NUBM06 More fun than a beer soaked slobber knocker.

[RedCowboy]

Yea that box artifact is natural. Sometimes you just don't notice it.

 

[VirtueViolater]

Yea that box artifact is natural. Sometimes you just don't notice it.

I'm gonna try to ignore it lol....
The cu modules are great heat sinks, the lens barrel seems to loosen up pretty quick (the cu is so soft) so I'm thinking of using a brass module w/a cu back half

 

[RedCowboy]

This is a DTR G2

It's neat how the G2 can focus so thin that it can cut material without imparting heat into the adjacent material around the thin cut line.

Good lens for a home CNC to help keep from igniting your work piece.

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This is a SANWU G2

 

[RedCowboy]

I'm gonna try to ignore it lol....
The cu modules are great heat sinks, the lens barrel seems to loosen up pretty quick (the cu is so soft) so I'm thinking of using a brass module w/a cu back half

I don't think that will make any noticeable difference.

p.s. Someone was asking about what the Gball output looked like, here is the 06 with it's original Gball.

 

[Chrisbee]

If I don't start hearing any updates on the 08, I'll probably just get one of these. Either way, I'd like to get in on a group buy if one comes up!
Hint, hint...

 

[RedCowboy]

I know a couple people who are tearing down new projectors right now, they will be found in the wild soon, but the price will probably be in that range anyway.
But at least we know we get good new parts, when a seller jerks the price around and cant get the numbers right of what they are selling, well it's hard to trust that, so I would rather wait for a known 08e, not a possible mislabeled something else, that's why we are waiting, I have the funds, they have the funds, we just cant know what we are getting, so we will get it ourselves.

Hang tight, they are coming.

 

[Chrisbee]

I know a couple people who are tearing down new projectors right now, they will be found in the wild soon, but the price will probably be in that range anyway.
But at least we know we get good new parts, when a seller jerks the price around and cant get the numbers right of what they are selling, well it's hard to trust that, so I would rather wait for a known 08e, not a possible mislabeled something else, that's why we are waiting, I have the funds, they have the funds, we just cant know what we are getting, so we will get it ourselves.

Hang tight, they are coming.

Exactly! This is why I haven't tried buying my own yet! There are just too many inconsistencies with the prices, descriptions, and general marketing right now.

 

[RedCowboy]

I did some more testing with the NUBM06 and a 6X pair, I was surprised that podo's G2 seemed to focus tighter from top to bottom, slowly diverging axis, both produced about a 1/4 inch width at 5 meters, about 75% that of the nubm44.

However DTR's G2 had less artifact and made more power, I did not meter the output, still waiting to get a 30w meter built, but in all burning test DTR's G2 won.

Here's a video, I can get the width a little tighter but nothing is glued down yet so it's running 1mm wide in this clip.

I would like to know what the loss is through these Cyl's, supposedly it's 5%, also a BE could really pull this close to square beam in, I really think the emitter height had grown or they stacked 2 because the divergence is only 75% yet 7.75 watts at 4.5a is on par + with the 44 and the spot is focusing higher, its maybe 1.5 x the height, but I see room to grow and this is a better beam profile.

 

[VirtueViolater]

Hi red, do you have one of those big aluminum mx heat sinks you would sell?

 

[RedCowboy]

No I just make my own now, but FP can do it.

He can make a really cool one, mine are just sturdy but not eloquent.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-custom-machned-aluminum-heatsink-s-45973.html

 

[VirtueViolater]

No I just make my own now, but FP can do it.

He can make a really cool one, mine are just sturdy but not eloquent.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-custom-machned-aluminum-heatsink-s-45973.html

Beauty is not important for this build, just want lots of heatsink and large battery capacity for 4 1/2 5a drivers, hoping to buy some of these new diodes to play with. Running my nubm44 on 4a in a sl host, don't think the heatsinkings good enough for any more. Already ordered the mx.

 

[RedCowboy]

He has some sinks, the 12mm have a 12mm hole with a set screw and the 5.6 and 9mm unscrew into 2 half's to sandwich a diode, but I drill through them and drill and tap a 2 x 2 chunk of bar stock.

If you unscrew the 9mm or 5.6 screw together kind you can use self tapping screws, just pre drill your holes slightly undersized for the self tappers.


http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-budgetbeams-inventory-95965.html


You can get all kinds of round bar and tube on ebay, they can cut it if you ask or get a non ferrous carbide blade, hold your work piece tight and cut slowly. Mine is just a 10 inch 80 tooth and I cut bigger than I should, I just go slow, do so at your own risk.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...kw=2+x+2+aluminum+round+bar+rod+6061&_sacat=0



You can get tap and drill pairs at home depot or ebay, but don't get 6/32 they break easy, get 8/32 and use 8/32 machine screws, they are strong.

 

[VirtueViolater]

He has some sinks, the 12mm have a 12mm hole with a set screw and the 5.6 and 9mm unscrew into 2 half's to sandwich a diode, but I drill through them and drill and tap a 2 x 2 chunk of bar stock.

If you unscrew the 9mm or 5.6 screw together kind you can use self tapping screws, just pre drill your holes slightly undersized for the self tappers.


http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-budgetbeams-inventory-95965.html

Nice!....Thanks R/C

 

[RedCowboy]

It's easy once you get a little practice, just wear safety glasses and be careful, cut slow especially where it's thick.
With a drill and tap set and you can make all kinds of stuff.
Go slow with taps, back them out often and clear the threads, it's better to take your time than snap one off in your part.

 

[VirtueViolater]

It's easy once you get a little practice, just wear safety glasses and be careful, cut slow especially where it's thick.
With a drill and tap set and you can make all kinds of stuff.
Go slow with taps, back them out often and clear the threads, it's better to take your time than snap one off in your part.

Yeah, broken a few taps in my day, im lazy, put em in my cordless drill

 

[RedCowboy]

When you unscrew your MX-900 the reflector unscrews from the front bezel and that plug inside has the spring board with the flashlight driver parts attached to it.

The plug unscrews backwards, clockwise rather than counter clockwise, if is doesn't have the 2 dimples just drill a couple with a small drill bit, and I cut all the driver parts off the board and solder on my wires, I make sure there are no shorts when I am done.

You can buy a blank board but I never do, these take 8 volts at 8 amps just fine as I have tested them and I run my nubm44's @ 4.5a for 5 minutes and never had a problem with a mx-900 board or switch.

Be careful not to pinch your wires when you screw it all together, I twist load mine so they lay in there like a rolled up garden hose.