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FrozenGate by Avery

If you've been looking for a GreeNe, read this.

cheech226 said:
not sure what the oc is. i have looked into the beam end to verify the shutter is open. no rattles in the tube. the power supply makes no sound when connected to 120vdc. and the output is only about 1.8v. i'm going to contact the seller, there's a 30 day return, see if he'll swap it out.
i really appreciate your help qumefox, thanks. it's been frustrating. got away from it for an hour and built a 12x 405, it worked at least. ;-)
Click to expand...

I thought you had posted that the last output you tested
was around 1600V. How come it is only 1.8 V now...:thinking:

What is the Blue wire for on your PS...:thinking:
How long do you leave the power on the tube... some Laser PS
have a few seconds delay before kicking on..

@Qumefox...
thanks for the heads up... I would have thought that it would
be close to 5mW since the 632.8nm tubes I have that are marked
5mW Max on them actually put out ~5mW when warmed up.


Jerry
 
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Well, green is pretty much one of the lowest gain lines.. If you look at the plasma discharge.. it actually makes you wonder.. How the hell do they even get green out of that? lol. Green beam from orangish pink glow. :D

These tubes are rated for a 1.5mW minimum actually I believe. The 5mW is just on the 'warning label' which is usually generic so they can stick it on a bunch of different lasers. You get a lot higher powers for 632.8 per inch of tube length because that's a much higher gain line..

I will have to say though. 2.3mW of 543 is actually much brighter than I thought it'd be. I really can't wait for my 612nm to get here now, even though it's only 1mW.
 
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lasersbee said:
I thought you had posted that the last output you tested
was around 1600V. How come it is only 1.8 V now...:thinking:

i was using an old dmm and had it set wrong. with my new one and fresh bat i get 1.8v

What is the Blue wire for on your PS...:thinking:

it is for 220vdc.

How long do you leave the power on the tube... some Laser PS
have a few sends delay before kicking on..


had the power on for at least 5 minutes.

thanks for the interest jerry, i'm just newbee with these tubes and am reading up as fast as i can.


Jerry
Click to expand...

btw i really like the analog laserbee - no driver conflicts
 
qumefox said:
Ok.. for starters.. throw away that two wire cord and get a proper 3 wire grounded plug. Mains driven devices are not to be trifled with in regards to proper wiring. Just cut the end off a PC power cord, if your like most, you probably have a few laying around.

On your laser PS, Hot is brown, neutral is white, green is ground.

On your 3 wire cord, you can have two possible wiring colors used. IEC or US National.

If it's IEC, hot = brown, neutral = blue, ground - green/yellow stripe

If it's US National, Hot will be black, neutral = white, ground = green

Just match up the hot, neutral and ground to their respective colors. and it should work... and for safety's sake.. don't just 'twist the wires together'. At minimum use electrical tape and tape them up. This hobby isn't worth someone getting electrocuted over.

My guess is currently, you have the hot/neutral reversed and/or the PSU has a safety that won't let it operate without a ground.
Click to expand...


i know this is way off topic but i was looking for the color codes....im wiring the mains on my galvos psu it has a ac input for L and N i assume hot and neutral?
 
Yeah L or L1 is Line or HOT and N is Neutral...

Jerry
(10600-405-35988)
 
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jerry i attached a pic in a thumbnail i see where it says ground but it already has a wire hooked up to it so im confused....

thanks
 

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That would be a common chassis ground...
Just hook your 120VAC ground to the 3rd connection
from the left.


Jerry
 
Actually i'd put the AC ground on the extra screw right next to the AC connections. It's not labeled but i bet you that's what it's there for. It's unliky they want the mains grounding on the same terminal as your grounding for your PSU output.. though technically it shouldn't hurt anything having it there.
 
qumefox said:
Actually i'd put the AC ground on the extra screw right next to the AC connections. It's not labeled but i bet you that's what it's there for. It's unliky they want the mains grounding on the same terminal as your grounding for your PSU output.. though technically it shouldn't hurt anything having it there.
Click to expand...

That IS the 3rd connection from the left...:D
The White wire seems to be connected between the
Chassis Ground andthe electrical ground on the 6th pin
from the left...


Jerry
 
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Yeah. i'm blind I think. But I wonder what's in the shrink tubing in the wire between them. Generally grounds don't require any kind of 'modification'.
 
Yeah that is the only thing that has be bewildered...
Maybe it's a nut and bolt holding two ring connectors
together... or a very bad solder joint...:D

Jerry
 
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Good idea.... But remove the Power FIRST.....;)

Jerry
 
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