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FrozenGate by Avery

Kenom's laser meter impressions and pictures

Thanks for posting this, Amnizu.

About the sensor and oil matter, I wonder if Kenom can include some sort of lid to cover the sensor while the machine isn't in use...
 





Actually what I was going to do was take a label from a cd and put it over the hole to clean up the cut marks for the hole I made.  but it's too small.

I wouldn't worry about the alcohol leaving traces behind insomuch that the surface is "rough" You wouldn't be able to put anything on it like a cloth without it tearin up the cloth. It's got like a sand paper feel to it on a drum head. the thing feels hollow underneath and makes an odd sound as you slide your finger across it.
 
Ill take your word for it. :)

I just received mine yesterday and I love it. My DX 30 averages around 34mW with a 38mW peak, so far. I wish my red DIY hadn't died so I could check it out. :(
 
Razako said:
[quote author=Switch link=1204059317/0#3 date=1204073190]That looks very nice.I wish I could afford one :-[ Anyway, good luck on becoming the king of the word kenometer :D

On another note: If you concentrated all your finger heat into a tiny spot, could you light a match with your finger? :-/
I have heard that the average person gives off about as much heat as a 90 watt light bulb.  If it was all concentrated in a tiny spot it could easily burn things.[/quote]

Wow, that's a real "Matrix-ey" question! I've never thought of that... :o I imagine it might be as a power circuit works off of series or parallel, would the heat of our body collaborate and "stack", multiplying in intensity when figured into ratio of the span of the average 170lb person into a single dot, or would it make no difference at all? That is a crazy mind boggler! :-/
 
I tested my friend's Aries-175 yesterday for about 3 minutes and though it dropped a bit initially, once it warmed up it stayed around 250 minimum, spiking around 280 for the better part of that 3 minutes. Go Laserglow go.

edit for speeling
 
Poo. On second look, it seems my DX 30 puts out a peak of 40mW..with 10 of that being IR. If only I knew where's that spare filter I have..
 
.
Hey Guys,
    :)

My KENOMETER arrived safely and the first thing my boy did was to stick his finger in there, so I was going to ask the cleaning question as well.
I don't think it will hurt it as long as there aren't repeated oil transfers.
Now what to clean it with???????
Thinking of those heavy duty sponge sticks for tape head/other cleaning uses.
Rat-Shak use to carry them.
Those should hold up perfect and not leave behind any of itself on the rough surface.
As for a solution, I would lean more towards something less harsh, but would still get oils, maybe windex?

But it works GREAT!

Another satisfied customer here!

And I didn't throw it across the room when my WL 125 Fusion only produced a peak of 93mw after 45 seconds and by 60 seconds it is starting to overheat and dropped to around 75. Ten more seconds and it can drop to 55mw and stabalize there, but feeling warm at this point. All this on brand new batteries. So it is JUNK! Go figure, WL Strikes again!

Great Review here with plenty of support for any reader to have no doubts as to how nice these meters work!
So Thank You to Ken for a Nice Unit. Keep up the great work!  ;)

Regards,
  Joe

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

.
 
Glad everyone is happy with thier meters. I apologize again for this taking so long to reach everyone's hands and to those that are still waiting, I'm still waiting for parts, but as you can see it's worth it!
 
Are these still available? and they do measure IR light well?
i work with anywhere between 650nm to 1064nm lasers, and upwards of 300mw to 2w+ for cutting/engraving use.
it would be nice being able to certify an exact power rating on my own rather than guessing

Thanks!
 
Kenom said:
Actually what I was going to do was take a label from a cd and put it over the hole to clean up the cut marks for the hole I made. but it's too small.

I wouldn't worry about the alcohol leaving traces behind insomuch that the surface is "rough" You wouldn't be able to put anything on it like a cloth without it tearin up the cloth. It's got like a sand paper feel to it on a drum head. the thing feels hollow underneath and makes an odd sound as you slide your finger across it.

There are 2 reasons to avoid touching the sensor:
1. to avoid removing the anti-reflective black coating - which would decrease the accuracy by allowing some of the light to be reflected instead of absorbed - but this can be fixed with black matt spray paint or even soot
and
2. more importantly - there are a whole bunch of tiny thermocouple wires behind the disk that break with very little force and cannot be repaired!

Also, the maximum recommended energy density for the laser dot on the disk is 200mW/sq. cm. which is several times that of most photo-sensors

Thanks, Kenom for the info you posted on how to DIY this thing, I was able to build my own for around $50 and it is well worth the effort! Also, the people selling these sensors on ebay are great to do business with
 
i recieved my kenometer yesterday, packaging couldnt have been any better!
im surprised about the size and quality of build, much better than i couldve expected. i was expecting a size 9 shoebox kind of thing but its really much smaller and professional looking.
the bright blue display looks awesome and the love the zero function, its so simple to use.
ive not been able to walk last few days, nursing a swollen ankle so not had much time to play with this yet, but managed to take a pic or 2.
thanks alot Ken for a great piece of kit! :)
 

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I truly wish I had access to more of these. Now I do have some boards but no heads. If you have a surplus head that they need a unit for I can set ya up.
 





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