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FrozenGate by Avery

I think my old greenie is going to kick the bucket...

mfo said:
Update: I decided to see how much current was being drawn from this laser when I pushed the button. When I did, it measured about 240mA. When I pushed the button a little harder it shot up to 275~280mA. So I guess either my button is shot, or like Dave said the board is sagging.
Click to expand...

I vote for me ;)

Do you have a picture of the whole laser or can you link us to a picture of a laser like it? I have worked with most of the potential hosts. I may be able to give you some insight on how to support the driver board.

Peace,
dave
 





A good support is a piece of rubber eraser. It is easily cut to fit with a razor blade.

HMike
 
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mfo said:
Here you go Dave.
Index of /green
There are 4 big jpg's in there. If you need other angles let me know.
Click to expand...

OK. A long reach in this one. You're going to need a couple of fairly thin "probes" to do this.

First cut a couple of pieces of plastic from some sort of packaging. You are looking for the kind of plastic that is vacu-formed over a toy or the like. It should be thinner than a credit card but be stiff enough to "mold/bend."

Cut two pieces about 1/2 inch deep and about 1/2 the length of the circumference of the laser body.

Bend/mold the plastic over something to get it "rounded."

Reach down into the body with one of your probes and push the driver up toward the button.

Slid the first piece of plastic down and under the driver. Be careful not to "hook" the coil under there (if it is under on that driver).

Test the button to see if the driver board is flexing. If it just flexes a "little", then test it with batteries. Does it turn on and off cleanly? If it still has the problem, repeat the process with the second piece of plastic.

If it is too high, the switch will be depressed all the time and the laser will not turn off.

Peace,
dave
 
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daguin said:
OK. A long reach in this one. You're going to need a couple of fairly thin "probes" to do this.

First cut a couple of pieces of plastic from some sort of packaging. You are looking for the kind of plastic that is vacu-formed over a toy or the like. It should be thinner than a credit card but be stiff enough to "mold/bend."

Cut two pieces about 1/2 inch deep and about 1/2 the length of the circumference of the laser body.

Bend/mold the plastic over something to get it "rounded."

Reach down into the body with one of your probes and push the driver up toward the button.

Slid the first piece of plastic down and under the driver. Be careful not to "hook" the coil under there (if it is under on that driver).

Test the button to see if the driver board is flexing. If it just flexes a "little", then test it with batteries. Does it turn on and off cleanly? If it still has the problem, repeat the process with the second piece of plastic.

If it is too high, the switch will be depressed all the time and the laser will not turn off.

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...

Do you think the plastic from a bottle of pop will suffice?
 
The switch is a MAJOR sore spot on these. They are not designed for the high current! I used to save old vcrs for a rainy day and then remove all the micro click switches behind the buttons. They came in handy for just this. Larger barrels can fit a proper snap action micro switch in there! Those Omron switches can fit in the leadlight barrels long ways but you will lose the ability to use AAAs.
 
Well guys, an update. Turns out you all were right that the driver was sagging as I pushed the button. I managed to jam a piece of rubber eraser under it for support and that seems to have done the trick. Seriously, thank you ALL for helping me out with this. This greenie means a lot to me and is almost ten years old.
 
Sweet glad it was a quick fix.

As for me , I took apart my RPL-225 yesterday to see why the power was down to

80mw. Well after taking the crystals out and getting down to the IR , It seem the IR diode is very week , but i dont know if its the driver that's not giving it enough juice anymore or the diode is just dying.

I managed to put it back together and realign the crystals But looks like i will try to replace the diode on it with a 1W 808 , anyone know if RPL's use C-mounts or 9mm diodes?
 
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