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FrozenGate by Avery

NUBM0G

Its certainly a possibility. I noticed this diode creates a fair bit more waste heat than my G-ball one.

No luck, tried a fresh one and it was the same. She's either a low performer, not happy from being recanned, or its not a true NUBM0G. I have a LaserTree 465 4.1W diode, I'm gonna compare it to that later today and see if maybe I just got sent another on of those instead
Not only is it a possibility, its pretty important
Darktron and I have figured out that output power is directly linked with die temperature. The colder the diode, the more power it outputs. The hotter it is allowed to get (less thermal dissipation), the lower the power

Im talking 1-3W of difference just from heatsink
 





The DTR solid back half with pedestal ring and 20mm front half with press in seat do make good thermal contact and I use a good quality thermal paste to boot, it's obvious that it works well as is evident by the stability of the output when overdriven ...... also my Ophir LPM reads as it should with known diodes at known currents, so I expect it's correct as my Astral LPM from Barnette Unlimited would read a little higher sometimes, for instance my Astral would read my 2020 new old stock DTR NUBM44 in a 20mm copper module as 7.4W where my Coherent ( correction it's an Ophir ) reads it as 7.2W @ 4.5A from a cold start.
My new old stock NDB7A75's in 20mm copper modules read 4.9W @ 3.5A and 5.2W @ 4A with a G2 and my better NDB7875 reads 2.9W @ 2.4A ..... so when my Ophir meter reads 8.6W @ 5A and 9W @ 5.7A from my 1st NUBM0F with a G2, I am confident it's doing at least that much.
 
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My LaserTree 465 4.1W does 5.8W @ 5A (472nm), so its not one of those. The far field spot is just as wide as the NUBM44. Maybe my recanned NUBM0G is just the runt of the litter.
 
The DTR solid back half with pedestal ring and 20mm front half with press in seat do make good thermal contact and I use a good quality thermal paste to boot, it's obvious that it works well as is evident by the stability of the output when overdriven ...... also my Ophir LPM reads as it should with known diodes at known currents, so I expect it's correct as my Astral LPM from Barnette Unlimited would read a little higher sometimes, for instance my Astral would read my 2020 new old stock DTR NUBM44 in a 20mm copper module as 7.4W where my Coherent reads it as 7.2W @ 4.5A from a cold start.
My new old stock NDB7A75's in 20mm copper modules read 4.9W @ 3.5A and 5.2W @ 4A with a G2 and my better NDB7875 reads 2.9W @ 2.4A ..... so when my Ophir meter reads 8.6W @ 5A and 9W @ 5.7A from my 1st NUBM0F with a G2, I am confident it's doing at least that much.
I don't disagree with you, his module is great! I also have the aluminium sleeve to go with the module, but still, it doesn't quite dissipate heat as much as it could

Take a look at this thread where I performed some contact surface area measurements:

DTRs module only has HALF the contact area on the back of the diode as my or Darktron's heatsinks, which isn't ideal for testing diodes past 4A or 7W

There's just no way you'll reach 8W or 9W without a full contact in my opinion, and it's super important for high powered diodes

Gryphon's recapped diode probably has power loss due to the cap's coating being for typical 445-455nm when this diode get's to 470nm when pushed to 5A, so I am not surprised at some power loss there compared to my GBall one
 
My LaserTree 465 4.1W does 5.8W @ 5A (472nm), so its not one of those. The far field spot is just as wide as the NUBM44. Maybe my recanned NUBM0G is just the runt of the litter.

I ordered this one > HERE and it does 6W @ 4.1 - 4.2A with a G2 lens and the bar/spot shows the same divergence as a NUBM44 with the bar/spot being about 48mm wide at 5 meters ( 1 7/8 inch at 15 feet ).

I may order a GBall NUBM0G and see how it does in a Barnette Unlimited 12mm copper module.
 
I ordered this one > HERE and it does 6W @ 4.1 - 4.2A with a G2 lens and the bar/spot shows the same divergence as a NUBM44 with the bar/spot being about 48mm wide at 5 meters ( 1 7/8 inch at 15 feet ).

I may order a GBall NUBM0G and see how it does in a Barnette Unlimited 12mm copper module.
Yeah that's lasertree's NUBM07 for sure, there just aren't any other 465nm diodes out there it could be at these prices
 
I have this diode in the host below with a G8 lens and a driver set to 4A and just now got 5.36W ... that's with a G8 @ 4.0A
The brass extension holds a rolled up length of black 30# cardstock to clean up any small aberrations.

After about 30 seconds it dropped from 5.36 to 5.34W which is pretty darn stable, no doubt the heat-sink is acting as a reservoir drawing off the waste heat.

SANY7217.JPG
SANY7220.JPGSANY7225.JPG
 
I have this diode in the host below with a G8 lens and a driver set to 4A and just now got 5.36W ... that's with a G8 @ 4.0A
The brass extension holds a rolled up length of black 30# cardstock to clean up any small aberrations.

After about 30 seconds it dropped from 5.36 to 5.34W which is pretty darn stable, no doubt the heat-sink is acting as a reservoir drawing off the waste heat.
Sweet little unit!
I will also test the Nubm07 when I receive my sanwu LPM, can't wait for it haha
I also have that ophir head but don't trust the calibration from who I bought it from on ebay
The results will be posted here:
 
I may also order a Sanwu although I need a meter that can read 250W for a big KE array build I have planned, also I would like to have made some smaller hosts to accommodate C-lens pairs and the 3.3X beam expanders for these high divergence MM diodes, all we really need is a slipover for an existing FL host with it's own slip over tube cover. The parts are Driver, Module, concave C-lens, convex C-lens and beam expander. The thumb holes ( one each side ) provide for focusing while protecting the BE.

P.S. I am using 26350's in my 465nm build above which are needed for the 5W+ diodes.
concept520d-jpg.64005

We could use a Convoy S11 like this one.
SANY7227.JPG
I have done this with large handmade parts and fantastic results, but would like to do some more compact corrected builds.
SANY0168.JPGSANY0170.JPG
 
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It's better to start with a length of round bar stock and mill out a shelf so everything stays centered/level and then we can use a slip over cover, the cover can be ornate with groves or smooth.

If someone had compact housings like this for sale on their site I would buy several. ;)

SANY5786.JPGSANY5783.JPG
 
It's better to start with a length of round bar stock and mill out a shelf so everything stays centered/level and then we can use a slip over cover, the cover can be ornate with groves or smooth.

If someone had compact housings like this for sale on their site I would buy several. ;)
Oh heck yeah that would be awesome. We need corrective optics more in our lasers these days!
 
Yes, 9W and soon 13W++ blues into the 470nm range are awesome, but a long line shaped spot isn't, however we can correct that and have some fun beyond the workbench as well. Safety 1st :) of course.

A couple of 13W units pushed to 17W each and combined would be good for 30W+ in a single corrected beam. :cool:
 
Yes, 9W and soon 13W++ blues into the 470nm range are awesome, but a long line shaped spot isn't, however we can correct that and have some fun beyond the workbench as well. Safety 1st :) of course.
I have zero experience in optics, but I'd like to try this out. Maybe you could point me to some available corrective small optics and I could try making a compact unit

I'm already working on an RGB compact laser which is similar in engineering
 
Yes OPT lasers or LiveLaserSystems and there are others and it's easy to do once you do it, once you do you will say it's easy too.

You block up your unit with your laser focused to infinity ( G2 lens ) and centered in the output hole where your BE will thread in. I use a drilled and tapped thumb adjuster as a nut to lock down my infinity focus.

Chock it up so your spot is on your target point 5 meters away or more and set your concave lens and adjust to center on your target ( spot/bar will be very wide ( 4 feet + ) but just center it and adjust rotation so it's not skewed, now set your convex centered to your target, adjust rotation and placement fore/aft until perfect ( spot will be freaking tight like a laser should be, now carefully put a drop of UV curing glue at the edge of your lenses to bond them to your host/shelf and cure with 385nm LED flashlight. Burn baby burn!

I've been using the CRL but want to try this > https://www.ebay.com/itm/266378594386?epid

This deal looks too good but I just bought 1 anyway ( I have not used this exact brand/formula yet ) > https://www.ebay.com/itm/235192568169
 
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I have done this with large handmade parts and fantastic results

Looks totally sick! Agreed we need at least one commercially available host/kit that is setup for cylindrical lens correction. Many have done so here but as far as I'm aware none have been produced at quantities for sale.

P.S. I am using 26350's
That's why we need compact high amp boost drivers. Lazeerer is MIA and @Giannis_TDM is working extremely hard making excellent drivers for us! But having a reliable 5A+ boost driver will mostly eliminate the need for multiple small cells (16340/18350 etc).

The highest amp boost I've found is the 22mm Convoy 6v 8A driver. They also have a 17mm 6v 5A boost driver. I'd love to get setup to test how suitable they'd be for driving LD's. Start-up ripple, Vpp etc.

The chemistry advancements made also means we have the Molicel P28B 18650 with class leading perfomance of 25A continuous, and for those "lower" powered applications the Vapcell F38 3800mAh 18650 with 10A continous. (F38 18650 has almost double the capacity density at 79.2mAh/g compared to 41.6mAh/g for the 26350).
 





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