Well I will say that I never bought that many at one time. I think the most was 12.
Remember that if you are going to adjust the pots I HIGHLY recommend using something non-conductive or at least killing power to the module before adjusting again. It's always best to let the module cool before retesting once an adjustment is made.
Take little pieces of paper and write down the peak that you see and slip it in with the bag the module comes in so you know what each module can output or you will get confused really quick.
Don't know if you bought any 405nm ones but someone told me about trying to use an old soldering iron to get the epoxy away from the pot. Tried it on an old module that I had ruined by trying to get the epoxy off with a razor and I think it might work so we can see what the 405 is capable of. Just don't have a working one sitting around now. Don't have any modules at all actually although I have a few on the way for next week (but the 2 405nm modules are more like 2 weeks out).
Fasttech had some issues with China customs holding up a lot of orders and what I've seen lately is it is taking 5 days for a package to even show "accepted" which is the first part of the shipping process
Let me know if you need some direction on the module adjustments.
I use a tail clicky taped to the end of a battery to kill power easily since I don't have ceramic screwdrivers. then I just wrap the driver leads round the other side of the switch and tape the neg side to the battery. My LPM should be in my mailbox when I get home and I've got a computer power cable on order for the bench PSU and a multimeter on the way. I want to torture test the diodes to see what current we can run these pens and the fasttech diodes. Slowly but surely getting my test equipment
I'm having trouble getting regular flashlights and a set of LED's from China right now. It's been 10 days and I'm not sure if they've even left China...
Sounds good Tom. It is very likely that I will get the 2 more sets I orderred tomorrow so I can report exactly what they measure. Will be nice to have more info so we can figure out the consistency of the output.
I will say that the 405nm and 650nm are right on the money for the old ones I used to be able to get but the 532nm was way better. I fust don't see the likelyhood of the next 2 532nm being that high or stable is likely at all.
If anyone else can measure theirs please let us all know.
Since you are in PA I think you are going to get yours by Tuesday or even Monday if they go out today or tomorrow.
My sister did get her 2 sets with the star caps today. IT is VERY likely they are the same units as the ones without the caps but just have the added star cap.
Hmmmm Javelin just got post #100
Well, you should pretty easily be able to tell which ones are brighter at this power level when comparing them side by side. I'm pretty sure that the ones I've gotten that read higher with no pot adjustment were the ones that were much more likely to hit big numbers once adjusted.
Seriously tempted to steel a module or 2 from a couple units just to build a couple new builds. I'm having builders withdrawal.
Polished up the last 6 1/2" couplings I have and used my dremel to clean the anodizing off the insides of some hosts too.
Well the mail tracking shows it was already delivered this morning but there's nothing in my mailbox yet. I called the usps and they looked into it and what it looks like is the package was scanned to go get delivered a minute before showing it got delivered which makes no sense unless the postman did it by accident or so that they wouldn't have to rescan it again when chucking it in the box. This is not USPS procedure and I've never seen this happen before.
We are thinking it is likely a temp or sub person and it will get delivered later today. This would make sense since I almost always get mail much later than normal on a Saturday. Mail usually comes by about 11:00 on a weekday and sometimes up to 4 hours later than that on Saturday.
We shall see as I really want to get those other mw readings.
My sister got her units with the star caps yesterday and she said they all seem bright except of course the 405nm. She can easily see the beams on the 2 532nm units.
Got your pic of the LPM Javelin and responded
The reason I keep warning about the pot adjustment is I've heard over and over about people buying those modules and how they adjusted them and ruined them all and tried to claim they were defective. What I can almost guarantee in those instances is that they way over adjusted the pots or shorted them. I just don't want this to happen. If you are careless you will reap what you sow. It is CCW to increase but the pot is quite sensitive so a small movement may give a much bigger change than you expect. I don't think the amps should go up to .5. It's too much and the output is going to drop. As I've said before, .43 is where I generally end up setting all of them up to before measuring their outputs. Some will definitely have to be set back down to just below .3 as they will not like that setting. You will see as you mess with them.
I think you aid that you are going to mess with the voltage. I never seemed to have an issue running the 3V ones with the 4.2V peak on a rechargeable lithium but I haven't done extensive testing either. You could always use a AA LiFePo4 or an RCR123A to get down to simulating 2 regular alkaline.
I was just talking to my sister who said to order a set on the ones she got with the caps for myself. So, I'll have a set of those by Wednesday at the latest to report on.
Yes .43 but I do my testing/setup using a variable DC power supply at 3.2V so the battery aspect is taken out of the equation. Never tried doing it with just batteries but I could test it and see for myself by first measuring a unit that is allready set up and then try it with some new alkalines.
Remember that some modules won't like being adjusted that high but you can tell pretty quickly when you look at the beam. IT will likely be high for a moment and drop realy quick in brightness.
Believe me, I understand the frustration in not having all the test equipment that I have. I'm not expecting people to go out and spend a ton of money on expensive Flukes and things. I've been using nice meters since joining the Navy back in 1986 (medically retired in 1996) and everyday at wok I NEED good test equipment for my job.
It takes time to accumulate these things. Just slowly gather them when you can and next thing you know you've got some really nice stuff to work with.
IF anyone wants a really serious meter take a look at the Fluke 87V or one of the earlier versions on Ebay. Sometimes you can get the older 87 for under $100. The newer ones have better accuracies and some added features such as temperature but the price will double for a V version. It's a rather rare thing to see someone with an 87 here as it is expensive and frankly not necessary. Just suggesting a used Fluke may be much better than a new something else.
Even the least expensive Fluke is well made and recomended and all over Ebay.
You don't want to know how many different Fluke meters I own
I tried the tail cap way and it works out just fine with batteries.
Got the 2 sets of pens.
K, like I had said so many times that first 532nm was a fluke. The new ones are 36 and 61mw which is mot unexpected. Crap shoot on 532nm that you just have to accept.
The ones we are more interested in are the 405 and 650.
Oh, these are all the correct ones
405nm were 92-97 and 103 to 112mw depending on voltage. I have rarely gotten a 405nm pen that would hit over 100mw using regular alkalines.
The 650's were 127 and 128mw.
Conclusion? Game over. Great and ONLY source for quality inexpensive pens that I am aware of while they last.
Would be extremely surprised if the cap ones are any different. We shall know soon enough.
The capped ones would make fantastic Christmas presents to anyone you know that is responsible enough to own them! If they lose the caps they still have pointers.
If you are going to buy more than one set I would definitely make an offer first.
Mine was 11 each for 2 sets of the regular ones and he went down 2 bucks each. Don't know how low he would go on the cap ones but I would suggest asking for maybe $14.50 for a couple sets of them since he is asking $18.50 each.
It's a very simple thing to swap the heads on the ones with caps to the ones with the regular top if you wanted a certain power on certain ones. They all fit each other
Guess who has to make 4 more focusing units
Oh yeah, I bought a bunch of those cheap clear tubes of epoxy from Harbor Freight when they were marked down to a $1 (usually $2) and it works very well with this tutorial.
If you just want some lenses that will allow your pen to focus up close just buy:
I got my trio today. I was pretty impressed by the 610nm. I can feel heat from the dot. The same goes for the 405nm. They both have the modules inside you have pictured earlier.
However the 532nm is about half as bright as my "50mw DX module" and has this funky lense set-up and dosent have enough travel for a "close up" focus.
This is no big deal Iam going to harvest the module for a telescope mounted finder.
^See post #109. I rarely focus the 532nm ones but the one I received was worth it. Depends upon what you mean by close up focus. Don't want to get too close or you will get stuff and likely ruin it. Those lenses are extremely susceptible to scratching. Canned air is a great thing to have around.
Some of my focusable units (old pic). Really don't know how many I've turned focusable but has to be over 50 of them. The 532nm is actually a bit easier it's just usually not worth it. Some 532nm in there. Adding a spring like the 650 and 405nm have is the key to being able to get as close as 3" focus point which is pretty good.
You meant 650nm
I did get a set of the ones with the star caps and they are the good ones too. Looks like I pay my penance for getting such a powerful 532nm the first time as this one was only 12mw (VERY unusual to get one this low). However, when viewed with the star cap on it is a better match for the others. It is also better when messing with pens for lumia so there's lots of good in a lower powered 532nm. The 405nm was 90 and the 650 was 109 (typical). Remember that you can mix and match the tops of these units so you could change whatever ones you want to star cap ones. It's too bad the cap adapter and star caps for these nice pens are plastic Just need to perfect the art of not scraping the caps up during removal. Just go to "junk" stores like VOA, Salvation army or Goodwill and there's plenty of belts and handbags and stuff you can buy to use to put between your pliers jaws and caps I've seen too many people ruin them from impatience.
Get either ones while they are hot! Noticed Fasttech is having a LOT of shipping troubles now just so everyone knows. It's really a BIG mess on the Chinese end. You should take a look at all their notices and complaints. I've read and read on their site and I don't see how it's Fasttechs fault. Unfortunately you may end up waiting for long periods of time for orders and many have ultimately gotten refunds and had to reorder and hope for the best.
I put in 3 small orders and the one that says it was shipped on the 19th hasn't even been accepted by the carrier in China yet. IT contains a couple 5V 532nm modules and one single AAA pen. Who knows when I will get it.
The second order that actually had some batteries in it was shipped on the 23rd and just left CA yesterday so I'll get it soon.
The third order went in on the 25th said acceptance in China on the 30th so hopefully that one will continue to move too. It had no batteries in it.
Again, if you're looking for some nice pens better safe than sorry and get them while you can. I don't think I could put myself through buying them over and over from different sellers again to see if anyone has the good ones. Too much money and disappointment.
NEW MONTH! DONATE ANYTHING (even a $1) helps I've committed myself to donate $10 every month since I joined. If you can only afford $1 that is most welcome. Think of it as all I did was give $1 ten times lol.
Did you not use 5 minute epoxy? I can make one in about 30 minutes if I use that. I actually mean 30 minutes total including the epoxy drying enough so everything is bonded well. I only wait about 5 minutes after the epoxy is applied on either step before going onto the next step. If you are using a slow cure epoxy you've got more patience than me
Hopefully it all works out fine. The more you make of them the easier it gets.
Actually had 3 532nm Fasttech 5V modules show up today so I put together a few uinits that I'll post in the inexpensive build thread.
I just used J/B weld. Its what I had "laying around" Yes they both turned out well. I used a razor and scotch bright to remove metal from inside the pen so the cap could freely turn which is what took the longest to do. The red pen's lense really didnt want to un-screw it was a total pita.
But yes they both turned out really well. The 405 and 650 will melt/burn dark colored things now. I never would have guessed this from a pen unit! I havent upgraded theyr batteries yet with the dummie and 10440.
Here's a 650 from Pman's California guy that I fixed up.
I found the perfect extension<->cap spacer material...heat shrink tubing! 3-4 layers of it make for a perfect fit....a dab of 5-min J-B Weld and the cap is good to go. Really helps keep that last glue step well centered, too!
I file down the ridges on the cap instead of taking any material from the already thin body.
On the business end that you can't see, this cap is in the process of being fitted with a "rotatable starfield" diffraction grating head thingy.