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FrozenGate by Avery

New 445nm laser doesn't work

S4X

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Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Messages
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Hi,
I received my new laser from survivallaser last saturday and I followed the instructions to assemble it. I put in the two 18650 batteries but I can't turn it on, now I'm worried that the driver or diode is broken but I didn't break the wires during the assembly. I also heard of bypassing the tailcap switch but I don't have any wires right now and I don't know how to do it properly.

Please help, I really don't want to buy a new diode because that won't solve my problem if it's not the diode.

Here are some pictures of the host, batteries and so on:
 

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Did you try folium ( Aluminum Foil ) on the end cap maybe the switch is bad ! did it turn on at all !!
 
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Did you check the contact maybe tare is room for batteries to move inside the laser body !!!
 
I tried the aluminium foil, it didn't work :(
There is no room, the batteries have contact with the driver and the spring in the tailcap.
Thanks for your help, any further ideas?
 
I tried the aluminium foil, it didn't work :(
There is no room, the batteries have contact with the driver and the spring in the tailcap.
Thanks for your help, any further ideas?
I have to ask this but are the batteries in the correct way.
 
That's possible but I don't know how to check it.
But the chance is not very high because the diode and the driver were prefabricated by survivallaser, I just connected the driver and diode with the host.
 
i hope by connecting you means you use solder right?
and those thermal adhesive i hope they're the type that insulate electricity.
have you wire the things correctly?
using aluminium foil might have short the driver.
solder a spring instead.
have you charge the battery?
make sure battery went in the right way. + to the driver -to the tail cap.
 
Hi S4X,
I just built one my self when i put the batteries in it didn't run either,
So try this It was my tail cap Inside the cap there is a Al contact ring It has 2 indentations in it. Take a pair of needle nose pliers opened and put the tips in the indentations and turn them counter clockwise to remove the ring. Now inside you will find a white plastic round isolater ring this ring is to thick on the bottom and that will keep the aluminum ring from contacting the bottom of the switch. Take the white plastic piece and sand down the bottom of it to thin it out a little. Then assemble the switch back to original form. don't forget to tighten down on the aluminum ring. This worked perfect for me and the unit once again was laseing. Make sure the white piece is centered when you screw the aluminum contact ring in place.. Hope this works for you thesis the problem i had. If you built the diode and driver correct it should work it's a fool proof host that Gary sells an easy one .

Rich:)
 
Ok I know what you mean but I can't move the contact ring even a milimeter, how did you move it? :)
 
get a pair of needle nose tweezer. and put the 2 nose into the 2 hole and start turning anti-clock wise.
 
I got it and sanded down the white plastic ring a bit but it didn't work :(
 
Hi ,
Make sure the ring is tightened you can sand it down thin but not to were there's nothing left.
I am just telling you what i experienced with my S4X and i put on a NDG700nm diode.
The only other thing would be is to take the build apart carefully. Test the diode, driver you soldered together with 2- cells taped together in series one end of the Pos+ wire on the cell to the Pos+ wire on the driver and the same for the Neg- wire of the cell to the copper module it should light up but only for a few seconds you don't want to get it hot to. make sure those 2 component aren't damaged. if that works it has to be the clicky. Thats how i tested mine to make sure every thing is working process of elimination.
The contact ring will take a little muscle to get it loose tweezers might be to light and not rigid enough

Rich:)
 
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