Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Hand-made Aluminum-Bronze host & 561 nm laser

RA_pierce

RA_pierce

0
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
3,666
Points
113
Here's my latest project: a 561 nm laser installed in a hand-made aluminum-bronze host.
When I say hand-made, I mean I formed the host from stock using hand saws, files, abrasive paper, and tapped the threads by hand. The only power tools involved: drill press and belt sander.

Here are some details about the finished laser:
  • 561 nm ~5 mW solid state laser module, pulsed operation
  • USB-rechargeable via Adafruit mini-USB charging circuit
  • 500 mAh LiPo battery
  • Stainless steel hardware
The concept is a modular (more about that later) host made from one of my favorite materials - aluminum bronze - designed to be unique. I chose aluminum-bronze for its strength, its color (a beautiful silvery-gold that develops a nice patina over time), its corrosion resistance, and for its workability.
The host is made from 4 pieces. I don't have a machine shop, so I designed this to be made with simple operations that can be done by hand - cutting, drilling, threading, and filing. Additionally, only one screw type was used, to simplify the design and reduce tool costs.
One plate has threaded holes to accept all the components that are to be fastened securely: the module and aluminum heatsink, the charging circuit, and a small bracket that holds the switch in place. The driver and battery are secured using double-sided thermal tape.
The middle section of the "sandwich" is simply opened up to fit all the "meat." I filed out a rectangular aperture for a unique and harmonious look.

50873170281_0c9e429b51_c.jpg


The simple design allows very precise alignment of the beam for centering and leveling. Rotating the laser module inside the heatsink allows for vertical adjustment, which can be fixed via a set-screw in the heatsink. Horizontal alignment can then be adjusted by pivoting the heatsink about the screw that fastens it to the base plate. These two axes of adjustment are all that is needed for very good beam centering.

About the modularity: because the entire laser assembly is contained on one plate, additional plates can be made with alternate laser modules. The middle section and cover plate can then be installed on any laser assembly, making the design modular. Additionally, the laser assembly is operable without the middle section or the cover plate, so even when the rest of the host is occupied with another laser assembly, any laser assembly made for this host is still useable as a fully "open" laser module.

The host and hardware:
50872783471_e2e7cabb3a_c.jpg


Laser assembly installed and aligned:
50872080143_541c5b5142_c.jpg


50872886452_e7cca39ed3_c.jpg


All wrapped up:
50872078393_ce1ed0ef69_c.jpg


50872079173_0c0a66f278_c.jpg


I later decided to put the sticker on the plate that contains the laser assembly. Oh, the red laser? That's just 100 mW of 633 nm - nothing interesting...
50872786111_252b6a5ced_c.jpg


Here it is next to some other DPSS wavelengths: 532, 561, 570, 689. The crappy generic pen is the only 532 I had that was ~5 mW.
50872887027_11d6c0b5d6_c.jpg


The 570 doesn't have a home yet:
50872887592_80ab191da6_c.jpg
 
Last edited:





That's a very nice looking 561nm that you've built, RA, especially since you only used hand tools in it's construction ....very professional looking!
It's also nice to see some alternative style hosts for a change; good job sir (y)
 
With RA’s skills he could probably make a metal cap that slots snuggly in place. Some of those parts look CNC milled.
 
RedCowboy said:
(y)Very nice and a nifty slim pocket friendly form.
You could make a slip over dust cover to fit over your two front prongs, maybe something 3d printed ?
Click to expand...
Good suggestion. I had an idea to make a small magnetic block that can hold optics and snap it in with little neodymium magnets installed in the host - as Curtis says, it wouldn't be hard to fabricate something from metal. But I'll probably reserve that idea for future projects since the small aperture seems to keep dust out pretty well. I've carried it in a pocket for a little while. Everything is easy enough to clean if needed, so unless I get bored I'll probably leave it as is.
That said, I do want a 3D printer. I just don't have the cash or the space at the moment.
ElectricPlasma said:
Definitely one of the more impressive lasers I've seen; well done! Very unique and elegant design, the embedded LiPo and charger is a great addition as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks! It's my first build with an integrated LiPo. The low capacity has put me off for a while but for low power applications, it's great. I've run this laser quite a lot since it's been assembled and have only charged it once, so I'm pleased with the capacity.
CurtisOliver said:
It’s currently in a 3D printed host. I’m only semi happy with how it turned out.

https://laserpointerforums.com/threads/493nm-my-first-build-3d-printed-host.106581/
Click to expand...
Ah, I remember this thread. Overall not bad. Perhaps using finer resolution settings would improve the finish. Additionally, you might be able to get away with more if you use a geometric (i.e. rectangular) design. This way, you won't have to deal with the "aliasing" (I don't know the technical term) you'll get with curved surfaces. Do you think that would work?

When it comes to sanding, here are some tips:
  • attach the abrasive paper to a rigid block or file (tape works for me), ideally something with a similar surface curvature (or flatness) to the object you are sanding. For most of the sanding I did for this project, I fixed the paper to a flat marble "board" and moved the workpiece against the paper. With a 3D printer, you could probably make a sanding block with the exact curvature you need - the rough finish won't matter so much on the sanding block.
  • use it wet - I use WD-40 for metals, not sure how it would work on plastics - water might be better.
  • rinse the workpiece with clean water between grits. Rinsing frequently helps remove the abraded material that can otherwise dig in to the workpiece and roughen the finish. It also helps remove traces of coarser grits that would have the same result.
 
RA_pierce said:
Good suggestion. I had an idea to make a small magnetic block that can hold optics and snap it in with little neodymium magnets installed in the host - as Curtis says, it wouldn't be hard to fabricate something from metal. But I'll probably reserve that idea for future projects since the small aperture seems to keep dust out pretty well. I've carried it in a pocket for a little while. Everything is easy enough to clean if needed, so unless I get bored I'll probably leave it as is.
That said, I do want a 3D printer. I just don't have the cash or the space at the moment.

Thanks! It's my first build with an integrated LiPo. The low capacity has put me off for a while but for low power applications, it's great. I've run this laser quite a lot since it's been assembled and have only charged it once, so I'm pleased with the capacity.

Ah, I remember this thread. Overall not bad. Perhaps using finer resolution settings would improve the finish. Additionally, you might be able to get away with more if you use a geometric (i.e. rectangular) design. This way, you won't have to deal with the "aliasing" (I don't know the technical term) you'll get with curved surfaces. Do you think that would work?

When it comes to sanding, here are some tips:
  • attach the abrasive paper to a rigid block or file (tape works for me), ideally something with a similar surface curvature (or flatness) to the object you are sanding. For most of the sanding I did for this project, I fixed the paper to a flat marble "board" and moved the workpiece against the paper. With a 3D printer, you could probably make a sanding block with the exact curvature you need - the rough finish won't matter so much on the sanding block.
  • use it wet - I use WD-40 for metals, not sure how it would work on plastics - water might be better.
  • rinse the workpiece with clean water between grits. Rinsing frequently helps remove the abraded material that can otherwise dig in to the workpiece and roughen the finish. It also helps remove traces of coarser grits that would have the same result.
Click to expand...
Visibly the host still looks rough but it is smooth to touch as I actually went through the process you've mentioned. Including wet and dry. 3D printed PLA is difficult to work with. Too rough and you'll eat into the plastic, sand too fast then you soften and deform it. All defects too deep I had to settle with. Higher resolution may of helped a little, but the curved shape was part of the problem. For my next host I am thinking about taking a bit of inspiration from your host. Layered laser cut acrylic may look nice if finished properly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top