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FrozenGate by Avery

Help with my WL.. Surprise surprise...

The dongle could be making poor contact. Remove the tailcap from the equation and try it I bet it will work.
 





Yes, that could also be the issue. Although I would give first precedence to the batteries, usually if the endcap has an issue, turning the laser upside down while it's on will cut the SS back to the keycode stage when you first turn the laser on. If your batteries can "charge" more when you just took them off of the charger, I would say it's the batteries. The chargers turn green once the battery reaches 4.2V, so if you just charged it and put it back on the charger and the charger reads red, then you know your battery isn't holding 4.2V for very long. The Arctics are configured to cut off the laser at around 3.7V if IIRC? Don't quote me on that one :p
 
hwang21 said:
Yes, that could also be the issue. Although I would give first precedence to the batteries, usually if the endcap has an issue, turning the laser upside down while it's on will cut the SS back to the keycode stage when you first turn the laser on. If your batteries can "charge" more when you just took them off of the charger, I would say it's the batteries. The chargers turn green once the battery reaches 4.2V, so if you just charged it and put it back on the charger and the charger reads red, then you know your battery isn't holding 4.2V for very long. The Arctics are configured to cut off the laser at around 3.7V if IIRC? Don't quote me on that one :p
Click to expand...

Well when i pull the batteries back out they are still well over 3.7... But i expect the battery that actually came with the laser to show up in the morning so i will wait til then to see if that's the problem..

Also, it isn't the tail cap.
 
tonyt said:
Well when i pull the batteries back out they are still well over 3.7... But i expect the battery that actually came with the laser to show up in the morning so i will wait til then to see if that's the problem..

Also, it isn't the tail cap.
Click to expand...

To be sure, you can try turning it on without the tailcap by making contact with a coin or something.
 
Thanks smeer.. Yeah i already did that.. and also checked it with my dmm..
 
High Ri batteries can read 4.2V under no load and drop to under 3V under a solid load like that of a >1W diode. Ultrafires are crap most of the time, even when they are not the fakes. LarryDFW here sells some awesome Li-Ions.
 
Speaking on this subject... do you know if SANYO's, Panasonics, or Sonys any good?
 
Only if they are genuine. Lots of fakes going around. The AW brand stuff is good too (if real).
 
Well WL uses SANYO's... I got Panasonics of off a oem Lenovo laptop battery, and Sonys off of a oem Sony laptop battery. Sooo I'm hoping they're all real :p
 
while where talking about batteries are nitecores any good? i recently picked up some nitecore cr123a's from fasttech, hopefully they are genuine :p haven't tested them though with anything
 
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My Nitecore MH25 from FT had Nitecore NL183 2300mAh cells included but I already had the Panasonic cells so I didn't use the included NL183 cell but it does seem to handle high current draw well and the mAh rating seems to be accurate.
 
So,

I actually got the WL battery that came with it and it works! All the older batteries that i was trying to use must all be too old and are useless..
I tried to take back the new battery i bought from my battery shop and he REFUSED! wtf???
Anyway.. i also lpm'd this and it maxed at 1320mW which isn't really that bad.. Its only 80mW off spec.!!. LoL!
 
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