Idea for laser build

[Lifetime17]

Hi Craze,
the one one the left is a C6 sorry about the late reply .
Ill be turning mag light Plug n play this week , flush mount and extended, smooth or with reliefs all with focus knobs..

Rich

 

[Sta]

I had assumed a 4.2V battery (for which my math seems correct), but with the 3S (11.1V) and a buck driver you're closer to 35 minutes run time.

I suppose I was right to have disagreed with you! (My original post said 30, but once I saw your post, I changed it. :crackup

 

[Crazlaser]

Thanks. I own a model plane that has a 265 watt motor, 840kv motor and it runs off a 3200mah 3s lipo for about 20 minutes and that's when I run at just below half throttle.

I also do have a voltage meter, and never let the battery drop below 10.2 volts. I've had enough $40 batteries get puffy and not be able to hold a charge that I'm fairly careful about this. I would set my alarm for 10.2 volts and it would alert me if I forgot.

edit: pray for my soul y'all I just purchased:

NUBM44 450nm Laser Diode
In 20mm Copper Module
W/SXD Driver &
Three Element Glass Lens
7-12V Input
$179

This is my first purchase from DTR so I sure hope I actually receive something. All I hear is positive about his shop so I can't imagine it would be a scam.

 

[Lifetime17]

Hi ,
You don't have to ever worry about buying from DTR this guy is an outstanding guy. He will always come through with no worries . i have purchased many items i can't count ,always at my door ,. So chill my man you will get what you ordered and all quality stuff no trash.

Rich

 

[Crazlaser]

Guys along with the diode module I purchased an aluminum project box to mount it in. In the future I may put it in an actual host. Just tell me your guys opinion of the build concept.
I've bought this aluminum box, that is 55mm x 105mm x 150mm. I'm gonna use Velcro tape inside the box to mount the battery which is a turnigy 2200mah 3s lipo. I'm gonna solder in switches. I've purchased the following from ebay and amazon: An on off toggle switch. Then a three position switch for switching between the final button; a momentary press or an on off. I'm gonna solder them all together the way they go, and I also ordered some 22 gauge hookup wire which I hope is thick enough (if not I have other sizes as scrap from a tesla coil build). I also bought the same type of 20mm heatsink that DTR has links to. It's 51mm in height and I'm going to mount it with small bolts (I have a large assortment of nuts and bolts of all sizes), and I'm putting little rubber feet on the box. I also bought connector plugs to connect the battery to the initial switch. I'm mounting the heatsink and diode module inside the case with a small hold in the front for the beam to go through. I'll determine how I plan to adjust the focus once the parts arrive. Just let me know what you guys think about how I plan to put this together, and what I can do to make it turn out well.

Thanks

 

[paul1598419]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the absolute terrible divergence of this diode, yet. With a G-2 lens you will have more of a flashlight than what you think of when someone says LASER. You are, I'm assuming, going for the highest power diode currently available to us, but it's beam spreads out very quickly because it is a multi-mode diode and the emitter is quite wide. There are other optics available to correct for this somewhat, but that is probably beyond a first time builder and it carries more expense. You might be happier with another diode for a high power build.

 

[Crazlaser]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the absolute terrible divergence of this diode, yet. With a G-2 lens you will have more of a flashlight than what you think of when someone says LASER. You are, I'm assuming, going for the highest power diode currently available to us, but it's beam spreads out very quickly because it is a multi-mode diode and the emitter is quite wide. There are other optics available to correct for this somewhat, but that is probably beyond a first time builder and it carries more expense. You might be happier with another diode for a high power build.

I'm not using the g-2 lens. I have chosen the 3 element lens because someone stated earlier that it has better divergence. As I already own a laser with an m140, I'm more interested in the maximum power possible.
As long as it actually has a beam and not a flood, then it's fine.

1 inch at 15 feet? :beer: Is that too much to ask for from this diode?

Too late now anyways as I've already ordered parts. It'll be cool any way.

 

[Sta]

I'm not using the g-2 lens. I have chosen the 3 element lens because someone stated earlier that it has better divergence. As I already own a laser with an m140, I'm more interested in the maximum power possible.
As long as it actually has a beam and not a flood, then it's fine.

1 inch at 15 feet? :beer: Is that too much to ask for from this diode?

With a 3-element lens, it's going to be 0.75 inches at 15 feet. With a G2 it is 2 inches. :beer:

 

[RB astro]

Too late now anyways as I've already ordered parts. It'll be cool any way.

Hi Crazlaser,

Good luck with the build.
I know I don't have mention this but just in case:
Make sure you have a good quality pair of safety glasses.
These are crazy powers we're playing with and it only takes a millisecond to do permanent damage to your eyes.
Have a look at this thread below (and that was only a 1W 445nm).
http://laserpointerforums.com/f53/hit-eye-1000mw-445nm-blue-laser-69469.html

Have a look at survival lasers Eagle Pair safety glasses if you haven't already.
Eagle Pair® 190-540nm OD6 Slip Over Laser Safety Goggles

These are what I use with all my collection.
Safety First, Last and Always !

Enjoy.
RB

 

[Crazlaser]

Hi Crazlaser,

Good luck with the build.
I know I don't have mention this but just in case:
Make sure you have a good quality pair of safety glasses.

Safety First, Last and Always !

Enjoy.
RB

Thanks RB astro :beer: I have an Eaglepair that I bought from survival laser. Those goggles should keep my eyes in tact.:beer: :lasergun: