Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

new to scanners

Hey.. I bought that same one^^ and it came disfunctional. I tried to fix it, but ended up breaking (shorting out) the driver... :(
 





thesk8nmidget said:
that laser is already done and finished.

it has a 500mw green laser wave module that is self cooling and does not need to be mounted on a base plate at all. the laser driver is also self cooling and has two fans on the bottom of the heatsink. and the scanner amps are mounted to a piece of aluminum. the psu's are mounted in a way where the fans circulate ari through them using my fans inside the laser.

this picture describes airflow.
DSCF7956.jpg

the lasers fan and the drivers 2 fans pushes air out the filter on the left, and then there is a another matching filter on the opposite side that you cannot see that lets airflow in and then there is a fan and filter on the top that pulls the air through. all of the parts say cool to the touch.

it is completely sealed besides the filters so i can use it in dusty settings with no worry of my optics getting dirt on them
Click to expand...

Hey Josh, Where did you get that case / housing?

I got the 20k scanner in and you were right, everything is tiny. A CPU case is way overkill on size and a smaller one would be much better.

thanks,
Kendall
 
i actually bought it at frys. if you planning on doing any more colors you will not be able to use that enclosure.

it would be extensive work and small diodes, ie not much power and your dichros would have to be tiny and really not worth the effort. but for single color i would say go for it. but its still a small case. i dont have anymore room what so ever.
 
thesk8nmidget said:
i actually bought it at frys. if you planning on doing any more colors you will not be able to use that enclosure.

it would be extensive work and small diodes, ie not much power and your dichros would have to be tiny and really not worth the effort. but for single color i would say go for it. but its still a small case. i dont have anymore room what so ever.
Click to expand...

sweet thanks. yeah I would use it for just green for now. I'm going to build just a green one first for a DJ and use the $$ I sell it for to build myself a RGV analog

I think I'll go for one of these, looks very similar, thanks for the link above.

Tite Fit Chassis Boxes, Enclosures, Project Boxes. Aluminum Boxes and Plastic Enclosures

I might check out fry's as well though, do some price matching.
edit: I found the same box u have Josh @ Fry's for like $18. I got it :) I found a nice female plug for the PC power cord as well, sorry to totally rip your design but it looks so awesome and will work out great. I'm going to put a few switchs on the outside of it too to turn it off /on.

thanks!
-Kendall
 
Last edited:
I was trying the other day to get the sound activation to work with the supplied 14 channel DMX program board but couldn't figure out how to get the correct settings to make it work.

Here's the manual:
http://www.lasershowparts.com/files/Manuals/SCANPRO/20KPB.pdf

does anyone know the correct DIP switch settings to get the scanner to be sound activated? I have the mic and pot hooked up and everything and tried various settings of:
for DIP 10 to 1,
Sound off * * * * * on on on off
also tried 1 to 10..

it seems to just go in what looks like the demo mode or something, will show a bunch of different shapes and animations then counts to 10 and says thank you, good bye, some japanese characters, then starts over..

anyone know ?

thanks,
kendall
 
I've got those same scanners and I couldn't ever figure that out either.. I eventually just stopped using the DMX board. I'd imagine that Dave from LSP would know..
 
The sound activation on those boards are pretty pathetic, so don't be too worried if you can't get it to work.
 
sk8er4514 said:
I was trying the other day to get the sound activation to work with the supplied 14 channel DMX program board but couldn't figure out how to get the correct settings to make it work.

Here's the manual:
http://www.lasershowparts.com/files/Manuals/SCANPRO/20KPB.pdf

does anyone know the correct DIP switch settings to get the scanner to be sound activated? I have the mic and pot hooked up and everything and tried various settings of:
for DIP 10 to 1,
Sound off * * * * * on on on off
also tried 1 to 10..

it seems to just go in what looks like the demo mode or something, will show a bunch of different shapes and animations then counts to 10 and says thank you, good bye, some japanese characters, then starts over..

anyone know ?

thanks,
kendall
Click to expand...

With sound activation, the dips should be set to, everything "On", except "1,2 and 10", so "Off,Off,On,On,On,On,On,On,On,Off

Also make sure the included Pot and Mic are plugged in to the DMX board.

Heres old video of my Scanpro20 with dmx sound activation

YouTube - WIP Scanpro Test
 
Last edited:
Hey Everyone,

I'm also new to scanners. I want to build something nice, my goals are :

1. Clean but fairly simple graphics. Words and simple shapes are what I really want to achieve.

2. Awesome colour.

To achieve 1 I'm thinking of going with the DT30 "Entry Level" galvo's. From everything I've read and seen this should be sufficient?

To achieve 2 I understand I need to go analog. At this stage I am thinking :

600mw 445nm
200mw 635nm
200mw 532nm

Will this combination give me good mixing?
Should I bother going for the more expensive 635nm as I've suggested or go for a more powerful 650nm?
Is 445nm OK or should I really be biting the bullet and going 473nm (and what is the benefit, beam quality or visibility/mixing?)

Finally - I've read a fair few complaints about ishow... what should I go for instead within a reasonable price?

Thanks in advance!
 
You galvos are an excellent choice, as is your color selection. Analog is a must. Stick with 635nm for red if possible since it's slightly more visible per mW than 650-660nm. Also, put as much red in there as possible. Red is always the least visible color, so more is usually better.

As far as control goes I recommend Pangolin Quickshow. It runs about $600 and includes both control hardware and software. Pangolin is considered the industry standard for professional show laser control, and it's well worth the cost.
 
Thanks for everyone's help thus far, I've got a very rudimentary scanner up and running in my enclosure - while I wait for a friend to CNC up a alu plate with grid of tapped holes (that's when it'll get real serious).

So I have a quick question today - 500mw 635nm vs 1300mw 650nm - which should I go for?

Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top