but aluminum will do with enough mass to it. Deep fins with also dissipate the heat from the sink.
Rich:)
398CFC1E-9C96-4490-AE27-243D21716E8F_1_201_a.jpeg724D5AC4-9025-4B2C-B26E-1EC168B8BDF4_1_105_c.jpegF9A7562A-7714-4611-80C1-CDD1D3540D29_1_201_a.jpeg
 
Hi Red,
Thanks I did this for a customer about 2 years ago , still looks good with a ton of sinking for sure. cant beat copper but dont leave aluminum in the back of the bus.... Aluminum with a copper core pressed in is always a treat to.
Thanks buddy..
Rich:)
 
Just curious, Rich. How are you combining the copper cores with the aluminum in contact with the air? The reason I ask is that sinner made a threaded core for the Cyprus II and it just screwed into the outside that was in contact with the air. Or are you using thermal adhesive to make those connections?
 
Hi Paul,
I also seen how he threaded those interchangeable heat sinks. Also he made many hosts with a pressed in copper core without the threaded sink. When I use a pressed in core I also use Arctic alumina thermal compound and mix in 99% pure copper dust. its very fine and mixes well with the compound . its a very good combination together, then I pressing the core with a 1/2ton hand press. Then I face off the front with a facing tool on the lathe. Then sand and polish the front, then sometimes add some highlights with a profiling tool and polish again.
Hope this answers your question buddy. Manual machining take a lot of time in hours compared to a CNC machined host.Milling in a driver shelf also is time consuming .
Rich:)4B6787D7-9874-4F9E-B1AC-BC65D4BD75B4.jpeg0E747E7D-60F0-4250-BDC9-BF8D004C5558_1_105_c.jpeg
 
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