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FrozenGate by Avery

Mains/earth ground

Grounding in most places was basically an afterthought after the electrical distribution system was installed, neutral should theoretically play the role of ground, but it's still a separate wire that runs back to the transformer, usually right beside the live/hot wire. It's possible that both could be damaged in such a way live could end up connected to neutral in your sockets, which, if the device used neutral as it's chassis ground (which, thankfully, they rarely do), would end badly. Having a separate wire that runs into ground straight outside your house means you're safe regardless of any faults that could arise on the line between you and the transformer (as even if you have a GFI installed, should the neutral line become damaged, it's essentially useless)

In some places they use an earth return system - basically very remote areas that would otherwise not be cost effective to run a full service power line to - they run just a single wire and use the ground as neutral/return. However the quality of the power is usually quite bad - so most places like this will have something akin to an online (or at the least, line interactive) UPS to get it back to an acceptable level.

As for the generator, it'll run fine without being grounded, but once again it's simply a safety precaution if for some reason the chassis becomes live. Luckily at 50/60Hz capactive coupling is pretty much a non issue, so the only real way it'd become live is through something like insulation breakdown. If the generator is used as a backup for powering your house (as in, you have a dedicated socket on the power panel to plug it in), chances are it'll already be connected to your grounding rod too.
 
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Sounds like a plan. Do you have any interesting links about those class-Y capacitors?

I'd have to try and dig up the info on 4HV.org. If I get a chance I'll pull up my stash and find the part numbers for you, if you'd like. Just PM so I remember, please.
 
In Canada we bond our main house panels to ground via 1 ground plate, usually under the footing on new construction or buried a minimum of 3 feet of depth. Or 2 ground rods 10 feet long and 10 feet apart. Both situations are bonded to the panel with #6 AWG copper at the neutral buss.

The point is so that no part of an appliance may become live in the event of a malfunction.
If say an appliance has a live wire come loose and contact the metal frame, you now can become part of a bad situation if you were to touch said appliance and something like the sink that is grounded through the copper plumbing pipes.
 
We have TNCS where the feed to the house is 2 core , neutral and earth combined and line , they then get separated at the intake inside the house .

TNS is where the earth , neutral and line are all separate from the sub transformer to the house , but neutral and earth are tied together at the transformer .

Last is TT that uses a earth rod if the Ze values are to high in the other systems .
 
Thanks for the help guys!


I'd have to try and dig up the info on 4HV.org. If I get a chance I'll pull up my stash and find the part numbers for you, if you'd like. Just PM so I remember, please.

No need, you already helped a lot. I'll do some research there.
 
Both!

Actually, I recommend three implementations;

1) at the TC.
2) at the outlet the TC will be used at.
3) At the outlet of any sensitive equipment (pc, TV, modem/router/etc).

They're harmless to install, but offer excellent protection to noise. Also, they marginally improve power factor of your house wiring.
 


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