busman2
0
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2014
- Messages
- 464
- Points
- 28
Well I have made a few of these now and they are all pretty simple builds, just need a few basic tools and a little bit of handyman knowledge wouldn't hurt but not essential.First off you need a 12mm 532nm laser diode module with driver attached, get one with the spring on it as it will save hunting around for them. There are so many places out there that that sell these modules but ebay seems to have the largest range from a $!0 10mW up to an $80 200mW. Then you will also need the host and heat sink. I got my hosts from DX and heatsinks from livinloud but you can get both from Survival lasers at a total cost of under $20 at time of writing. I am sure there are other places too!
The Host
Dissasembled, put aside all that is NOT black as it is not needed.
Prepping the host with the dremel and wire brush removing all the anodising from inside and outside threads to make for good electrical contact current flow! I believe you can also use some types of oven cleaner to remove the anodising but be careful!
Next I have found it helpful for better electrical contact through the threads is to get some adhesive copper tape and do a single wrap around all the male threads. in this photo I have used a wider piece that can be pushed down into the heat sink housing to make sure the sink has good connection to the host.
The copper tape is thin enough to allow the parts to thread back together easily as long as you ply do one lap and a slight overlap.
Next you will need to prep the Diode module and if you have one that already has the spring on it then it is just a matter of a small solder job by-passing the switch, if it has no spring then you need to get one and solder that on too! I get mine from DTR and Flamingpyro. Both members here!
If your module has the wires attached just desolder or chop them off, then use a piece of that same wire to solder to opposite pins each side of the switch, DON'T let it get to Hot!
Next place Module into heat sink and tighten retaining screw.
Screw all parts back together leaving tail cap till last. Remember that these Modules are Case Positive which means you place the positive end (nipple) of the battery towards the tail cap! Make sure that the laser end is not facing you whilst doing this as the switch may be on and you could get flashed!
Some for a special project I have been doing. From 200mW to 40mW and others in-between. You can also purchase the warning stickers. I got mine from Survival lasers and the Holographic ones from Nick at innovative lasers.
These beam shots were 20 sec exposure so are a bit overcooked. but this was a around a 40mW diode that was sold as a 5mW and you have no problem whatsoever seeing the beam at night!
Well there you go, a fair dinkum do it your self cheap but robust and classy build. If you have not done one yet I suggest you start ordering the parts now!
The Host
Dissasembled, put aside all that is NOT black as it is not needed.
Prepping the host with the dremel and wire brush removing all the anodising from inside and outside threads to make for good electrical contact current flow! I believe you can also use some types of oven cleaner to remove the anodising but be careful!
Next I have found it helpful for better electrical contact through the threads is to get some adhesive copper tape and do a single wrap around all the male threads. in this photo I have used a wider piece that can be pushed down into the heat sink housing to make sure the sink has good connection to the host.
The copper tape is thin enough to allow the parts to thread back together easily as long as you ply do one lap and a slight overlap.
Next you will need to prep the Diode module and if you have one that already has the spring on it then it is just a matter of a small solder job by-passing the switch, if it has no spring then you need to get one and solder that on too! I get mine from DTR and Flamingpyro. Both members here!
If your module has the wires attached just desolder or chop them off, then use a piece of that same wire to solder to opposite pins each side of the switch, DON'T let it get to Hot!
Next place Module into heat sink and tighten retaining screw.
Screw all parts back together leaving tail cap till last. Remember that these Modules are Case Positive which means you place the positive end (nipple) of the battery towards the tail cap! Make sure that the laser end is not facing you whilst doing this as the switch may be on and you could get flashed!
Some for a special project I have been doing. From 200mW to 40mW and others in-between. You can also purchase the warning stickers. I got mine from Survival lasers and the Holographic ones from Nick at innovative lasers.
These beam shots were 20 sec exposure so are a bit overcooked. but this was a around a 40mW diode that was sold as a 5mW and you have no problem whatsoever seeing the beam at night!
Well there you go, a fair dinkum do it your self cheap but robust and classy build. If you have not done one yet I suggest you start ordering the parts now!
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