Need help with Spyder Arctic III laser mod (Remote Switch activation)

[blue laser research]

I was approved by wicked lasers for the G1 model, but they sent me a Smart Switch version of the laser instead. After waiting for over 3 months I am tired of dealing with them.

What I need to do is have the ability to activate the laser instantly and remotely using my own switch and safety key setup. Is there a way to bypass the smart switch on this laser, or solder my own switch on to the appropriate contact points so that I can have a direct connection to turning it on and off?

Thanks

 

[DJNY]

I won´t do anything if you don´t want to harm your laser or yourself..

 

[udanis]

I was approved by wicked lasers for the G1 model, but they sent me a Smart Switch version of the laser instead. After waiting for over 3 months I am tired of dealing with them.

What I need to do is have the ability to activate the laser instantly and remotely using my own switch and safety key setup. Is there a way to bypass the smart switch on this laser, or solder my own switch on to the appropriate contact points so that I can have a direct connection to turning it on and off?

Thanks

Take out the old driver put a v5 flex driver and put your switch between the flex and the power supply.

 

[Eudaimonium]

Smartswitch is a Microcontrolled unit, and hence difficult to securely bypass.

I would reccomend ditching the driver all together and assembling your own , use the SmartSwitch socket for momentary button, or use it for keylock switch.
With momentary button you can use tailcap clicky to "arm" the laser. With keylock, tailclicky is the primary ignition button .

Either way, driver you need is a boost driver capable of delivering 1.0 - 1.2 A to the laser diode. I would reccomend getting DrLava's MicroBoost driver, see here:
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/Micro_BoostDrive.php

If you are capable of assembling your own driver, then go for it. Make sure to heatsink the driver if possible, you should have more than enough room to make it happen, driver compartment in Spyder III is huge I think.

Anyway, you will need to do some heavy modding. My reccomendation ?
Sell the laser and buy components and parts for a new one which you will make tailored to your needs.

Or just use the driver and module/heatsink assembly and sell the host. Either way, it's better than going through the hastle of modification.

 

[blue laser research]

Thanks, I think I am just going to start fresh. I really like the arctic host, but it just is not easy to work with.

 

[bhuntedx]

Got to agree with you there. While it's functionality is keen, it's a hassle to work with when you only want momentary bursts. Like experimenting and you only need the laser on for a few seconds or even a minute. When you want it off for a moment, you have to go through the whole charade just to turn it back on. What they should have done was add 1 more op for the SS. One that would temp turn off, then back on where you left off. Oh well. They should have polled the client base for ideas instead of cramming too many safety options that make it a pain. Only thing I like about it are the pulsating, half and full power modes.

Thanks, I think I am just going to start fresh. I really like the arctic host, but it just is not easy to work with.