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FrozenGate by Avery

LED Driver To laser driver






The concept is interesting: using a 3-AAA battery barrel.

What i'd presonally do is this: Disable any and all regulation from the flashlight (usually just a resistor), and convert the 3-battery barrel so it can hold 2 10440 lithium cells. This will give you 7.2 volts to work with.

Also, it will leave one of the AAA slots empty, which will provide enough space to fit a linear driver that you can solder right in place, so you do not need any extra space in the host at all. You may need to tweak the connections on the battery holder, but thats doable in most cases.

Obviously you still need to fit the laser/aixiz/etc in the proper place, but at least you dont have to worry about space for the driver.

You can also keep using the tailcap switch, as long as your driver as decent start-up behaviour (most do).
 
Doesnt seem all that well regulated despite its description then... different current for different emitters seems very odd - perhaps its a constant voltage rather than constant current design, which could work okay for some LED flashlights, but would not be advisable as a laser driver.

It could also be a constant current design with 20% or so tolerance, but looking at the picture that need not be so bad, since there is a resistor pair that is more than likely to set the output current or voltage and can be adjusted to your requirements.
 
It should output 1,25A to all emitters, DX doesn't exactly have the best product descriptions. The 1,25A is dead stable and regulated according to my multimeter.
 
Okay - its just DX that got it wrong than... happens often enough.

Have you been able to change the current setting, or do you run the laser at 1.25 amps?
 
I haven't actually got the diode yet, but I plan to run it on 1,25A. There is not pot or obvious resistor on it.
 
I see a pair of fairly obvious current setting resistors on it (the small ones), but repacing those could be a daunting task if you have no experience with SMT soldering work. Just google the chips part number when you get the driver and that should yield a datasheet with specs for those resistors. Perhaps you can solder one in parelel with one of the existing ones to get it right - its often easier to do than actually replacing those pesky little things ;)
 
Oh, hehe. I'm still new to electronics :)

But I don't plan on doing anything with the driver yet, ~1,25A is perfect for my needs..
 
That would be even nicer. You can use 2 CR123s and use the remaining space for the driver and laser module, or go for a 18650 battery and boost driver if the diameter permits.
 
I've done a bit of poking around CPF and various LED driver sites to find a suitable driver for the 445nm diodes. TaskLED.com has some good ones (MaxFlex would work at high currents)

I am interested in using the UI from them to have adjustable power outputs for my upcoming 445. I'll post back again if I end up using one.
 
awlego said:
I've done a bit of poking around CPF and various LED driver sites to find a suitable driver for the 445nm diodes. TaskLED.com has some good ones (MaxFlex would work at high currents)

I am interested in using the UI from them to have adjustable power outputs for my upcoming 445. I'll post back again if I end up using one.
Click to expand...

Impressive find, looks like that may just be the answer to the casio 140 riddle. Its a bit spendy but looks like it can handle the current draw easily and >85% efficient? HANDY
 
If your Vin is a lot higher than your Vout, the thing makes enough heat to desolder the chips right off.... Heatsinking might be a good idea ;)
 
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