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FrozenGate by Avery

LaserPhysics Reliant 300WC help

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So... you've repaired electronics for 20 years, but you're not sure how to handle a popped diode bridge?
 
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Cyparagon said:
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So... you've repaired electronics for 20 years, but you're not sure how to handle a popped diode bridge?
Click to expand...



no, i've just been in the electronics repair field long enough to know NOT to jump head first into expensive electronics that are not in my exp, rather to query others to see if this is a common problem and make sure that any other bases are covered. o.o
 
from my air cooled memory bank
suck don't blow ( thru the head)
so my squirrel cage had to be inside a box in order to draw air.
IF not connected be sure to let the fan run after you are done for cooling.
I attached 9 pcs Kasio 'mity' fans together 3x3-
happened to fit perfectly on top a square Argon head
pulls a lot of air but at full power- not enough for ML argon 147 mW-- thank GOD for auto thermal shut down--

140cpm iirc
on stock fan from DNA sequencer harvest.
I also have used HD Aluminum dryer duct for round head Argons.
 
Yes. Exactly correct. Always blow away and out. This keeps the tube cleaner and helps prevent uneven cooling. My uniphase uses a 130 CFM blower pulling air axially through it I believe. My omnichrome 643 whitelight has dual 150 or 200 CFM fans (I don't remember which) that are mounted on top and pull Air through the sides and exhaust out the top. Argon-krypton lasers need extra and very carefully considered cooling generally.
 
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When I got my first argon I thought it made no diff BUT was very wrong-
AND the first time I overheated and it shut down-- I was SURE I ruined it!!
Started to kick my own ass!!
It must be allowed to cool before it will start again...
and since then it has only happen once more..

I do not always do my monthly 30 min run.. been lucky they always fire up.
I tend to remember better during our winters.. & in the summer I vent the hot air outside..(not do-able unless you are pulling air thru..)

try this
while running an argon break out a 532 pointer-- no idea why but... in the presence of 488nm 532 looks VERY YELLOW!!!
 
That's interesting, Hak. My 488nm Argon looks light blue to me, but I never looked at it next to a 532nm before. My mistake. I thought you meant the 488nm looks yellow, not the 532nm. It's been one of "those" days. I'll have to try it and see what the 532 looks like next to my 488.
 
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hakzaw1 said:
try this
while running an argon break out a 532 pointer-- no idea why but... in the presence of 488nm 532 looks VERY YELLOW!!!
Click to expand...

I've always found that to be a fascinating effect. It happens with other lines as well, when compared with others. I'm amazed at how violet 450nm looks when you have a 476 or 488 line next to it, but when 450 is alone with 520nm it appears normal blue to me.

I do not always do my monthly 30 min run.. been lucky they always fire up.
I tend to remember better during our winters.. & in the summer I vent the hot air outside..(not do-able unless you are pulling air thru..)
Click to expand...

Depends on the type of tube, I have an argon that sat in a shed for many years and it fired up on the first shot. I even have a couple tubes on the shelf that are essentially brand new and never used, except for initial burn in. One hasn't been fired in many years, the other I put in a head to see if it would work and it fired up on the first shot. Lexel made great argons!
 
If a relatively small tube is fairly new and the cathode is in good shape, and has no gas reservoirs it shouldn't care too much if it sits a while, as long as its not years and years... Older tubes will tend to be the more picky ones when neglected.
 
^^^ I have always envied your gasser list--
A LEM needs happen near enough for you to bring your best..
You could blow minds with Gas Lumia BTW..
DO you have a fav??
I love my 6 mW yellow from Dr Sam( in person at SELEM $350-no PS)..2nd is my ML Argon then my REO greens.

so.. does a yellow pointer look GREEN around 488?? lol
 
Finaly found some time to clean off one of my workbenches so i have some room to inspect well, photograph and start the repairs.....

heres some decent higher res "before" photos, incl a nice closeup of the rectifier diodes (you can see one has bulged out on the bottom and the other two are charred).

Ar-Kr White Line Laser by fritzhid | Photobucket

more photos to come as progress occurs. i don't have tons of time to work on this as much has i'd like ATM but i'm hoping within the next 2-3 weeks we will all be seeing some lovely beam shots of this beautiful laser operating properly. :D
 
looking at the bottom of the board, there's virtually no pads/barrels left and the board itself is pretty badly delam'd so.... thinking i'm going to have to replace these Off Board style, just need to make sure to keep them away from any hot spots. i'll shrink wrap them to prevent shorts but as far as soldering in orig spot, not worth the trouble of replacing the pads and barrels.
 
:::UPDATE:::

Had some free time this morning and decided to atleast get the bad components removed.... results are..... lost 4 pads, 3 barrels and about 0.5in of trace that was running underneath the diodes.... none of which is detrimental to the repair since there are plenty of other locations to solder to for the replacements. unfortunately i am going to have to grind into the PCB far more than i'd like in order to remove the carbon fouling and other FOD to prevent any shorts. (PITA)
Hopefuly i can find some more time this week to finish off the repair and begin testing this weekend (how nice would it be to have a pretty white beam bouncing thru the house while the Mrs. and I have cocktails and Tunes? :D )
 
i got a burr up my ass and decided to take a "mental health" day... and we all know what geeks like us do with mental health days ;)

Ladies and Gentleman....
i present to you.....
A Working White Line Ar/Kr Gas Laserphysics WC300!!!!!!!!!!!! :D :twak:






TY Everyone for your advice and assistance and a special TY to Sam for his tips!
...now just to figure out the fan issue..... after about 10 mins the heat causes the cowl to expand just enough to start catching the blades, then it of course slows down, causing more heat, causing more expansion, slowing the fan even further.... :banghead: so i'm either going to go full replacement with a quieter SCF and umbilical outdoors OR i'm just going to pull the stock fan and take a dremel to it and grind some of the cowling down so it clears the blades
 
Well done on fixing it up! Congrats on making all of us gas-heads (That don't have whitelights) jealous. :D
 
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