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HeNe bundle.

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If you don't have clips, you can often use the clip from one side of a fuse holder. These are the type of fuse holders for AG and GMA type fuses. They are glass fuses and are 0.25 inches in diameter. You will have to stretch the clip open to a larger diameter, but they will work and are dirt cheap.
 



diachi

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If you don't have clips, you can often use the clip from one side of a fuse holder. These are the type of fuse holders for AG and GMA type fuses. They are glass fuses and are 0.25 inches in diameter. You will have to stretch the clip open to a larger diameter, but they will work and are dirt cheap.


Wish I had thought of that before I went and bought clips from MI... Had to order other stuff from them anyway I guess.

Good suggestion. :D
 
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I will get some 75k 5W before I hook them up.

I was planning to machine some plastic mounts that clamped over the anode and cathode with a piece of tin placed in the bottom of the curve. I can solder a wire to the tin them clamp it. Carefully of course and not to much clamping force. I found on the net the cathode is the end with the metal shield inside it. And anode without. The beam exits from the anode end.

Using clamps from fuse holders sounds like an easy way to test them before machining some holders​.


Charles
 
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After using the fuse holders, you might find it unnecessary to machine anything new. It looks as well as works very nicely.
 

diachi

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The beam exits from the anode end.


Charles

That'll vary depending on the tube, mine has the OC on the cathode end. Both ends will actually emit some light, seeing as the HR isn't 100% reflective, although the output from the HR will be minuscule.
 
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My little 6 inch tube emits light from the cathode end, too. It is the only bare tube I have in HeNe. Even that little tube emits light from the anode side as well, and it is less than 1 mW.
 
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Hey, whoa...I would never advocate trying to pull the tubes from these...especially if he has bare ones already-its just asking to break them. It can be done...but I only ever do it for maintenance reasons...its better to leave them in the tubings. they're far more resiliant to damage and dust and thermals. HeNe glow is definitely ftw tho.

Definitely do agree 75K is a great starting place for a ballast. voltages will vary widely with the length of the tube though. you can find voltage requirements on Sam's Page
 
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I will keep in mind they could emit from either end.

Fuseholders sound neat. Would still like to mount it rather than just sitting on the glass. Maybe mount the fuseholders on a plastic spacer to lift them up. 3AG might be a bit small. Maybe clips from 5AG fuseholders are closer. Or other types. Will see what I can find at work.
 
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It depends on the tube which fuse holder will work best, but I wouldn't support the tube by the cathode and anode ends. That is begging for a broken tube. It is better to support it by the envelope with plastic mounts.
 
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If you don't have clips, you can often use the clip from one side of a fuse holder. These are the type of fuse holders for AG and GMA type fuses. They are glass fuses and are 0.25 inches in diameter. You will have to stretch the clip open to a larger diameter, but they will work and are dirt cheap.

awsome idea :)

Just to chime in on the capacitance - because they are glass and can shock you, even for a while after they are off, or disconnected, it is a good idea to work with them over something soft or close to the ground.

Lots of them have been broken, not so much by the shock, but more by the surprise of getting shocked and dropping the tube.

Very frustrating. :(

Have fun.
 
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Flux works wonders when trying to solder onto something. I've always just used clips tho
 

diachi

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Flux works wonders when trying to solder onto something. I've always just used clips tho


Yeah ... you could solder onto the mirror mounts/electrodes directly but that'd be a bad idea, lots of heat may not be good for the tube/alignment, potential to damage mirrors etc. Best to go with clips for these sorts of tubes.
 
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The ends of most tubes are made of Kovar or steel, which the solder won't stick to without alot of heat, and not very well. so its just risking cracks or warping. the clips are usually a lighter aluminum sometimes plated in silver or something, which the solder will like a lot better giving a nice reliable removable connection. :)
 
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I have been lazy and not updated this thread with my HeNe tube tests.

Bit of a problem. One of the 24 vdc supplies is dead. The other 24 vdc supply has low output and only fires a 150 mm tube. Not much beam power though. The supply is only outputing 1 mA.

The 110 vac supply seems ok. But its only rated for small tubes. Fires up the 150mm tube.

The seller is sending me some more supplies of high output for the bigger tubes. I will update with photo's when I get a good supply.
 
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I had a feeling that some of these wouldn't be working from the start. Glad to hear you are getting some more drivers. Good luck.
 




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