Kryton Groove Assistance Needed.

[Speedy78]

I solder the driver to the diode pins, then solder a a spring to driver and have it extend just past the battery stop on the inside. Battery will bottom out on the host and only apply a little pressure to the spring. Still adequate contact though.

The snap ring you need needle nose pliers with tiny ends. Or a snap ring tool. If you have a cheap set of pliers just grind the tips down and use that.

No idea about the anodizing.

I can't recall seeing many 405s. I just put an M140 with a Mohhgasm 1.8A linear in one tonight. 1.6W with a 3 element

Edit: Don't bottom out the lens in the focusing adapter or you wont get any sort of focus. I used a dab of epoxy on the lens nut threads and screwed it into the focusing adapter a couple turns. Let it harden so It wouldn't move then just screw it into the front.

You must have missed it.

 

[IsaacT]

Ah okay....I may try to get it just right so that when screwed all the way in it is at infinite focus. I like my hosts to stay looking sleek while focused.

 

[Speedy78]

I got lucky and there is a very small gap. If you want it to remain focused to infinity I would recommend screwing in the lens without the focusing adapter with a dab of epoxy on it. Once at the proper focus let it sit and harden. Then screw on the focusing adapter until it bottoms out. You end up with a fixed focus that wont move and that sleek look. You just lose any ability to adjust focus.

 

[scumbagatheist]

What the hell happened to my subscription to this thread??

Anyway, Isaac, I am using 3 element lenses on all of my single-modes now. I had to part with my G-2 lens. It's cool, because they all look very nice and balanced, and this collection isn't built for burning...though it does well. ~450mW w/ the 3 element lens.

I do not like the long spring method, personally, as I sheared off diode pins because of flexing. I build all of mine with a contact board with lots of soldered wire around the perimeter, lots of thermal silicone epoxy, and wire.

This method works very well for me, and I haven't killed a 3.8mm diode since adopting it. I'd rather mess with fitting a contact board in the tube than bending a wire spring while attached to my diode.

I like to set my focus knob as tightly as I can when at infinity. To do this, it's usually just lots of thread tape and adjustment after adjustment on threading until I get it just right.
This will certainly tell you if your modules or diodes aren't pressed perfectly!

 

[Laik]

I could tell the difference when i deanodized my kryton. I did it with some oven cleaner (mine puffed up when sprayed, but it doesn't matter). If you use something strong like oven cleaner/drain cleaner, you only need to leave it in their for about 2-3 minutes if you massage it/scrub it.I still haven't built mine yet because of finances.