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FrozenGate by Avery

My first build using a lathe, and my misstakes!

Great looking first build!
That looks like a decent chinese-made lathe, as well. :)
:gj:
 
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sesam said:
Someone wanted to see a picture of my lathe and I promised to, so here it is!
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Metallsvarv B20-IL - Jula AB

It is china-made I guess and kosts around 8000 SEK
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8,000.00*SEK = 1,188.28*USD


Nice!
 
that focus adapter looks nice with the rest of the laser!

I was worried that the mistakes would be pictures of some bloody mess of metal shavings and pieces of fingers!

You gonna try anodizing anytime soon? might be fun to learn as long as you're getting into metal working.

Congratulations, if that is your first build that is went very smoothly!
 
BShanahan14rulz said:
that focus adapter looks nice with the rest of the laser!

I was worried that the mistakes would be pictures of some bloody mess of metal shavings and pieces of fingers!

You gonna try anodizing anytime soon? might be fun to learn as long as you're getting into metal working.

Congratulations, if that is your first build that is went very smoothly!
Click to expand...

Yes, my first build :yh: and yes I have thought about anodizing, but do not know how,
I get some remaining product when I make my circuit boards.
I draw with inc on the board and then I use 35% hydrogen peroxide and 40% hydrochloric acid(HCI) to remove the copper from the circuit bords.
I have wondered about getting this copper back as a nice surface on some things, and in teori it would be possible with normal DC current I think, but if you know how I really want to learn.:beer:
 
Heh, I only mentioned it in passing, but you are on the right track. There are a lot of budding chemists on here, maybe one o fthem will chime in. I think you may need to reduce it a bit to increase the copper concentration, but yeah, I think you just need some DC to plate it out.

Anodizing is supposedly the same sort of process (not the anodizing, just the whole "put it in a solution and zap it" deal), but with more electricity and harsher chemicals, but it ends up putting a protective layer of alumina on the exposed surface of the aluminum thicker than what naturally occurs.
 
Anodizing is not too hard to try. You will need some sulfuric acid, battery grade, from an auto supply store or a friendly mechanic. You can use a 12V battery charger as the power supply. To get started, get a plastic or glass container large enough to contain the part to be anodized. Fill it with a mix of half battery acid, half water. Add acid to the water a little at a time when doing this. You will need a negative electrode made of lead, I used a chunk of bar solder with a piece of plumbers solder soldered to it as a connection wire. Connect this to the negative of your supply. Make sure your aluminum part is perfectly clean, wash it, maybe even dip in a dilute sodium hydroxide solution (lye or drain cleaner) to make sure no grease remains. Attach an aluminum wire (maybe mig wire) to your part, the wire must be aluminum. Any other metal will react and foul up the anodize. Attach this wire to the positive of your supply. Insert the part into the bath and turn on the power supply. Bubbles will slowly begin to come from the solution as the anodize slowly starts. Let it proceed for an hour or so, then the part will have a milky white appearance, remove the part and rinse it carefully in cool water to remove all acid residue. You must then set the anodize and harden it. This is done by boiling the part in boiling water for 20 minutes. Cool, dry, and enjoy. You can do color dyeing of the part, dye bath is after the water rinse and before boiling. You can get the dyes and a proper sealing and hardening solution from caswell plating, www.caswellplating.com. Be careful of acids ....

You can try other dyes. Dye for clothing often works, sharpie markers can work, but the caswell dyes are the proper stuff and not expensive.
 
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billg519 said:
Anodizing is not too hard to try. You will need some sulfuric acid, battery grade, from an auto supply store or a friendly mechanic. You can use a 12V battery charger as the power supply. To get started, get a plastic or glass container large enough to contain the part to be anodized. Fill it with a mix of half battery acid, half water. Add acid to the water a little at a time when doing this. You will need a negative electrode made of lead, I used a chunk of bar solder with a piece of plumbers solder soldered to it as a connection wire. Connect this to the negative of your supply. Make sure your aluminum part is perfectly clean, wash it, maybe even dip in a dilute sodium hydroxide solution (lye or drain cleaner) to make sure no grease remains. Attach an aluminum wire (maybe mig wire) to your part, the wire must be aluminum. Any other metal will react and foul up the anodize. Attach this wire to the positive of your supply. Insert the part into the bath and turn on the power supply. Bubbles will slowly begin to come from the solution as the anodize slowly starts. Let it proceed for an hour or so, then the part will have a milky white appearance, remove the part and rinse it carefully in cool water to remove all acid residue. You must then set the anodize and harden it. This is done by boiling the part in boiling water for 20 minutes. Cool, dry, and enjoy. You can do color dyeing of the part, dye bath is after the water rinse and before boiling. You can get the dyes and a proper sealing and hardening solution from caswell plating, www.caswellplating.com. Be careful of acids ....

You can try other dyes. Dye for clothing often works, sharpie markers can work, but the caswell dyes are the proper stuff and not expensive.
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Thank you, I will try this with my focusing-rings that I have done for my second build here. They Are pure aluminium so I guess I want need nitric acid.
I will Present my new build soon, just have to anodize a little bit first :)
 
sesam said:
Here are most of the parts together
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My driver was prepared and soldered to the diod, I had tested it and it was working fine.
Now I decided that I should add a capacitor and a diode 1N4001 so that I also could use rechargeable batteries.

So I did, and tested it, it was still working fine and looked like this
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(at this time I am starting to get a bit eager, not mutch left before its done, but at the same time a little sloppy)

Now I could not get the driver through the 11mm hole any longer so I had to desolder the diode, and I had to increase the hole for the driver to 14mm with a drill.
Okey when this was done I put everything together and put in the batteries.
attachment.php

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I clicked the button and NOTHING HAPPEND :wtf:
After looking carefully I could see a tiny violet light and nothing more.
I first thought I had damaged the driver when pushing it in, but the driver was fine and the diode was DEAD (RIP)
Normally I use a tiny plier when soldering diods, just to get the heat away from them, but this time "I DID NOT":tsk:

My lessen is that it's just that easy to damage a diode as the veterans on this forum has said in many of the treads.

Now I am waiting for a new 405 diode :drool:
I will post some beamshots when the package from DTR arrives !
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You need chucking reamers. They work better than drills.
Chucking Reamers & Sets
 
i have that exact same host but in silver, im doing a lpc-826 build in there, but why did you put all your parts in the heatsink? there is plenty of space in the top section where the led's are meant to be.

but still, a good first build, looks solid, good luck with the anodizing
 
daawood123 said:
i have that exact same host but in silver, im doing a lpc-826 build in there, but why did you put all your parts in the heatsink? there is plenty of space in the top section where the led's are meant to be.

but still, a good first build, looks solid, good luck with the anodizing
Click to expand...

I just used standard components not smd, and I choose 3 CR123 to get the voltage needed, and It was a learn by building project!

As soon as I have mastered anodization I will present my next build, still a learn by doing build, but I did some measuting before this time, and then selected better sized components and batteries.

Be patient, it will be presented soon.
 
daawood123 said:
i have that exact same host but in silver, im doing a lpc-826 build in there, but why did you put all your parts in the heatsink? there is plenty of space in the top section where the led's are meant to be.

but still, a good first build, looks solid, good luck with the anodizing
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Why did you neg rep me, sir? You asked for rep back. Should I neg rep you too? :)
 
ahh, im soo sorry, im quite new to this, but im sure i +repped you. my apologies again
 
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