niiii
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Hello everyone, can anyone suggest me some cheap red diode module with output about 300mw+? + any cheap driver... this gonna be my first red laser
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FrozenGate by Avery
Need help with choosing red diode
- Thread starter niiii
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Check out DTR's laser store, he has some pretty cheap 300mW+ red diodes:
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes
-Alex
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes
-Alex
niiii
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Damn, I ordered next m140 from him yesterday... Should order together :/
niiii
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Is there any way to make a build without isolating the heatsink? What driver would you recommend for the diode that greenlander has posted? I have red anodized heatsink and DIY C6 host from survival lasers...
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A flexdrive or a linear driver. The flexdrive is easier to find, unless you want to make an AMC7135 based driver. I did a build with the $21 650nm diode and a 375mA linear driver in a c6 with black anodized heatsink. There's a link in my sig.
niiii
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Id like to make my build clean and dont wanna use any spacers, isolations from host etc... Can you link me any driver for this diode?
upaa27
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Pm dtr. He has a couple of flexdrives that you can get along with your diode.
niiii
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:thanks::thanks::thanks:
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niiii
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Id like to ask one more question and if its this wiring diagram correct? For c6 host with anodized heatsink
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The anodizing probably won't let you get away with wiring it like that. If using the c6, just wire positive and negative Vin to the battery contact board.
hakzaw1
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suggestions
make your first build with parts that will NOT make you sad when you fail--
read and re-read everything about building-- take your time and NO SHORTCUTS
biggest killers at ESD- failing to short all caps every time and trying to set the current in a driver WITHOUT using a dummy load--
also you should AVOID double posting like you did in this thread--you really need to edit them into one post before a mod embarrasses you by doing that FOR you--use edit-copy-paste and delete to do this... there are only a few times when double posting is OK but this is NOT one of those times--
DTR has DIY links at his sales places (like Greedbay) use them--
---
If you dont own a pressing tool for the diode you may want to buy one already pressed and has the wires soldered for you- at that point the danger from ESD or overheating with your iron are much less---
you should also be very aware of duty/rest cycles or a quick death will happen to your Laser.
good luck-----hak
make your first build with parts that will NOT make you sad when you fail--
read and re-read everything about building-- take your time and NO SHORTCUTS
biggest killers at ESD- failing to short all caps every time and trying to set the current in a driver WITHOUT using a dummy load--
also you should AVOID double posting like you did in this thread--you really need to edit them into one post before a mod embarrasses you by doing that FOR you--use edit-copy-paste and delete to do this... there are only a few times when double posting is OK but this is NOT one of those times--
DTR has DIY links at his sales places (like Greedbay) use them--
---
If you dont own a pressing tool for the diode you may want to buy one already pressed and has the wires soldered for you- at that point the danger from ESD or overheating with your iron are much less---
you should also be very aware of duty/rest cycles or a quick death will happen to your Laser.
good luck-----hak
niiii
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Thank you Hakzaw for your tips! :beer: I realized that I have another SL 1.6-2.3a driver... May I use it to power any red diode? Ive found that mitsubishi 500mw can run with 1.6A
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I can build something for you.
I have 300mW Mitsubishi diode, which are not very valuable anymore on the market.
I will add my driver, 3 element glass lens with dust rubber, small housing.
What do you think?
I can also send you all pieces you need with instruction how to set it up
I have 300mW Mitsubishi diode, which are not very valuable anymore on the market.
I will add my driver, 3 element glass lens with dust rubber, small housing.
What do you think?
I can also send you all pieces you need with instruction how to set it up
Last edited:
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The Opnext HL63603TG has treated me well. Mine puts out 185mW at 300mA and is pretty bright, more so than 650/660nm despite the latter being higher power. DTR sells them with driver attached and current preset, with leads, and a nice lens if you want one. For a first build, assuming your experience with electronics is limited (as mine is), these units are great. It's a good way to get used to soldering things, and putting things together in the right order.
As to the host, the C6 is easy to work with and you can get them from Survival Lasers. You'll want the host, a heatsink (copper or aluminum are both fine), a battery contact board, and a good-quality 18650 battery.
SL's battery contact boards work just fine if your hands are steady but watch out for all the exposed metal on them – you just need to avoid accidentally bridging battery positive and ground on it and causing a short. Just go slow and be careful. You can use electrical tape as makeshift solder mask to avoid shorting it out. Flaminpyro sells boards that are easier to work with, in the event your hands are shaky (like mine) and/or you don't want to bother with tape.
The HL63603TG has a nice dot profile, even with the G2 lens. It's my "every-day carry" laser, I take it pretty much everywhere. I have no idea what the duty cycle is – the laser doesn't seem to heat up even if I run it for 10+ minutes straight. It heats up more from my hands than from the diode, even at 300mA as it is. Your mileage may vary.
Those are my thoughts on the matter, good luck and safe (and happy) lasing.
As to the host, the C6 is easy to work with and you can get them from Survival Lasers. You'll want the host, a heatsink (copper or aluminum are both fine), a battery contact board, and a good-quality 18650 battery.
SL's battery contact boards work just fine if your hands are steady but watch out for all the exposed metal on them – you just need to avoid accidentally bridging battery positive and ground on it and causing a short. Just go slow and be careful. You can use electrical tape as makeshift solder mask to avoid shorting it out. Flaminpyro sells boards that are easier to work with, in the event your hands are shaky (like mine) and/or you don't want to bother with tape.
The HL63603TG has a nice dot profile, even with the G2 lens. It's my "every-day carry" laser, I take it pretty much everywhere. I have no idea what the duty cycle is – the laser doesn't seem to heat up even if I run it for 10+ minutes straight. It heats up more from my hands than from the diode, even at 300mA as it is. Your mileage may vary.
Those are my thoughts on the matter, good luck and safe (and happy) lasing.
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