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FrozenGate by Avery

Help with my first (and most likely last) build

The acrylic lens is plastic and it has no anti-reflective coating. The acrylic is fine with low power diodes only. The three element lens has three layers of AR coating and the G1/G2/G9 has a single layer of AR coating. I think the G lens also has a shorter focal length than the 3 element. I'm not entirely sure though. I'm sure there are other differences but its all I can think of.

Also, 120mw of 450nm will be visible but it won't be bright.

Hemlock_Mike said:
The solder I use has a flux core..
HMike
Click to expand...
Well yeah, most solders nowadays have flux cores. But applying more flux makes soldering very easy.
 
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Zeebit said:
The acrylic lens is plastic and it has no anti-reflective coating. The acrylic is fine with low power diodes only. The three element lens has three layers of AR coating and the G1/G2/G9 has a single layer of AR coating. I think the G lens also has a shorter focal length than the 3 element. I'm not entirely sure though. I'm sure there are other differences but its all I can think of.
Click to expand...

Would you suggest I get the module with a microboost driver already attached or buy the driver separately with my host from dx?
 
Calcifer said:
Would you suggest I get the module with a microboost driver already attached or buy the driver separately with my host from dx?
Click to expand...

If you want it the easy way then get the microboost soldered on. If you want to save a few bucks(dx driver=$2) then get the DX driver. You will have to change a resistor though. You will also need two 16340/18350 cells for the driver to work.
 
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Zeebit said:
If you want it the easy way then get the microboost soldered on. If you want to save a few bucks(dx driver=$2) then get the DX driver. You will have to change a resistor though. You will also need two 16340/18350 cells for the driver to work.
Click to expand...

I think just this time I'll minimize my chance of failure. If I get the microboost driver what else will I have to do to it to get it fully functional? Drop it into a heatsink and touch the case pin against the host?
 
Calcifer said:
I think just this time I'll minimize my chance of failure. If I get the microboost driver what else will I have to do to it to get it fully functional? Drop it into a heatsink and touch the case pin against the host?
Click to expand...

No need to bother with the case pin.

Things you need:
*Host
*Heatsink
*PL450 w/ microboost (ask DTR to send you the module with your choice of lens)
*Battery contact board
*18650
 
Zeebit said:
No need to bother with the case pin.

Things you need:
*Host
*Heatsink
*PL450 w/ microboost (ask DTR to send you the module with your choice of lens)
*Battery contact board
*18650
Click to expand...

Okay. Kind of second guessing my choice of diode atm, I'm aiming for a killer beam... Like I just want to make one that is overkill so that I'm satisfied once and for all, which would require a bright beam at night. Any suggestions on the best balance between beam aesthetics and output/brightness?
 
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What color do you want? A 532nm laser will give you a very good beam profile and a bright beam.
 
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I must have missed that. A single mode 445 will give you a nice rounded dot at the cost of power and brightness. A multimode 445 will give you a fat beam(but not necessarily ugly) but it will certainly be bright.

You are after a bright beam so an M140 is the way to go.
 
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Zeebit said:
I must have missed that. A single mode 445 will give you a nice rounded dot at the cost of power and brightness. A multimode 445 will give you a fat beam(but not necessarily ugly) but it will certainly be bright.

You are after a bright beam so an M140 is the way to go.
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Hmmm... What's the highest mW I can expect out of a single-mode?
 
NP. Take a look at the PL450 power chart. It's a very informative thread.
 
have a look @ THIS... This has better beam characteristics then m140, and has decent power :)
 
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