My Arctic maybe faulty now?

[denodan]

well a different 445 in the same host will do you no good, its the tail cap thats causing the problems.

It's not the tailcap, has good contact, also what dot I do get is now different, and also some extra artifacts in the dot. It's not clean anymore.

 

[TheTeslaWarrior]

my arctic had the same problem and it was the tail cap try bridging it with a wire.

 

[denodan]

Where does the wire go to?

 

[TheTeslaWarrior]

take the tail cap off then put the wire from the battery (+) to the silver threads

 

[denodan]

take the tail cap off then put the wire from the battery (+) to the silver threads

No made no difference. My laser accually turns on with full battery indication, but the beam has less power then a 1 watt laser.

 

[TheTeslaWarrior]

might be the battery then

 

[denodan]

might be the battery then

Not the battery, I have 4 18650 batteries and the same on all batteries, and made sure they where fully charged.

 

[TTerbo]

test the current draw then

 

[denodan]

Why would that suddenly be a problem when one minute my Arctic was going great, then all of a sudden not going properly and on all of my 18650 batteries which are all pretty new. They all work on my other laser, no problems and last a long time.

 

[rangedunits]

This is hilarious, we should have a list of broken/faulty arctis.

I am sorry for you though.

It would be much more easy to have a list of those that work correctly, if there was any...


:crackup:

 

[TheTeslaWarrior]

It would be much more easy to have a list of those that work correctly, if there was any...


:crackup:

you can't list whats not there LOL

 

[JonWienke]

My arctic works just fine, thank you very much.

 

[daguin]

Why would that suddenly be a problem when one minute my Arctic was going great, then all of a sudden not going properly and on all of my 18650 batteries which are all pretty new. They all work on my other laser, no problems and last a long time.

Measuring the current draw at the battery (without the tail switch) will tell you if the diode, the driver, or the switch went bad.

Normal current + no light = bad diode
Low current + no light = bad driver
normal current + bright light = bad switch

Peace,
dave

 

[Razako]

Soooooo glad I canceled my arctic. These things are looking awful and I don't wanna think about how screwed up the complicated g2's will be.

 

[Tech_Junkie]

il trade you your arctic for a ~200mW pen i got

......sorry.

 

[denodan]

Had an email back from WL and are going to replace it with a G2, pity it's the G2, button combos are a hassle. A least they are going to replace it, got an RMA number, so Friday will send it back.