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FrozenGate by Avery

Need help identifying laser module

Fiber lasers are known for being highly accurate and run at a high frequency, ( not the nanometer of the laser of course ) but the KHz setting for the lasers modulation, the higher pulse rate means cleaner lines when etching.

Here's something about IPG's quasi CW pulse width, wow it's shorter than I expected.

Pulse Duration* 0.05-50 ms

Apparently they can be analog modulated.

Individual Quasi-CW Fiber laser pulses can be modulated with analog control to achieve the optimal temporal pulse shape or pulse train for any particular application:
•Multi-pulse for drilling
•Ramp up for pre-cleaning
•Enhanced spike for high reflectivity materials
•Remove porosity or shrinkage pipe in center of weld
•Ramp down pulse used for reducing cracking on crack sensitive materials


Quasi-CW Fiber Lasers
 
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If you don't care then you don't but then why ask about it at all here?

Would think it is worth a phone call or an email--costs nothing asking the people that made it, if you actually want to know. LOL
They may or may not help you as you are not a customer of theirs.


I care otherwise I wouldn't be asking here in the first place. I thought about asking them before posting here too, but then said to myself I'm just an individual so they probably won't. But like you said it costs nothing so I just emailed them.
 
If you don't mind killing it you can try anything, LOL but I would find out what frequency and how long of a PW it can take, your HP 6574A 35a wont get you more than about 30w out anyway if they run at 2 volts and you have 35 amps, but what special needs it may or may not have I don't know, I expect you can hit it with a square wave but sorry I don't have one yet, just some old FAP units that run at 2v

I would find or get the specs, sorry I don't know the particulars.


I'm not sure if I understand your remark about 2v. Do lasers run at that low of a voltage or you are referring to the power supply's voltage? It's a 60V/35amp power supply.

If this laser is similar to the one shown in the graph in my original post, it should only requires about 20amp at 100w.

Also does it needs a collimator lens?

Thank you
 
You have to terminate and polish the end of the fiber, it should be cleaved square as you received it. The end of your fiber is an optical component, it has a numerical aperture determined by the fiber core and cladding diameters. The gradient index ( GRIN ) lens pigtail lets you collimate your fiber output, but I have not used them yet.

Yes you will need a lens, Newport and Thorlabs sell the fiber ends with lens imbedded that screw onto a focusable hand held module, or you can build your own lens arrangement, but what comes out of the fiber will diverge.

You also must heat sink the module which I see you have.

Here is a data sheet for a PLD-30 it's forward voltage is 4.8
I was thinking it would be 2v like the FAP but apparently not.....yours is likely the same but could be different.

https://www.ipgphotonics.com/en/641/Widget/PLD-40+Laser+Diode+Datasheet.pdf

Here are a couple of links to ThorLabs :

https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=4353

https://www.thorlabs.com/navigation.cfm?guide_ID=27
 
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Nice find on those 915nm to 975nm diode arrays. I would have thought the Vf on them would be ~2.5 volts. I was a bit surprised to see them at 4.8 volts. If the fiber on the array was not cleaved to be perfectly perpendicular to the z axis, it is not likely it would be worth while to try to get it done now. I have seen the Thor Labs fiber mounted lenses before. They are a good choice.
 
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I care otherwise I wouldn't be asking here in the first place. I thought about asking them before posting here too, but then said to myself I'm just an individual so they probably won't. But like you said it costs nothing so I just emailed them.

Excellent :gj: I hope they respond with the info you want.
 
Things are just never simple, huh? What happens if I just power it on without polishing the fiber's end? Would the power just be reduced or would it reflect back and cause damage to the diode? How focus or big of the beam would be if it's not collimated? Would it still be able to burn like dpss laser? Maybe I should get this 30w one to learn on first? Seems like a very good price for a 30watts fiber coupled laser. Would it still work if the fiber is shortened?

https://www.closetset.top/ipg-photo...ower-multimode-laser-diode-974nm-p-14493.html

Thank you
 
It's too bad those PLD modules don't have a threaded output like the FAP modules where you could attach a new fiber patch cable with prepared ends.

https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_ID=6221

This video gives you an idea of how the fiber end is conditioned and inspected, I have not done this before, there may be an easier way that I will know by the time I buy mine, lol

When I find more info I will post it, otherwise anyone who has worked with these do chime in.


You would want to terminate the end of your fiber.

https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=6975

Then you can connect whatever you want based on the core and cladding dia. as well as the wavelength.

The big issue is polishing the end of your fiber, I suppose you need a kit, I have not yet done it myself.

https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=1350

p.s. What comes out of the fiber as you have it will diverge quickly, you can burn stuff on a desktop real close....so it needs to be terminated, polished, and connected to a grin lens adaptor and then a nice zoom lens.......at least that would be my plan, that and make it portable with a battery pack and a current regulator, but no pulsing, I would run it CW at maybe 25-30w, so 4.8v @ 12a or so to start......it's a bit of a project

Here is the video from one that's for sale, looks pretty decent although I cant tell what they may have on the end of their fiber, looks like something more than the fiber.... maybe you could clamp the fiber down and experiment with a lens in front of it, but I would put the lens at the end of a short metal tube so any reflections are limited to a shallow angle back towards you and wear safety glasses that attenuate the wavelength you are working with.

 
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I didn't know they made a kit to do that. Do you happen to know how much they want for it? If it isn't too expensive it could be well worth it. I'm sure it would take some practice to get it done well enough to use with a lens.

JEESSS! They aren't giving them away. Expect to pay $300 for the kit. Extras are more. :eek:
 
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That kit is lacking some needed components like the crimping tool and cutting tool. Seems to be for polishing only.
 
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He could possibly use a fiber to fiber splice to join his fiber to a patch cable that's already terminated, or a single end terminated patch cable, it will need to be the same core and cladding diameter MM fiber but with the indexing gel and the splice there's no polishing needed, or so I read.

He will need a fiber cleaver, but there are some inexpensive small ones. > https://www.ebay.com/itm/FC-6S-Prec...039939?hash=item3d55982743:g:ulQAAOSwuHdaVfen

Splice > Also Click the Tutorial Tab > https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_ID=354
 
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Yeah, apparently there are some Chinese tools for cutting and polishing and connecting new optics to the fiber that are less than the ones offered in the US. I guess it remains to be seen if they will work as well.
 
Well it won't be transferring data, but any loss at the splice is heat.

It says guaranteed an average splice loss of only 0.2dB, what would that be in energy if the fiber was transferring 30 watts ?
 
IIRC, that amount of power loss at 30 watts would equal 4.75 watts at the splice in waste heat.
 





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