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FrozenGate by Avery

Got my 500mw Green UltraFure From Price Angels!

Wait, which LPM is better, the usb one or the one on Radiants home page for $99.95?
It looks like the Radiant one costs around $20 less.

I am aware of the obvious difference (data logging and the need for your computer to be on vs. portability and immediate results), but lets assume that I don't have a preference. Is one "built better" than the other?

Does it even matter because I will end up buying them both anyway? (Glock vs. springfield argument?)

Halp!

cad602
 





I think the biggest difference between the two LPMs is the Lasersbee is always in stock. The radiant is out of stock often because the sell so quick. It was the first really affordable hobbiest LPM.

The new lasersbee just became available about a week ago.
 
Just go with whichever one fits your needs. I personally love the data logging feature and computer program feature. And you can get the Laserbee now. The radiant alpha will be hard to come by because it is always sold out. Both are made by very respected members here so you really can't go wrong either way.
 
Going for the LaserBee now...
& I likely will buy the out of stock Radiant model eventually I'm sure...

Cheers,
 
Mindful of the fact that I've pulled the steering mechanism off the discussion, and fueld by the jones I feel waiting for the LPM I ordered a couple of days ago to arrive from Canada, I have to ask an insane question.

Is it a good idea to test any prtective glasses I buy with the lpm?

In other words, can I shoot through the glasses and hold the lpm on the other side or is there a better way? I've seen light detecting diodes at radioshack...and photodiodes - and I bet I could build something to test for light (especially if I go googling circuits)- is that the way to verify that the glasses are actually working? I'm an old guy who's been flash burned several times by working in my trade and I don't want to trust anything...

I appreciate that a mod isn't slapping me silly for continuing this discussion in the wrong place but I promise to steer the conversation back to my green laser once I get that LPM! Jones Jones Jones :P

cad602
 
Just put the glasses in between the thermophile and the laser. BUT, make sure it is not through the middle of the glasses. Make it off to one side so if it happens to melt, it won't completely ruin the glasses.
 
What I do to test IR output on green lasers is focus your laser to infinity if possible. Put the glasses in front of the thermopile and move them side to side while the beam is contacting the lenses. This should make it not melt therefore saving your glasses. You can alternatively just buy a certified pair and not have to worry. That method is usually more costly.
 
Thanks guys!..
I figure I'm going to need to test considering where I bought the glasses from.

To save money I bought Four pair from dino direct for ~$35...
2 pair green / blue protection and 2 pair protection from red.

Dino D has been slow in the past, but last time I ordered they actually got my stuff to me in less than two weeks. Until then I'm not doing much of anything but studying...

cad602
 
Well! The 2.5Watt Laserbee arrived in the mail today and I now have a better understanding of Green vs. other colors. Well, that is, I'm developing an understanding.

My curiosity led me to first test a 250mW module from Dino Direct ($31 shipped) that I am powering with (used) AA's at 4.5V. The module is able to handle 5V (I've done it) and I know it's quite a bit brighter when I've powered it as such.

The meter quickly launched up then leveled off at 220mW. And I know the batteries aren't fully charged. I think that it can reach the 250mW mark if I put 5V to it - or amybe just a full 4.5 volts might be enough - and I will test it 8 ways very soon, but I'd rather not take the batteries out of the case until they get noticeably weak since they're soldered together - nevermind :) .

I then tested the 500mw monster thinking it might be close to 100mW after what I've read about green, but the LPM slowly peaked at 70mW!
I'm intrigued how powerful it looks compared to the red - but I understand that green is easier to see. Now I know just how much easier. Well, I've put the 3.7V Lith Ion battery back on charge and I'm going to test it after the battery is full. Maybe I can squeeze a little more out.

Edit: Apparently after chaging the laser isn't as strong, peaking at 60mW. Testing the Red, still getting 220mW...So do Lithium Ion batteries get stronger as they drain?

I got the IR filter but havent installed it yet - will that make any difference to the lpm or just make it safer?

I then tested an 'A-140' 445nm that I've got in a home made host w/ home made driver and even though it looks a little weaker, the LPM says it's putting out 75 mW though I know I could drive it much harder.

Funfun!
 
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Just so you CaN understand a little better. The IR filter is so you can filter out IR light allowing only green light to pass. Since your 500mw beast most likely doesn't have one this will tell you exactly how much green its outputting. Lasers without filters will generally leak quite a bit of IR. Its always a good thing to know.
 
That host does not look able to fit more than the standard 5-200mW green module. If you want higher power you have to go to the next size in modules.

The photos of measuring on the site vary between 48 and 117mW, so 70-some mW sounds reasonable, but is not really a bargain.
 
Toke said:
That host does not look able to fit more than the standard 5-200mW green module. If you want higher power you have to go to the next size in modules.

The photos of measuring on the site vary between 48 and 117mW, so 70-some mW sounds reasonable, but is not really a bargain.
Click to expand...


I've been tempted to buy the ones that claim "True " or "certified power" (some even invoking the name of the FDA) and they generally do cost a little more and are generally less powerful (makes sense now), but I found a 100mw for $36 that if accurate, might be a bargain...

So now I have to wonder, what would qualify as a bargain?

My Parameters are Green mW vs Price - in the $30-$50 price range...

I've ordered four more "bargains" :) - and I picked them kind of like how a chick picks a basketball team to go all the way in a tournament ="ooh I like their jersey!"

After I get all the modules together I'm hoping to be able to light up the ocean for some nice pictures that could probably just be photoshopped!

Ah well, Back to work...
cheers,
 
Toke said:
The modules in this store looks legit, and can provide a guideline* to what is possible.

Techhood items - Get great deals on 532nm Green Laser, Laser Device Accessories items on eBay Stores!

*Assorted web shops can likely get the modules with host at or below you retail price for just the module.
Click to expand...

Thanks, funny thing...I was actually going to buy a green module from this seller. Now I will have to wait until I replenish the laser fund :).

Another funny thing - and I hope this shows I'm evolving - for a while I wouldn't buy from China beccause I just didn't know how long it would take stuff to arrvie and didn't know anyone who had done it. But I take chances....small ones at first. Then larger...

I started with large stores that seemed like a safe bet and had positive reviews. Now I'm willing to do business with Chinese ebayers, but communication is a problem sometimes.

Right now for example, I've ordered two 808 nm diodes from two separate guys in hong kong. The first one was late so I asked seller#1 if there was a problem. He refunded my money right away though I wanted to wait. Then when a diode with no packing slip & a different name than both sellers arrived inbetween the zone for the second diode, I asked seller #1 if his name was the name on the envelope.
He didn't understand and is now asking for his money back..I'm trying to explain...
Any way, communication can be an issue...

Thanks, I think I will go with the guy you showed the link to..I've been checking him out for a few months now...

Cad602
 
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